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Auris High oil consumtion


unofon
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My Daughter in law has a 2011 auris 1.3 and uses about a ltr of oil per 1500 mls

as the oil is 0-20 could i use a slighty thicker oil ?

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My Daughter in law has a 2011 auris 1.3 and uses about a ltr of oil per 1500 mls
as the oil is 0-20 could i use a slighty thicker oil ?
First thing to do is check for leaks. And does she drive on motorway regularly?

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You can use thicker oil but it'll cost some mpg and performance; The engine is rated to be okay with 5W30 but like most newer petrol Toyotas, 0W20 is the recommended for optimal performance.

You might want to get her to rev it in neutral while stationary while you look at the exhaust to see if it's producing blue (oil) smoke just in case.

I do find mine burns more oil if I'm hitting the higher revs a lot, and I've been topping up the missing oil with 5W30 instead of 0W20.

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How many miles has the car done??

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There was a known fault with piston rings on Auris seizing up, and not wiping the oil back from cylinder walls, which in turn was then burned. But this was supposed to be fixed in models mid 2009 and newer. Using 5w30 should help remedy the issue.  

 

 

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I have a 2010 Auris which I've owned from new. The last two or three years have seen an increase in oil consumption, from not having to add any during the first years to needing a full litre per 5000 miles or so (give and take) to maintain the level at the same point.

I never knew or had confidence in what oil was being used when serviced. Although initially told it would be 0W20, when I asked during the first few years I was told it was 5W30 semi synthetic that had been put in. The last few years and I believe that 0W20 has been used although on my last service just two weeks ago (Gold service, and first outside of a 7 yr service plan) the invoice says 5W30 Full Synthetic.

I actually asked last year as to whether or not 5W30 or even 10W40 would be worthwhile and received a most definite NO. The 1.33L was to ALWAYS use 0W20. Which is at odds with what they actually used in the past and now present...

I researched in depth the question of oil grades a little while ago and concluded that the MPG savings 0W20 offered over a 5W30 would be in the 1% region. I'm actually quite happy if 5W30 is used, as for my needs and usage I suspect it would offer better protection than the 0W20 grade.

 

 

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"Oil consumption: Max. 1.0 L/1000 km (1.1 qt./600 miles, 0.9 Imp. qt./600
miles)
 If your vehicle consumes more than 1.0 L (1.1 qt., 0.9 Imp. qt.) every
1000 km (600 miles), contact any authorized Toyota dealer or repairer, or
another duly qualified and equipped professional."

And sadly, according to Toyota, the 1 litre/1500miles is considered acceptable.
 

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common problem for the 1.33 engine. You wont stop the oil burning by putting a thicker oil. Go to the garage and make them change all necessary engine parts.

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16 minutes ago, gpa said:

Go to the garage and make them change all necessary engine parts.

Easier said than done on  2011 Auris which would be outside the new car warranty and which hasn't attained the manufacturer's definition of high oil consumption. Even if it is covered by an extended warranty, would probably still be denied on the same basis.

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12 hours ago, gpa said:

common problem for the 1.33 engine. You wont stop the oil burning by putting a thicker oil. Go to the garage and make them change all necessary engine parts.

Do you have any reliable references for this ?

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What are the necessary engine parts? Piston rings?

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There is a Technical service bulletin from Toyota for oil consumption issues on 1.33 engines, repair under warranty would require an oil consumption check and for the consumption for be greater than 1.0lt/600miles.

Bulletin reference: EG-0095T-1112

Subject: NR Engine : Oil consumption

Depending on age and engine number the repairs include:

Modified rocker cover

Modified oil jets

Modified Pistons/rings

and 15 hours of workshop time.

If the car has full service history and the oil consumption is great enough contact your local dealer have the oil consumption confirmed and then ask them to approach Toyota to see if there is a warranty extension or goodwill available.

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Interesting there is a TSB for the issue. Thanks :)

At 8yrs old and using around 1L per 5000 miles I shan't pursue the issue but as always, it is interesting to read the ins and outs and what the problems are.  

(Swiping that bulletin into Bing brings up 12 pages on a Russian forum about the 1.33L and oil consumption)

 

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

I own a Toyota Auris 1.33 for over six months now. Since my purchase I noticed oil consumption to be fairly high. Yesterday on my way back from work "oil pressure low" alarm light start flashing up. Thought better check oil in engine and it was dry, tried several times but there was literally no oil left. How is it possible? I only drove 1500 miles since last full top up? There is no leakage and appears to be driving fine. 

I am very worried now. I have done a full top up now still noticing its consuming lots of oil. 

 

Please can anyone help or guide me what to do ?

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How much oil (in litres) did you put in for the last top up? How many miles has it done?

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18 minutes ago, FROSTYBALLS said:

How much oil (in litres) did you put in for the last top up? How many miles has it done?

My car has done 1800 miles since last service where 2.5 litre oil was top up if I am correct.They have again done half a bottle which is nearly 2.5 litre. 

 

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Geeez
Sounds like there is piston ring failer and motor needs to be stripped and rebuild.

Is there any smoke at all?

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12 minutes ago, Motheo said:

Geeez
Sounds like there is piston ring failer and motor needs to be stripped and rebuild.

Is there any smoke at all?

Sent from my SM-A500F using Tapatalk
 

i am sorry I think it didn't read your question properly. Car has done 94 k miles in total and since last service when oil was top up it has done 1800 miles and it consumed all during those 1800 miles. 

There is no smoke and I have frequently done long miles. No oil leakage and it drives smooth,

 

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Try using heavier grade oil, for example 5W30, it might help reduce the oil consumption.

As for the oil consumption, there was a known issue with piston rings getting stuck and not wiping the oil on downwards stroke on the cylinder, which in turn got burned, so that's how the car lost it's oil.

People with such problems reported same consumption like you have, so it's most likely you have this issue.

If you drove with dry motor already, maybe a new used engine would be better solution to rebuilding the one you have now.

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I was just working out my oil consumption this morning. Around 1400 miles covered since last service (which this time was done by an independent) and where I specified that I wanted 5W-30 using, as much as anything to see if it had any impact on oil usage. Castrol Magnetec full synthetic was used and I see its now around half way between min and max. I've had to add oil for the last 3 years or so, usually with a litre just about covering my annual mileage. Much of this 1400 miles has been at fairly high speed however. On balance I would say the 5W 30 has made no difference consumption wise, but I still feel it runs more smoothly with this compared to the 0W 20. That's a lasting impression since it was serviced. Mileage just turned 60k this week.   

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Tamur,

This type of engine up to 2013 production has manufacturing defect - wrong designed pistons with too tiny piston rings and holes which causes oil burning instead of returning back (you can find TSB in russian language). Since 2013 there is a new modified pistons type on the market with wider piston rings. Toyota knows about this problem but doing nothing officialy to remedy. I am afraid you have only 2 very expensive options. Go to Toyota and they probably offer you to replace the the whole engine block or you find garage, which dismantle and inspect engine damage, replace piston for a new type. Are you sure that engine not smoking? Try to drive long downhill with gear and without gas pedal pushing (oil is accumulating in consumption chamber) and then push gas pedal to maximum and check blue smoke behind the car (oil is burning).

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  • 3 months later...
On 5/15/2019 at 10:02 AM, Karakal said:

Hello Tamur,

This type of engine up to 2013 production has manufacturing defect - wrong designed pistons with too tiny piston rings and holes which causes oil burning instead of returning back (you can find TSB in russian language). Since 2013 there is a new modified pistons type on the market with wider piston rings. Toyota knows about this problem but doing nothing officialy to remedy. I am afraid you have only 2 very expensive options. Go to Toyota and they probably offer you to replace the the whole engine block or you find garage, which dismantle and inspect engine damage, replace piston for a new type. Are you sure that engine not smoking? Try to drive long downhill with gear and without gas pedal pushing (oil is accumulating in consumption chamber) and then push gas pedal to maximum and check blue smoke behind the car (oil is burning).

Many thanks for your detailed response. 

There is absolutely no smoke coming out but just engine using too much oil. Yesterday whilst making a short journey to grocery shop I noticed engine alarm light "oil pressure low" as I forgot to check engine oil over 2 weeks and only made 10 miles journey back and forth to workplace only.- literally there was no oil left. I have been to Toyota Garage but they would not help as I bought a car secondhand (cannot afford it honestly) - I have checked with couple of garages but they would not help because its a big job for them and they aint sure either. I am left in a difficult situation as the car drives absolutely fine but just this engine oil consumption issue. :(

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I have a Toyota Auris 2009 and having exactly the same problem. What I noticed is oil stick gives different levels when engine is not running which further confuses me. I have lost count how many times I have topped up in the past one month now. The car is burning too much of engine oil and I am not even doing long journeys.

 

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Always check the level after the engine has been stopped for at least 10 minutes and be sure to wipe the dipstick clean/dry before re-inserting to do a final reading. The level indicated will/may vary depending which side of the stick you read so be sure to read the correct side. One side should be definite and clear, the other smeared. I'd need one in front of me to say exactly which is which but it should be apparent when checking.

Also always check with the car in the same location as even a slight tilt or camber can alter the reading.

How many miles have you done out of interest?  

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