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Yaris mk1 1.4 D4D advice needed


Nick7
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With regarding the noise, I agree with the other folk, a wheel bearing, I had similar symptoms and narrowed it down to an o/s rear, got the wheel off the ground and spun it, what a rumble it had. A straight forward change with a new unit(comes complete with hub and ABS sensor) for about £30 and let there be peace.

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Quick update guys as I'd like to keep this thread going until everything is resolved hopefully.

A local mechanic looked at it and it turns out its the o/s front wheel bearing. The other front one is also apparently on way out along with one of the rear ones?

I am not a mechanic myself nor do I have the experience, tools, ramp etc to do the job myself. I just want an efficient quiet reliable and economical car to run going forward.

I was quoted £200 to replace the two front ones with poem (not original Toyota) parts. Then hopefully I will get the two rear ones replaced in a few months/when the start getting noisy.

Also in regards to the engine light (glow plug error Circuit "A") I've decided to leave it for now as it seems to be starting fine and get them replaced closer to winter.

The final issue is the front window not coming down. The seller told me its was a small job needing some glue on the clips which hold the bottom of the window glass but my mechanic told me it needs a new window regulator. He says the part is around £80 and fitted I'm probably looking at £150 so I told him to leave it as I cannot afford any more than getting the front bearings replace atm.

Do you think this is reasonable?

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18 hours ago, BigBudda said:

With regarding the noise, I agree with the other folk, a wheel bearing, I had similar symptoms and narrowed it down to an o/s rear, got the wheel off the ground and spun it, what a rumble it had. A straight forward change with a new unit(comes complete with hub and ABS sensor) for about £30 and let there be peace.

Thanks for your reply mate. If only I could fit them myself they would be a lot cheaper to replace and I would have done all 4 and replaced all 4 glow plus with NGK ones. But I do not have any experience in DIY or the tools etc.

However, if you have any maintenance tips to keep the car tip top I'd be interested to hear them.

Regards.

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I think ur mechanic is pretty expensive. About £35 tops for each front wheel bearing, having just replaced one in the Rav, non genuine. And say three hours for fitting both - tops, £60. Window regulator £50 used part (ebay) and an hour to fit £70 all in. £200 total is what i'd expect to pay here.  I spose everything is more expensive in ur neck of the woods. But price and locate the parts urself and get another quote for fitting them. Still think ur mechanic is steep. A window regulator is an hour to fit, tops. Have done it myself a few times, and i'm no mechanic. £70 to fit that is robbery. If u had a reasonably priced mechanic u cud get the heater plugs changed as well.

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A window regulator will take more than an hour to fix if the holding plastic is broken.  The glass has to be claened of old glue and anew one glued in and left to set..  And a second hand regulator has the same issues.

Been there ,done it

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I changed regulator's on a carina front window once and two avensis's rear window's a few times and a Honda accord front window. I never had to glue anything so no prob there and job took an hour or so, never heard of window needing glued before tho . The mechanic said he needed a regulator so an hour fits it.

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Hi 

Just to let you know I have a 2003 Jap built 5 door it has just got to 244,000 miles.

Have done the head gasket recently and glow plugs. Apart from that just servicing and anti roll bar bushes.

Excellent cars and engine I am an ex Toyota mechanic.

I have 4 d4d Yaris's in the family that I look after. Jap and french built and I notice the difference between the two.

Enjoy

 

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On 04/04/2018 at 6:58 PM, Ant-Rav said:

I think ur mechanic is pretty expensive. About £35 tops for each front wheel bearing, having just replaced one in the Rav, non genuine. And say three hours for fitting both - tops, £60. Window regulator £50 used part (ebay) and an hour to fit £70 all in. £200 total is what i'd expect to pay here.  I spose everything is more expensive in ur neck of the woods. But price and locate the parts urself and get another quote for fitting them. Still think ur mechanic is steep. A window regulator is an hour to fit, tops. Have done it myself a few times, and i'm no mechanic. £70 to fit that is robbery. If u had a reasonably priced mechanic u cud get the heater plugs changed as well.

Hello mate thanks for your reply. I thought £200 was slightly steep but since the noise was ****** me off and since they had it on the ramp I agreed to do it. They told me it took longer than expected to press the two front bearings out and replace them (remember reading somewhere that the bearings are harder than usual to press out of the hubs in the mk1 yaris'?)

I'm based in the midlands but in regards to your pricing calculations it seems like you have factored in £20 p/h for labour? I would love to know which mechanic would be happy to work for that much? Seems slightly cheap for labour (what is the going rate for mechanic labour outside London?)

the mechanic I used only agreed to £200 since I agreed to pay cash and no reciept btw. I asked him if it would have been cheaper if I'd sourced the parts myself and he replied that it would only have been around £5 cheaper per bearing if I ordered myself as they get it delivered within the hour. Labour would have been the same?

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On 07/04/2018 at 9:30 PM, greasemonkeykl said:

Hi 

Just to let you know I have a 2003 Jap built 5 door it has just got to 244,000 miles.

Have done the head gasket recently and glow plugs. Apart from that just servicing and anti roll bar bushes.

Excellent cars and engine I am an ex Toyota mechanic.

I have 4 d4d Yaris's in the family that I look after. Jap and french built and I notice the difference between the two.

Enjoy

 

Hello mate thanks for your reply. Would love to know how u maintened it to get that mileage from it. Mine is a Japanese model also. Would be interested to know what the differences are which you have noticed between the jap and French built mk1 d4d models in your experience since you have had experience with both? 

Also what brand of glow plugs do you recommend and how much should I be looking to get them fitted?

My key is also not very responsive I have to press the lock/unlock buttons very hard to get them to work? Especially the unlock button. Any ideas. 

The front wipers are slightly noisy would love to know which ones you would recommend and which sizes for quietness/effectiveness. Have been looking at some retro fit  front and rear ones at Halfords/eBay. 

Finally, which brand of diesel do you recommend for best performance/fuel efficiency/engine longevity/quietness? I haven't filled it up yet? Usually use supermarket petrol but want to put the right stuff in this to look after it and get the most out of it. 

Regards. 

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On 03/04/2018 at 10:55 PM, BigBudda said:

With regarding the noise, I agree with the other folk, a wheel bearing, I had similar symptoms and narrowed it down to an o/s rear, got the wheel off the ground and spun it, what a rumble it had. A straight forward change with a new unit(comes complete with hub and ABS sensor) for about £30 and let there be peace.

Hello mate apparently one of my rear ones is slightly loose. Any links to where you got the part for £30 and how much do I need to be looking at paying a mechanic to fit it?

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On 27/03/2018 at 11:54 AM, Madasafish said:

You need a special sealant to bond glass together. I repaired Yaris front window  after it stopped working .. see http://tinyurl.com/yad2fa8t

 

Hum over 40 mph.. sounds like a wheel bearing.

I'm getting too old to repair cars:-)

 

Hello mate just tried the link but listing not active. Any idea which sealant I require?

I may attempt to fix this myself (if it is possible by just unscrewing the door card and sealing the bottom of the glass onto the clips?) as the rest of the window mechanism seems to be working fine - the electrics/motor work fine it's just that the clips which hold the bottom of the window in place have come loose from the bottom of the window meaning that when I push the window down button the clips go down without the glass, then the glass just drops down wonky. Then to close it I have to manually slide up the window and hold it in place while I press the window up button till it locks the glass into place fully shut. 

The guy at the garage quoted me around £150 saying it needed a new window regulator. I refused due to the cost. I'm sure that the bottom of the window glass just needs to be secured back onto the clips solidly somehow. I did some research and apparently it's the position of the stock speaker in the door of these mk1 yaris' brushing against the bottom of the window glass every time the window is fully down, dislodging it over time?

 

 

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23 minutes ago, Nick7 said:

Hello mate apparently one of my rear ones is slightly loose. Any links to where you got the part for £30 and how much do I need to be looking at paying a mechanic to fit it?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-YARIS-Mk1-1-0-1-3-1-5-REAR-WHEEL-BEARING-HUB-ABS-SENSOR-1999-2005-NEW/171248077419?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 

Hi, please see the above link, the rear bearing came from eBay, this is the ABS type, for £28.60 I'm guessing you have ABS on your Yaris with the age it is. You are probably looking tops at an hours labour, start to finish unless you are unlucky like I was, the shocking of removing the old bearing unit made the brake shoe linings come unstuck from the shoes, they must have been very old, oh well, new brake shoes it was then.  

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3 hours ago, Nick7 said:

Hello mate thanks for your reply. I thought £200 was slightly steep but since the noise was ****** me off and since they had it on the ramp I agreed to do it. They told me it took longer than expected to press the two front bearings out and replace them (remember reading somewhere that the bearings are harder than usual to press out of the hubs in the mk1 yaris'?)

I'm based in the midlands but in regards to your pricing calculations it seems like you have factored in £20 p/h for labour? I would love to know which mechanic would be happy to work for that much? Seems slightly cheap for labour (what is the going rate for mechanic labour outside London?)

the mechanic I used only agreed to £200 since I agreed to pay cash and no reciept btw. I asked him if it would have been cheaper if I'd sourced the parts myself and he replied that it would only have been around £5 cheaper per bearing if I ordered myself as they get it delivered within the hour. Labour would have been the same?

Yeah, where I live mechanics I know are about that an hour, Was thinking it wud be a lot more expensive where ur from,

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3 hours ago, Nick7 said:

Hello mate thanks for your reply. Would love to know how u maintened it to get that mileage from it. Mine is a Japanese model also. Would be interested to know what the differences are which you have noticed between the jap and French built mk1 d4d models in your experience since you have had experience with both? 

Also what brand of glow plugs do you recommend and how much should I be looking to get them fitted?

My key is also not very responsive I have to press the lock/unlock buttons very hard to get them to work? Especially the unlock button. Any ideas. 

The front wipers are slightly noisy would love to know which ones you would recommend and which sizes for quietness/effectiveness. Have been looking at some retro fit  front and rear ones at Halfords/eBay. 

Finally, which brand of diesel do you recommend for best performance/fuel efficiency/engine longevity/quietness? I haven't filled it up yet? Usually use supermarket petrol but want to put the right stuff in this to look after it and get the most out of it. 

Regards. 

When I got the car it had 220,000 miles with full service history. It had been parked up for a year because it was southern Ireland registered. I registered it with Dvla and have had it on the road 3 years now.

Most of the differences I have noticed are trim parts they look the same but are different. I am always comparing the two as my mum and brother have French built one's 80,000 and 170,000 miles which he has had from new and me and my dad have Jap built 244,000 and 105,000 miles. Denso parts are usually used on Japanese built and Bosch on French built.

Glow plugs I normally use are Denso which you can get from motor factors I use mpd. These are oem parts. But I used NGK this time. Not sure how much on fitting as I have always done my own work. About a half hour job as long as they come out. I have had  a few experiences with them breaking.

The remote buttons break on the solder joint or it could be the button itself both easy jobs if your handy with a soldering iron. I have repaired a few now. You can buy repair kits on eBay.

Wipers I tend to use Bosch or Denso blades but I couldn't get a replacement for the rear so just replaced the rubber which is available on its own from Toyota.

Fuel wise I have only ever used supermarket fuel and have never had a problem.

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Wheel bearings I have had problems with cheap ones. Fitted two new rear ones when I first got mine on the road.

The following year had loads of play after 3000 miles. Had them changed under warranty and fitted new same make and they had more play than the old one.

Now I use blueprint parts and never had a problem.

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17 hours ago, Ant-Rav said:

Yeah, where I live mechanics I know are about that an hour, Was thinking it wud be a lot more expensive where ur from,

I'm in the midlands mate where are you from? I assumed you thought I was based in London. Shouldn't think there would be much difference between mechanic labour rates from here to any other part of the uk (excluding London)?

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On 03/04/2018 at 10:55 PM, BigBudda said:

With regarding the noise, I agree with the other folk, a wheel bearing, I had similar symptoms and narrowed it down to an o/s rear, got the wheel off the ground and spun it, what a rumble it had. A straight forward change with a new unit(comes complete with hub and ABS sensor) for about £30 and let there be peace.

Hello mate apparently one of my rear ones is starting to go, not making much noise atm but for future reference do you have a link for the part and how much should I be looking at to get it replaced?

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My mk1 d4d is not blowing cold air out of the ac when is switched on? Any ideas fellas? Would be much appreciated.

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Probably need to get the system checked for refrigerant leaks, and, if no leaks are apparent, then get the system re-gassed.

Air con needs to be used throughout the year (ie. at least once a week) to ensure the seals stay lubricated and prevent escape of gas. Air con used with the heater makes for faster demisting than using just the fan alone.

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On ‎19‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 1:45 PM, Nick7 said:

Hello mate apparently one of my rear ones is starting to go, not making much noise atm but for future reference do you have a link for the part and how much should I be looking at to get it replaced?

Hi, scroll back on this discussion slightly and the info you are asking for is there. Also greasemonkeykl has mentioned he has used blueprint parts without any problems.

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On ‎19‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 1:45 PM, Nick7 said:

My mk1 d4d is not blowing cold air out of the ac when is switched on? Any ideas fellas? Would be much appreciated.

Maybe if not requiring a re gas etc, as already mentioned, part of the AC system is a compressor normally driven by the engine drive belt. The compressor drive pulley, also an electrode magnet clutch will be turning all the time whilst the engine is running but the centre of the pulley does not until the AC is turned on and the centre of the drive pulley (the electro magnet clutch) should start turning to, a good simple visual check. If not, maybe the AC fuse has blown and the electro magnet clutch is not engaging. 

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front drivers window sits in the regulator and is held in by 2 bolts IIRC

From the sounds of it the fixing points that attach to the regulator have come off the glass...if you have glass cover on your insurance, worth making a claim, that or swing around autoglass if you have a depot nearby and ask them / another car glaziers.

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On 3/23/2018 at 8:59 PM, Nick7 said:

Hello guys new member of the forum here. 

I'm interested in buying a Toyota 1.4 d4d mk1 Yaris as my next car. I want a black 5 dr mk1 ideally with T-Spirit trim. 

Basically I'm in need of some advice. I have found one which I like the look of :- 

Yaris T-Spirit mk1 2005 

86k miles 

4 previous owners (seller is the 4th owner)

5dr

MOT till next year,  March 2019 (there were no advisories on the MOT just done)

 

He had it on for £1600 but I offered him £1400 which he agreed to immediately which made me slightly suspicious. 

I haven't done a HPI check myself but I'm inclined to believe him but I will do a check myself to make sure if i decide to buy it.  He says the HPI is all clear since he bought it, And he sent me a pic of the paperwork from 2016 when he bought it and the HPI on that is showing all clear. 

I'm interested in but it seems to have some issues which the seller has told me about. 

  1. The car engine management light is on. The seller has connected an OBD reader and the error code showing is P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A". - he says he has a new glow plug but hasn't had time to put it in and says if the car doesn't sell this week he will fit it himself and fox the issue with the window and list it at a higher price. 
  2. Driver side window, The window glass came off two weeks ago, need new glue on window clips, which he says is a small job. 

The main issue I'm concerned about is obviously the glow plug error. If I were to buy the car as is I would buy a set of 4 NGK glow plugs (£60) and replace them all at the same time however if the glow plugs havent been replaced before and are rusted/seized then there's a chance they could break in the cylinder head causing a major issue to remove them (been quoted around 400 if this is the issue as part of the engine will need to be removed to get the glow plug out etc?) also even if the glow plugs come out and I replace them easily I would still need to go to an auto spark to clear the daily and I'm led to believe it could still be a wiring issue causing the error which would be another issue entirely. 

I'm going to view the vehicle tomorrow and would like some advice as to :-

Whether it's worth £1400

Whether it's worth taking the risk on it with the glow plug issue

Whether the front window issue is a common fault and fixed easily

Best way to know if the engine/timing chain still has plenty of mileage left - signs to look out for when I start it etc ( my last car a vw polos timing chain went at 98k miles after I only got 1.5k miles out of it so I don't want this issue again)

Other common faults/issues with this model and a car this age. 

All advice appreciated and thanks. 

I ran my Mk 1 yaris D4d to 146000 miles before moving it on

I had a glowplug causing a EML light on which could not be removed and was quoted £500 for the head to be taken off to remove the glow plug , at the time it passed the MOTs with the EML on but from May this year it would be a fail I believe 

I had window drop off and found a clip was broken

This was a easy repair as I done it myself

 

I found the MK  1 Yaris D4D to be a fantastic car but would now be wary of the glowplug issue at the price he is asking

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25 minutes ago, stevecrvn said:

I ran my Mk 1 yaris D4d to 146000 miles before moving it on

I had a glowplug causing a EML light on which could not be removed and was quoted £500 for the head to be taken off to remove the glow plug , at the time it passed the MOTs with the EML on but from May this year it would be a fail I believe 

I had window drop off and found a clip was broken

This was a easy repair as I done it myself

 

I found the MK  1 Yaris D4D to be a fantastic car but would now be wary of the glowplug issue at the price he is asking

Hello mate. Bought the car for £1300 after the original post had it a month or so. Needed the two front wheel bearings replaced which was £200 so total so far is £1500. 

Reharding the window issue, I still haven't taken off the door card to have a look at it myself but I read your post and not sure id be able to drill holes into it for a fix. According to the seller, the clip was broken like yours but he apparently replaced the plastic clip but he didn't mention any bolts holding the window to the clip. He said the window was secured to the clip using glue? But he apparently used the wrong type of glue so it came loose again? Did you do the repair byjust unscrewing the door card? Or did you need to unbolt the metal panel behind it also. In addition, was yours a jap or French built model? As maybe the windows are secured to the clips differently on the French built ones?

In regards to the glow plug issue the light is still on after it was cleared by an OBD reader for a while. Replacement NGK glow plugs should be around £60 for 4 and I'd like to get them all replaced at once  it shouldn't cost more than around £60 again to fit them but that is assuming the haven't siezed in the engine. If they have then it will obviously the engine to come out which would be a lot more costly. I'm looking to get them hopefully replaced before this winter.

 

 

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