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Nick7

Yaris mk1 1.4 D4D advice needed

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On 20/04/2018 at 9:13 PM, BigBudda said:

Maybe if not requiring a re gas etc, as already mentioned, part of the AC system is a compressor normally driven by the engine drive belt. The compressor drive pulley, also an electrode magnet clutch will be turning all the time whilst the engine is running but the centre of the pulley does not until the AC is turned on and the centre of the drive pulley (the electro magnet clutch) should start turning to, a good simple visual check. If not, maybe the AC fuse has blown and the electro magnet clutch is not engaging. 

Probably the gas needs replacing mate but I've been told that garage have to make sure it's just the gas before they refill it anyway. Might just leave it as it won't be used much with the weather in the UK anyways. Don't really want to spend much on this unless I need to tbh. 

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On 19/04/2018 at 1:55 PM, FROSTYBALLS said:

Probably need to get the system checked for refrigerant leaks, and, if no leaks are apparent, then get the system re-gassed.

Air con needs to be used throughout the year (ie. at least once a week) to ensure the seals stay lubricated and prevent escape of gas. Air con used with the heater makes for faster demisting than using just the fan alone.

Yes mate it seems this is the situation. Ac needs to be used regularly which perhaps this wasn't. In any case, I'm debating whether it's worth getting it resolved anyway tbh the front window is more important to myself atm.

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Thanks for the replies fellas. One more slight issue has arisen:-

my cigarette lighter connection works but seems to be loose  so when I put something into it such as an bluetooth FM transmitter, it wobbles. Any ideas?

 

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3 minutes ago, Nick7 said:

Hello mate. Bought the car for £1300 after the original post had it a month or so. Needed the two front wheel bearings replaced which was £200 so total so far is £1500. 

Reharding the window issue, I still haven't taken off the door card to have a look at it myself but I read your post and not sure id be able to drill holes into it for a fix. According to the seller, the clip was broken like yours but he apparently replaced the plastic clip but he didn't mention any bolts holding the window to the clip. He said the window was secured to the clip using glue? But he apparently used the wrong type of glue so it came loose again? Did you do the repair byjust unscrewing the door card? Or did you need to unbolt the metal panel behind it also. In addition, was yours a jap or French built model? As maybe the windows are secured to the clips differently on the French built ones?

In regards to the glow plug issue the light is still on after it was cleared by an OBD reader for a while. Replacement NGK glow plugs should be around £60 for 4 and I'd like to get them all replaced at once  it shouldn't cost more than around £60 again to fit them but that is assuming the haven't siezed in the engine. If they have then it will obviously the engine to come out which would be a lot more costly. I'm looking to get them hopefully replaced before this winter.

 

 

The window runner is attached to the glass via a plastic plate , This has cracked causing the glue to be loose . The clip is held on the runner by a bolt which I removed and then drilled the plastic bracket and fitted another nut and bolt which in effect clamped the plastic to the glass and then refited the bolt fixing the plastic bracket to the window runner . I did take some photos at the time but now cannot find them sorry

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4 minutes ago, stevecrvn said:

The window runner is attached to the glass via a plastic plate , This has cracked causing the glue to be loose . The clip is held on the runner by a bolt which I removed and then drilled the plastic bracket and fitted another nut and bolt which in effect clamped the plastic to the glass and then refited the bolt fixing the plastic bracket to the window runner . I did take some photos at the time but now cannot find them sorry

Ok mate no probs photos would have been good but thanks anyway. 

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When I got the car it had 220,000 miles with full service history. It had been parked up for a year because it was southern Ireland registered. I registered it with Dvla and have had it on the road 3 years now.
Most of the differences I have noticed are trim parts they look the same but are different. I am always comparing the two as my mum and brother have French built one's 80,000 and 170,000 miles which he has had from new and me and my dad have Jap built 244,000 and 105,000 miles. Denso parts are usually used on Japanese built and Bosch on French built.
Glow plugs I normally use are Denso which you can get from motor factors I use mpd. These are oem parts. But I used NGK this time. Not sure how much on fitting as I have always done my own work. About a half hour job as long as they come out. I have had  a few experiences with them breaking.
The remote buttons break on the solder joint or it could be the button itself both easy jobs if your handy with a soldering iron. I have repaired a few now. You can buy repair kits on ebay.
Wipers I tend to use Bosch or Denso blades but I couldn't get a replacement for the rear so just replaced the rubber which is available on its own from Toyota.
Fuel wise I have only ever used supermarket fuel and have never had a problem.
Can you please tell what type of engine Oil you use? Thank you

Sent from my MI MAX 2 using Tapatalk

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I use fuchs 10w 40 fully

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I use fuchs 10w 40 fully
Thank you a lot? Did you mention this one "FUCHS TITAN RACE PRO R 10W40"



Sent from my MI MAX 2 using Tapatalk

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Hello fellas, just a quick update:-

1st issue:- Went to get the glow plugs replaced today from a local garage who agreed to fit them for £20.  The error code I was getting was P0380 "Heater Circuit A". So i bought 4x NGK glow plugs from eBay as I wanted to replace the complete set all at the same time and took them to the mechanics.  I asked them not to force any out and if they thought there was a chance they could snap whilst unscrewing to leave them in.

They managed to get the first 2 (from left to right) out and replaced but they didn't think the 3rd and 4th one would come out without snapping so they just left them in as I requested and is prudent imo. They then cleared the engine management light but only time will tell whether it stays off or not. Will update the thread in a few days.

If the eml comes back on with the same error code, I have no choice but to leave it or keep wiping it with an obd2 reader. From my perspective it was worth a try to do the proper thing and replace all 4 but clearly was not to be. I will take the mechanics word for it and not take the risk to replace the other 2 going forward because I don't have a spare £500 to get they drilled out should they snap. However, I'm glad they got the first 2 out as that is apparently Bay A which may match up with the error code? I now have 2 spare NGK glow plugs (part Y-542J) for the mk1 d4d if anyone needs one lol.

2nd issue:- was the driver side electric window which had come loose from the plastic clips and was not coming down with the regulator. Informed the mechanic about a fix which stevecrvn mentioned which  was to drill a hole in the plastic clip and use an m6 bolt and 2 washers to secure the clips to the glass. He had a look but said that would not work without drilling through the glass? They tole me the actual regulator in this model is very flimsy and had bent over time and the glue which holds the clip onto the window had come loose. The tried to straighten out the twisted metal window mechanism and used some strong glue to try and reattach the clips to the glass. They told me to leave it for at least 24 hours which I will do and hopefully it will do the trick but they could provide no guarantees. They advise if the glue comes loose, to go to the local scrapyard and buy another front window from another mk1 5dr yaris which still has the clips properly glued on and replace my current window. Charged me £5 for this fix will update this thread in a few days whether it works or not.

I also asked the mechanic to have a look around the car for any other potential issues which may need to be addressed including one of the rear wheel bearings which was highlighted when the front 2 were replaced just after i bought the car. They advised that the driver side rear wheel bearing needs to be replaced as there is a lot of play on it and it is very noisy. Said he would fit it for £40.

Also advised that both front brake pads are very thin and advised to replace both front discs along with the pads. Said he would fit both front ones for £20.

So now I need to source the parts .......

 

With this, I have a some more questions for the forum:-

Question 1 -  Do I need a rear wheel bearing kit with ABS sensors included with the hub assembly i.e. 171248077419&sojTags=bu=buhttps://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m43.l1123/7?euid=9dbcdbc0e5234093a1e0838bbb6c32db&bu=43421548048&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F171248077419&sojTags=bu=bu

171248077419&sojTags=bu=bu171248077419&sojTags=bu=buor without the ABS sensor? Not sure if my model has ABS fitted or not? Would appreciate if anyone could link the correct part or let me know what I require?

Question 2 - I plan on buying a front brake pad and disc kit (2 x front pads and 2 x front discs). Mine is a Japanese built model which apparently needs 235mm discs as opposed to 255mm discs? i.e. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m43.l1123/7?euid=3daaffb41c324756b5e7c7102177d7de&bu=43421548048&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F111838621706&sojTags=bu=bu

Mintex ones seem to be readily available at an acceptable price. Is it a good make?

also just wondered why the mechanic advised me to replace disc aswell as pads? is it even necessary for me to replace the discs or is this just an additional expense (pads on their own are much cheaper)? Would anyone be able to recommend a good brand which is close to factory fitted spec?

 

Finally, the mechanic (old school mechanic) advised me to use a product called Diesel Magic by Comma to clean out my engine? Advised me to put a bottle in when there is only a small amount of diesel (i.e. a quarter tank or less) and drive it for around 15 miles afterwards before filling up again. Does anyone have experience with this product in the model and is it advisable?

Regards.

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Hi, question 1, I would imagine your Yaris will have ABS, if it has, you should see a yellow ABS light come up on the dashboard when turning the ignition on,(if the bulb has not blown) it should stay on for a few seconds then go out. If it does not go out, there is a fault with the ABS system. Another check, see if there is wiring with a plug going in to the rear of the  hub. The ebay link you put on is for an ABS fitted vehicle, I had a unit from that ebayer and have not had a problem to date.

Question 2, I to would change the discs as well as the pads for what they cost, discs generally have a minimum wear thickness on them, I do believe it is no less than 16mm on the Yaris, any less than 16mm, best to change otherwise they can end up splitting/cracking/falling apart plus they tend to have a nice edge on the edge of the disc by this stage. Mintex is as good as any, see if you have a Euro car parts near you, I've always found them OK for all types of parts plus at weekends they tend to have some decent discount offers.

The last bit, never done it, probably a waste of money, just use a good fuel and regular Oil changes.  

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5 minutes ago, BigBudda said:

Hi, question 1, I would imagine your Yaris will have ABS, if it has, you should see a yellow ABS light come up on the dashboard when turning the ignition on,(if the bulb has not blown) it should stay on for a few seconds then go out. If it does not go out, there is a fault with the ABS system. Another check, see if there is wiring with a plug going in to the rear of the  hub. The ebay link you put on is for an ABS fitted vehicle, I had a unit from that ebayer and have not had a problem to date.

Question 2, I to would change the discs as well as the pads for what they cost, discs generally have a minimum wear thickness on them, I do believe it is no less than 16mm on the Yaris, any less than 16mm, best to change otherwise they can end up splitting/cracking/falling apart plus they tend to have a nice edge on the edge of the disc by this stage. Mintex is as good as any, see if you have a Euro car parts near you, I've always found them OK for all types of parts plus at weekends they tend to have some decent discount offers.

The last bit, never done it, probably a waste of money, just use a good fuel and regular oil changes.  

Nice one for your reply. 

In terms of the ABS, I'm pretty sure that my model has it (although I will look out for the light before ordering) as it is a T-Spirit model and my research suggests that this trim was fitted with ABS as standard in the MK1s. Also rang Toyota who advised me the OEM part number is 42450-52021 for my model based on reg. In terms of the eBay listing, I may now go for the model I posted posted (£27) which you have also fitted since you have had no issues with it - thanks for letting me know. I was considering an equivalent comline part for £10 more but I'll probably go for the cheaper on I posted now. Just out of interested how many miles have you done since you fitted this part?

The part does not include a wire for the ABS sensor but I assume the existing wire will just be plugged into the new hub?

 

In terms of the discs and pads, after much research I've determined which discs/pads I require for the front. It seems that it all depends on whether the model has discs or drums on the rear, not just where it was built. According to this I've determined I require the following part number :-

Mintex MDK0213 - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202175137077

This set apparently includes 2x brand new discs and 2x sets of brake pads which should be all that's required to replace both at the front? - best price I could find is £41 for this set.

In terms of the window, the fix the mechanic tried (regluing glass onto clips) did not acually work so I will now have to try stevecrvn's fix  of drilling a hole in the plastic clip or otherwise someone on fb mentioned cable ties so may try that. Otherwise I'll have to go to the local scrapyard for a new glass from a 5dr yaris mk1 with the clips still glued on solid and get that fitted onto the regulator.  Still disappointed that I'm even having this issue with a model assembled in Japan? Apparently the metal on the regulator is very flimsy on these. I need to fix this issue soon as it's annoying not be able to use the window in this heat.

In terms of the glowplug error, both glowplugs in 'Bank A' (first 2 left to right) were replaced with brand new NGK ones, the other 2 Beru ones would not come out easily so we're left in. Touch wood though this seems to have done the trick. The eml has stayed off since.

And regarding the diesel magic, I was advised to put it in when there was only a small amount of diesel in the tank (I.e 1/4 tank) and then run it for 15 miles or so and then refill when necessary. I bought a bottle to try it as it was only £7 from Halfords. Have driven around 15 miles since and it hasn't dint any harm tbh but will let the engine run down to one bar before refilling to get as much of it into the system.

Will update the thread as to whether there has been any noticeable improvement to the fuel efficiency.

Also just wondered which Oil you use to service? Mines done 90k I'm thinking 5w30 fully synthetic maybe Mobil 1 or Castrol? Unless you could recommend a brand?

Regards. 

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Hi

ABS, the wiring/plug on the car, will unplug from old and plug into your new hub/bearing. Done just over 1000 miles, checked it yesterday funny enough, all is good as well. Also I'm needing to do my discs and pads this week.

Interesting info about the glow plugs

Oil, my Yaris has also done 90K, I use a Total 5/30,

All the best

 

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29 minutes ago, BigBudda said:

Hi

ABS, the wiring/plug on the car, will unplug from old and plug into your new hub/bearing. Done just over 1000 miles, checked it yesterday funny enough, all is good as well. Also I'm needing to do my discs and pads this week.

Interesting info about the glow plugs

Oil, my Yaris has also done 90K, I use a Total 5/30,

All the best

 

Ok mate nice one. Is this the Oil you use :- https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F361430280535 

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On 6/13/2018 at 4:42 PM, Nick7 said:

Hello fellas, just a quick update:-

1st issue:- Went to get the glow plugs replaced today from a local garage who agreed to fit them for £20.  The error code I was getting was P0380 "Heater Circuit A". So i bought 4x NGK glow plugs from eBay as I wanted to replace the complete set all at the same time and took them to the mechanics.  I asked them not to force any out and if they thought there was a chance they could snap whilst unscrewing to leave them in.

They managed to get the first 2 (from left to right) out and replaced but they didn't think the 3rd and 4th one would come out without snapping so they just left them in as I requested and is prudent imo. They then cleared the engine management light but only time will tell whether it stays off or not. Will update the thread in a few days.

If the eml comes back on with the same error code, I have no choice but to leave it or keep wiping it with an obd2 reader. From my perspective it was worth a try to do the proper thing and replace all 4 but clearly was not to be. I will take the mechanics word for it and not take the risk to replace the other 2 going forward because I don't have a spare £500 to get they drilled out should they snap. However, I'm glad they got the first 2 out as that is apparently Bay A which may match up with the error code? I now have 2 spare NGK glow plugs (part Y-542J) for the mk1 d4d if anyone needs one lol.

 

What I was always told was penetrating spray, warm the engine up till its hot, more penetrating spray and work the glowplug back and forth - slight tighten, loosen, retighten at first sign of glowplug becoming more difficult to turn, copiously applying penetrant each time you switched direction, essentially slow and steady wins the day...I spent over an hour removing a glowplug from a Saab and another hour removing the one next to it - steel glowplug and an aluminium head are prime candidates for galvanic corrosion and something akin to friction welding.

Threads of the new glowplug should be copper greased to prevent this happening again - Beru for a while recommended that their glowplugs be installed without copper grease but changed their tune after a lot of glowplugs were snapped by mechanics on piecework rates....i.e. forcing matters....

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On 6/17/2018 at 1:31 AM, MrFuzzy said:

What I was always told was penetrating spray, warm the engine up till its hot, more penetrating spray and work the glowplug back and forth - slight tighten, loosen, retighten at first sign of glowplug becoming more difficult to turn, copiously applying penetrant each time you switched direction, essentially slow and steady wins the day...I spent over an hour removing a glowplug from a Saab and another hour removing the one next to it - steel glowplug and an aluminium head are prime candidates for galvanic corrosion and something akin to friction welding.

Threads of the new glowplug should be copper greased to prevent this happening again - Beru for a while recommended that their glowplugs be installed without copper grease but changed their tune after a lot of glowplugs were snapped by mechanics on piecework rates....i.e. forcing matters....

I think you may be right but with my limited knowledge and experience i would not want to risk it. The light has stayed off since so hopefully that remains the case. Regards.

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Could the engine management light problem be just the cables ? I have engine management light on but problem is just a broken glow plug cable apparently 

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On 10/25/2019 at 1:19 PM, Gooner20112012 said:

Could the engine management light problem be just the cables ? I have engine management light on but problem is just a broken glow plug cable apparently 

Did you manage to get this sorted mate? My issue is still ongoing 

 

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