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Corolla Brake Pipe Flares and Unions


oldcodger
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Hi ,

Can anyone tell me what type of Flares and what size Unions are used on the brake pipes of my 2006 Corolla 1.6vvti Hatchback.

Need to replace the front to rear long pipes or it may fail the mot, not to mention our safety !

thanks.

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Just checked with Mr.T for their price for the above pipes;  they do not list them as spare parts, Toyota tell the dealers the make/fit their own copper pipes !

Seems Automec do a GB4041 brake pipe set for £225 which seems a bit wasteful as one need the two rear pipes.

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Think Halfords do the pipes for about £15 which you can bend yourself. As for the unions I think they're metric.

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23 hours ago, mickburkesnr said:

Think Halfords do the pipes for about £15 which you can bend yourself. As for the unions I think they're metric.

Cheers Mick,

Its really the pipe flare thats the key, no one seems to know or be giving out what type it is SAE or DIN, and need to know as most of the cheaper flaring tools will only do one particular type.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare

 

000818.jpg

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Hi Mick,

Had looked at that one, but its manual only describes these two type of flare which do not seem to be the DIN/ISO type... ?

Think I will have to split a joint and see exactly what type I have.

Have had my eye on this type of tool, available in two types DIN or SEA,  thing is they look a lot  easier to use as they really keep the pipe very firmly held and you just bottom the dies, no having to stop turning when you think its right as some of the ytubes show for that MM /Draper type , though again its what its like in practice that matters.

 

 

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On 4/5/2018 at 10:16 AM, mickburkesnr said:

I bought this tool, and I'm 99% sure it does any flare you need to make with it.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht172-automotive-pipe-flaring-kit/

Hi Mick,  

Had chance to crack a sound brake line to see what kind of flare is used.

As you can see it looks like a Bubble / DIN type , so wonder if your Clarke flaring tool kit will do one of these ?

Seems there are two types of kits, one for single and double flares  called SAE  and ones that have a Bubble forming  die,  often called a Metric set.

 

000829.jpg

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On 04/04/2018 at 9:49 AM, oldcodger said:

Just checked with Mr.T for their price for the above pipes;  they do not list them as spare parts, Toyota tell the dealers the make/fit their own copper pipes !

Seems Automec do a GB4041 brake pipe set for £225 which seems a bit wasteful as one need the two rear pipes.

Your dealer told you fibs all the parts are available :

 

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On 06/04/2018 at 10:03 PM, oldcodger said:

Hi Mick,  

Had chance to crack a sound brake line to see what kind of flare is used.

As you can see it looks like a Bubble / DIN type , so wonder if your Clarke flaring tool kit will do one of these ?

Seems there are two types of kits, one for single and double flares  called SAE  and ones that have a Bubble forming  die,  often called a Metric set.

 

000829.jpg

Sorry been away all weekend, in your neck of the woods actually for a wedding!

I'll check my flaring kit and get back to you.

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Hi Oldcodger, just to let you know if you have trouble undoing any of the brake pies ends/unions with a spanner simply cut the pipe off as close as you can to the fitting with a good set of side cutters if you have them and using a 6 sided deep socket simply put it onto the fitting, tapping it on with a hammer if necessary and undo the fitting using a ratchet, a 3/8th one is best if you have one. Mike.

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1 hour ago, Mike169 said:

Hi Oldcodger, just to let you know if you have trouble undoing any of the brake pies ends/unions with a spanner simply cut the pipe off as close as you can to the fitting with a good set of side cutters if you have them and using a 6 sided deep socket simply put it onto the fitting, tapping it on with a hammer if necessary and undo the fitting using a ratchet, a 3/8th one is best if you have one. Mike.

Hi,

Thanks for the info, its was the two rear nuts that were very difficult to remove without any damage.

Found giving them a spray with PlusGas overnight helped and  using a proper Brake nut spanner like the Draper one, which really does get a good even grip.

 

 

 

On 4/7/2018 at 7:07 PM, Devon Aygo said:

Your dealer told you fibs all the parts are available :

 

Hi,

It was the regular spares guy I normally deal with and he has always given prices etc.

Wonder if its more to do with the size of the rear pipes, if the are original steel type  then carriage might be silly money unless part of a big order ..?

 

On 4/7/2018 at 7:07 PM, Devon Aygo said:

 

4 hours ago, mickburkesnr said:

Sorry been away all weekend, in your neck of the woods actually for a wedding!

I'll check my flaring kit and get back to you.

Hi Mick,

No worries, was in MM yesterday and the guy confirm their  kits only do SAE  and not true DIN bubbles, so have to buy a proper £33 DIN tool as mentioned earlier.

 

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2 hours ago, oldcodger said:

Wonder if its more to do with the size of the rear pipes, if the are original steel type  then carriage might be silly money unless part of a big order ..?

No delivery charge, as a dealer we pay a flat fee regardless of delivery type/quantity

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello OC,

Presume you fixed the rear brake pipes' corrosion.  How did you get on?  Did you renew the full length front to rear? (just in case I have to do the same one day!)

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Hi,

No, not replaced anything yet as been tied up with the Aircon problems as in my other recent posts, plus when removing the radiators fan to get to the air con condenser was then able to see a small leak on the radiator, and the Battery has started to get very weak  - all comes at once !  but can hardly complain at 106k miles / 12 years old and apart from a clutch nothing else gone wrong.

Did get chance to have a quick look under the nearside where all the pipes run from back to front and they are all well covered in some thick sleeving; however the big question is has the water etc been able to get under and down inside that sleeving  ?    will have to cut away some and see what it looks like which will dictate if its a full line replacement or just a splice for the bit of that exposed/rusting  pipe by the rear wheels.

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Thanks OC,

Seen your other posts, so good luck with the aircon.  My Corolla is T2 so doesn't have aircon, which I think is a PITA as a car gets older, as sooner or later the aircon will give trouble. A nice to have item, but I've driven for 50 years without it.  Mind you, could be useful in winter which is when I primarily use the Corolla with it's front wheel drive.  Seemed to be misting up a lot, more recently, so have changed the pollen filter - not sure if that might improve matters.

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10 hours ago, Notoyboy said:

Thanks OC,

Seen your other posts, so good luck with the aircon.  My Corolla is T2 so doesn't have aircon, which I think is a PITA as a car gets older, as sooner or later the aircon will give trouble. A nice to have item, but I've driven for 50 years without it.  Mind you, could be useful in winter which is when I primarily use the Corolla with it's front wheel drive.  Seemed to be misting up a lot, more recently, so have changed the pollen filter - not sure if that might improve matters.

Hi,

Would not be without air con these days, they  can be less robust devices, but for 12 years old cannot complain, just a pity they do not fit the condenser behind the main radiator rather than in front where it gets the full force of any debris coming in, though suspect most problems are caused by long term vibration/weak matrix joints

For summer driving  found the old Avensis and this Corolla to be quiet warm cars  which  soon get very hot in the sun and in the wet winter days the air con is very effective at preventing misted screens.

Whats your summer car, if the Corolla is the winter one ?

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Hi OC,

As you say, 12 years not a bad life for a condenser.  I'm very impressed with the Corolla - only bought it as a stopgap 3 years ago when my sister announced she was selling it, and I knew of the Corolla's reputation for reliability.  It's just about to reach 50k, having done about 3k/year :smile:  It has winter tyres on the front so it's timely, temperature wise, that it's shortly off the road for the summer.  Summer car is an old 318i tourer which has a bit more room, but obviously not so easy or nippy around town.  In fact, even on longer trips, I don't find much difference in time taken, but that's because I'm no longer a press-on driver :smile:

One day I'll have to have a newer car, but I still do own maintenance, and I have NO desire to own a car loaded with technology, particularly such as electric handbrakes and keyless entry.  All backward steps in my opion!

Having run the 2 cars for a couple of years, any new(er) replacement vehicle would very likely be Japanese.

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On 25/04/2018 at 8:37 PM, oldcodger said:

Did get chance to have a quick look under the nearside where all the pipes run from back to front and they are all well covered in some thick sleeving; however the big question is has the water etc been able to get under and down inside that sleeving  ?    will have to cut away some and see what it looks like which will dictate if its a full line replacement or just a splice for the bit of that exposed/rusting  pipe by the rear wheels.

Fairly sure someone (think it was @olddriver) said their brake pipes exploded while undergoing their MOT test, that the pipe under the plastic cover had corroded. So it can happen.

Also haven't forgotten about the flaring kit mate, just haven't had the time or opportunity to get a look.

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4 hours ago, mickburkesnr said:

Fairly sure someone (think it was @olddriver) said their brake pipes exploded while undergoing their MOT test, that the pipe under the plastic cover had corroded. So it can happen.

That happens quite frequently,(on all makes)  which is why the pedal is pushed as hard as it can be on the test. If you are going to burst a pipe it is better under test conditions rather than braking going downhill as you approach the promenade :rolleyes: 

 

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Hi All.

I did MOT's for many years and yes as testers we push the brakes very hard, no different to a driver doing an emergency stop. Other problems that show up are worn seals in the master cylinder, (If the pedal sinks usually) or bubbles appearing in flexible brake pipes where the rubber pipe has separated, no different to getting bulges in a tyre wall.

Mike. 

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6 hours ago, mickburkesnr said:

Fairly sure someone (think it was @olddriver) said their brake pipes exploded while undergoing their MOT test, that the pipe under the plastic cover had corroded. So it can happen.

Also haven't forgotten about the flaring kit mate, just haven't had the time or opportunity to get a look.

 

Hi Mick,

No worries, I was in Machine Mart and those sets do not do proper bubble flairs.

 

 

@Parts-King   &  @Mike169

Replaced all the rubber hoses last year as a matter of course.

Was thinking about just splicing in some pipe for the rusting section of pipe by the rear flexibles, but from what you say think it would be false economy not to replace the whole lengths, you never know whats going on under that plastic coating.

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have that DIN kit and its very very good, will flare steel pipes without issue, just remember to strip the plastic back, and grease the press tool otherwise the flares go wonky.

spanner size on mine is 10mm for the 2 securing nuts and 16mm for the stop/press tool.

For splicing pipes I find these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132383316628

really good and make a nice neat job of things.

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  • 3 months later...
On 5/1/2018 at 11:21 AM, mickburkesnr said:

Fairly sure someone (think it was @olddriver) said their brake pipes exploded while undergoing their MOT test, that the pipe under the plastic cover had corroded. So it can happen.

Also haven't forgotten about the flaring kit mate, just haven't had the time or opportunity to get a look.

Sorry for the delay in replying, yes it was me, see:-

 

 

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