Failed Emissions MOT

[celicatardis]

My boyhood dream car has failed it's MOT and I need some advice please!

It failed it's emissions test. In fact, it was aborted after first fast idle test due to dense smoke from the exhaust (see image).

I've had the car two years and it's passed it's MOT twice.

However, there has always been an issue with the engine warning light coming on but no mechanic has been able to diagnose the issue. It has also drank a lot of oil too through-out my ownership. I'm told this is a frequent problem with Celica's.

I'm not sure what to do as the mechanics have said that it's burning oil and think it could be a valve issue or rings. It will need inspecting further apparently. It might be fixable or I might need a new engine.

It was mentioned by a garage that it could be possible to pass the emissions test by changing the spark plugs (obviously this wouldn't deal with the deeper issue but might buy me some time in having the car fixed). But this could be a long shot.

I don't want to spend lots of money having it inspected only to find it's going to cost too much to fix.

Any advice please?

Thanks!

[FROSTYBALLS]

Hello Steve - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.

Moved to the Celica club.

[JayG]

Hey Steve. That's a bummer about the MOT.

Based on those figures it looks like it's running rich and the hydrocarbons readings being so high could suggest that your cat might be shot. (if you have one installed that is!)

Was the car hot or cold when it went in for the MOT? A good thrash before the test helps. If it's not had a good raz the cat could just be all clogged up.
Chucking in some injector cleaner like redex or similar can't hurt at all.
Do you have an aftermarket intake? Could be the car is sucking too much hot air.
Could also be bad readings from the lambda, you can grab one online fairly cheap.
Could also the be the post cat O2 sensor. Again fairly cheap to pick one up.
And if that doesn't work, a new or second-hand cat is the last option.

Do you have an aftermarket exhaust? and is it de-catted? It won't stand any chance of passing if it has no cat.
With no cat at all, my "post cat" o2 sensor basically causes the engine light to be on permanently. Even with the cat re-installed I think my post cat O2 sensor has caused my engine management light to come on about 3 times in the last 8 months or so when I have it fitted. I wouldn't worry about that just as long as the light doesn't come on during the test.

You can also reset the engine light without a diagnostics tool (although I strongly advise seeing what the codes are as they might point you in the right direction)
Alternatively, you can reset the ECU by removing the EMI 20amp fuse in the engine bay for a few seconds. Just bear in mind your car will need to re-learn afterwards.

 

PS: forgot to add. This "dense smoke" can you reproduce that? if you rev up to around 3k what colour smoke are we talking about here?
 

[celicatardis]

Thanks for your in depth reply JayG, really appreciate it. Yeah it was hot when taking in as I drove about 45 mins for my mot.

Lots of advice here, I'd be lucky I think if any of these things you've suggested! I'd take any of them.

Lots have suggested piston rings or that the engine is now caput and I need new one.

Yeah the dense smoke, kinda blue I guess, need to check again.

 

[celicatardis]

Update: had a mechanic look into the engine today...

Spark plugs are terrible, in fact, so bad he had to take a picture and send to his colleague! He reckons they stopped making the ones I have in 2004, which could indicate they haven't been changed in all that time?! He doesn't think that a new engine is needed but new plugs, rocker cover, gasket, carbon clean is all that's needed. £70 inc. labour.

I won't hold my breath on this. I can see that it will probably help and if it gets me through the MOT then that's something but I think it's a deeper rooted issue as said. But you never know, maybe I'll get lucky! If not, worst case scenario, £70, fail the free retest and I'll buy another Celica. And sell this one for parts. If it goes through it's MOT, I'll still have it fully looked into afterwards, full service.

[JayG]

Sounds like a plan. Can't really quibble at £70 either. Let us know how it goes!

[Jinx1991]

Hi mate, i hope this worked out for you. If not please let me know what kind of celica you are driving, preferably engine type.

the T23 has a problem engine, not going into to much details it has a design flaw but can be fixed if your local dealer is reasonable.

 

Greetings, Tom

[celicatardis]

sad news, didn't pass again. still got the problem with emissions, too much dense smoke still. oh well, new celica it is! how can you tell which is a 140 or 190 bhp version?

[celicatardis]

Hi Tom, it's a VVTI

[Scarlett Arrow]

140 has a black plastic inlet manifold, 190 has metal.

Avoid the pre face lift 140, otherwise you could be back where you started.

[celicatardis]

Cheers Kev, yeah I agree 100%.

[Konrad C]

On 21/04/2018 at 4:20 AM, Scarlett Arrow said:

140 has a black plastic inlet manifold, 190 has metal.

Avoid the pre face lift 140, otherwise you could be back where you started.

 

On 22/04/2018 at 12:12 PM, celicatardis said:

Cheers Kev, yeah I agree 100%.

Adding to what Kev has already said, buy as late as possible with some paperwork and history. If you know about the 1ZZ (140) engine, there is an history of burning oil with this engine which was cured around 2005, on the Avensis (Might be earlier on the Celica). Any car which had the oil burning issue, would have had the short engine changed under warranty. The oil consumption was 1 litre every 1000 miles. Any car that had the fix also had a different dipstick and I think the oil pan changed.  More info from earlier posts - 

 

Not every 140 Celica had the oil burning issue, but the later the better. 

The 190 is a different engine so you won't need to worry about that. 

[Tomb3]

As mentioned above the 1zz (140) had an issue mainly on the prefacelift models so prior to 2003, there was a period the facelift model in 52 regs that some had the pre facelift engine. If you buy one check the service history you want one that has had regular oil changes.


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[Jinx1991]

Sorry for the late reply, as a toyota fan and some one who rebuild engine's for a living. yes youre type has a known fault wich results in excessive oil usage.

long story short, the cilinder wals are made to weak. so they bend very easy under heat, simply put the cilinders shape like ovals (egg shape) after 80-120k kilometers of usage. this falls under warrenty and most likely would get you a replacement engine under warrenty even if you're car cleared the stock warrenty protocall.

 

Sorry for my kinda !Removed! english :P i hope this makes sence.

 

also, if you choose or youre shop gives you the option of rebuilding the old engine, its not a bad option just make sure they use a stress plate when they bore / hone the cylinders. You dont want to know how many people ive met with problems after a rebuild from a shady shop who didnt use a stress block -.-

[chrismane]

Hi there. A real bummer about your problem. I wouldn’t want to go through something like that. In fact, I’ve never had any problems with my MOT, as far as I recall. But you’re right about the expenses. They can really be expensive and you might have to do it not only once. That’s pretty frustrating, right? Anyway, I’m always careful about my MOT inspection test and I really do my homework searching for information and new updates about the changes in MOT. I have a MOT checklist that is really useful to me and I recommend it to anyone having problems with their MOT. My advice regarding your problem: it’s better to pay once, but a lot, then to do it a few times but cheaper. So keep that in mind.

[CAPTAIN SOLO]

To help reduce oil consumption, you can dissolve carbon deposit on piston rings and valves' seats by flushing engine oil with MOTOR MEDIC's GUNK ($5 12 Ozs bottle) or similar products. The chemicals would dissolve carbon deposits and sludge so rings and valves would seal better, improving compression and reduce oil escape into cylinders head forming sludge. 

Excess oil burning would contaminate the CAT, produce pollutants and fail SMOG tests.

One fix is to add an extension tube (14 mm) to the O2 sensor 2 behind the CAT to make it less sensitive, fooling the ECU to think the CAT is working adequately and pass the SMOG test. This extension tube may be prohibited by local Smog laws, so dont let the Smog guys see it.

I have a 2002 GTS  with original 2ZZ engine, auto xmission, exhaust, still runs smooth and strong, passes California smog tests after 320K miles, despite my bad high speed driving habits and lots of abuses.

[Sab873]

Here is how it goes,start to finish drive her up to her limits in each gear to burn the carbon off.Put Redex or quivalent in the tank.Book her into a specialist fuel system cleaner garage.Oil and filter drops emissions by 0.2.

Fingers crossed.