Recommended Posts

Hi All

I have purchased a new mechless headunit for my vehicle, being the platinum model i have already upgraded the front door Speakers and front dash Speakers, all thats left is the tweeter on the pillars.

What i am thinking of doing is purchasing a component set of Speakers, of which the tweeters from the new set i will replace the stock pillar ones, and the pair of Speakers, which look more like subs i thought id mount on to my rear parcel shelf.

My question is with the wiring, im thinking if there is already wiring there for the front door Speakers, and front dash Speakers, aswell as the pillar tweets....how or what would i wire up the rear parcel shelf Speakers to? Id like to avoid an amp with this install if i can.

Any input would be much appreciated. Thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

if your wanting to have a sub then a sub in a box and an amplifier to drive is the way to go,

if your going for components then make sure you have some crossovers aswell.

your parcel shelf wont be strong enough for mounting a sub and you wont get the best sound from it either

your other option is a under seat sub they have there own amp already built in to the speaker housing.

here is a link for an underseat sub

https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-in-phase-usw10_p-25817.htm

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure about the wiring, as Aygo has fancy component setup compared to our Peugoet 107 (2008 model), but I fitted some rear Speakers may years ago and for the rears I got some 13cm Speakers as I didn't want too overload the standard parcel shelf and added an extra 'string' lift support! Seen few peeps fitted 16cm or even 6x9s on a shelf, although 6x9s usually been on custom made shelf, but they just bit OTT for me. Don't know what weight/size your Speakers are, but if you using standard parcel shelf, will they work with the shelf.

I also fitted a fancy connector for rear Speakers so can take rear shelf/speakers off easy if needs be for load carrying. 

Thankfully our 107 stereo wiring was much simpler so upgrading front dash Speakers and adding rear Speakers was fairly easy.

I had these Speakers running off the standard stereo for many years, then I upgraded my headunit and added amped front door Speakers and underseat sub. As eygo says if you want a proper sub, then underseat or box is only way to go. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Puglet said:

Not sure about the wiring, as Aygo has fancy component setup compared to our Peugoet 107 (2008 model), but I fitted some rear Speakers may years ago and for the rears I got some 13cm Speakers as I didn't want too overload the standard parcel shelf and added an extra 'string' lift support! Seen few peeps fitted 16cm or even 6x9s on a shelf, although 6x9s usually been on custom made shelf, but they just bit OTT for me. Don't know what weight/size your Speakers are, but if you using standard parcel shelf, will they work with the shelf.

I also fitted a fancy connector for rear Speakers so can take rear shelf/speakers off easy if needs be for load carrying. 

Thankfully our 107 stereo wiring was much simpler so upgrading front dash Speakers and adding rear Speakers was fairly easy.

I had these Speakers running off the standard stereo for many years, then I upgraded my headunit and added amped front door Speakers and underseat sub. As eygo says if you want a proper sub, then underseat or box is only way to go. 

 

Thanks Puglet...this fancy connector you speak of...what does it look like? Any links?

I def dont want a sub of any sort.

But when i look at the components ive ordered, the Speakers dont look like my door Speakers, theyre all concealed, being 16cm i thought id mount them on my rear board, i mainly wanted the tweets from the set if im honest.

My main concern is how to add the rear Speakers via the existing wiring....im a bit confused...do i join them to my front door wiring for example? Or which wires should i tap in to?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just racked my brains, and I used a speakon connector, but there are other types connector to do same job, but I used that.

I don't know how your front dash and door Speakers on Aygo are wired up, I guessing dash/tweeters are fronts (with crossover) and door Speakers are rears? I personally would wire in your new rears as rears from 'normal' rear speaker output and then maybe you can use a splitter for fronts or like I have amp the front door Speakers using RCA output and have the dash/tweeters from the 'normal' front speaker output. 

Also, if its easier just run new wires to the Speakers, I did that with my upgraded fronts and just left original wiring unmolested, incase I want put it back standard at any point. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your Platinum will be the same as my Blue,  with the fronts being the 4" dash and the tweeters on the a pillar with the rear speakers in the front doors. However early 3 door cars had the rears mounted in the side panels next to the rear seat (where the rear doors are in the 5 door cars)  Think they were 4" the same as the dash Speakers. C1/107 owners had the option of a parcel shelf upgrade that had Speakers on it

I've got low end co-ax Alpines in the dash and and have disconnected the tweeters in the A pillars.    Another set of low end Alpine co-ax in the doors  and an under seat kenwood sub all running off the standard headunit.  All sounds fine.  You don't get the low trouser flapping bass but it gives a nice thump.  

You mentioned that you've already upgraded the dash Speakers, may i ask if they are co-ax Speakers (a small tweeter sits on top of the woofer) as if they are then you shouldn't need another tweeter.   Splitting up component Speakers up will give a few problems as they need a crossover to function properly.  The crossover will split the frequencies sending the appropriate frequency range to the appropriate speaker.   You could always replace the door Speakers with the component woofer  and mount the tweeter in the A piller or in the dash speaker location and put something on the rear shelf.

Fitting some form of sub will transform things,  my underseat sub has a volume control and when you vary it, its very apparent to what the sub is adding.  If you don't need your boot then something like this https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-swe-815_p-27715.htm

A review for it https://www.adamrayner.net/alpine-swe-815-active-subwoofer-with-wired-remo/

 

Speakon connectors are used in pro audio for connecting amps to Speakers  http://cpc.farnell.com/c/cable-leads-connectors/connectors/audio-video-connectors/loudspeaker-connectors

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahh cheers guys...helpful indeed. I shall report back my progress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there...

 

RE: Adding another parcel shelf string to accomodate extra load of rear shelf speaker

Looking at the string side now it has a hook thingy, but there isnt anything to hook on to on the oppositte side other than a bolt head, i have a spare genuine Aygo string and drilling the hole into the shelf for it is easy enough, but where to hook it to is the issue.

Appreciate Any Ideas Guys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 25/04/2018 at 1:23 AM, Micra2Aygo said:

I've got low end co-ax Alpines in the dash and and have disconnected the tweeters in the A pillars.    Another set of low end Alpine co-ax in the doors  and an under seat kenwood sub all running off the standard headunit.  All sounds fine.  You don't get the low trouser flapping bass but it gives a nice thump.  

I am planning to connect an under seat sub too and was wondering, how you have connected your under seat kenwood sub to the system?

Is it via speaker wires since the head unit does not have a sub output?

How is the sub activated? Via live wire from the back of head unit or automatic sound detection?

Where does the power to sub woofer come from? Directly from the Battery or at some fuse via fusebuddy?

How good is the sub? What model is it?

Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sam

go to toyota and buy another clip for the parcel shelf string and fit it on the other side

it will look factory and not tacky with no sharp edges to catch yourself on.

Rajiv

subs normally have 2 inputs low level and high level ,low level input is before the sound is amplified and high level is after amplification

i.e. from a set of speaker cables, you will have a permanent feed for the sub and then a controlled output from the head unit

this output used to be used for automatic aerials years ago but now it is used for remotely turning on & off amps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rajiv  I got this fitted about 6 years ago https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-kenwood-ksc-sw01_p-25624.htm

I had to get it fitted as I would never of got  the time to do it myself:sad:.   Its mounted under the passenger seat and is currently wired to use the speaker inputs but I did get a phono/rca cable ran back to the headunit, so when the head unit is changed I can use the new headunits pre outs to feed it.  Power wise, its wired to the Battery via a separate fuse.  The remote on is from the headunit.   The subs volume control is stuck via velcro to the plastic hand brake surround right under the hand brake itself.

There are few audio installation manuals on the Toyota Tech site including one for fitting an under seat CD player and under seat sub.

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/Aim/Aim.aspx?pubtype=AIM&menuitem=3

 

Just noticed that the Sound Pack installation manual appears to show that a 4" speaker can be fitted to the rear doors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting read...

I’d love an underseat woofer...however unpractical in a 3 door sadly...kids in and out...unless its step-proof...its not gona work for us sadly!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys...

I am in the process of fitting my new tweets...ive removed the pillars finally...i have an issue....

The original hole cut outs are too big where the factory tweets sat...any ideas how i could cover these in? My new Jvc tweets are much smaller. I could relocate them higher up but i like the position as it is now.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi sam

is it possible for you to remove the mesh grill off the originals then cut a hole in the middle of the original grill

to suit your new tweeters this way they should have a perfect fit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, eygo said:

Hi sam

is it possible for you to remove the mesh grill off the originals then cut a hole in the middle of the original grill

to suit your new tweeters this way they should have a perfect fit

Excellent idea & contribution, thank you, i did think of that however, my aftermarket tweet is slightly larger in the outer circumference than the inner circumference of the factory tweet sadly.

What i may do is, i have some rear speaker board cut offs left over when i cut the holes to fit some rear shelf Speakers the other day, if i cut those down to fill the tweet holes on the pillars from the rear of the pillar, and then mount the new tweets to the board, it obviously wont look a flush finish but its an idea i guess, rather than buy another set of pillars that didnt come with tweets installed.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 06/05/2018 at 11:31 PM, SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS said:

Interesting read...

I’d love an underseat woofer...however unpractical in a 3 door sadly...kids in and out...unless its step-proof...its not gona work for us sadly!

Just to give an idea of the space available, here's a pic taken from the rear seat of my 5 door.

The passenger seat is fully forward and the seat back is tilted as far is it will go.  The sub could be mounted further forward  by at least another 10mm.  If you omit the forward mounting bracket you could gain a further 10mm.  

UnderSeat.jpg.de5fb184a0f9e63295cbe88716b2dca1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now