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Toyota Avensis T27 1.8 manual acceleration issue


taximattcy
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Could be a number of things. MAF sensor, throttle pedal system, bad petrol, fuel system, lambda sensor, valvematic system, spark plugs, coil packs? Regular oil and filter service, say every 10,000 miles or at least once a year, with high quality oil (0W/20), and air filter. Diagnostics with live scan and data logging may help. 

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Thank you

My car is in toyota garage

Tomorrow they check it i hope to find the problem 

The oil catalog show me oil 5w30 not 0w20

Edited by taximattcy
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/25/2018 at 9:57 AM, Konrad C said:

Could be a number of things. MAF sensor, throttle pedal system, bad petrol, fuel system, lambda sensor, valvematic system, spark plugs, coil packs? Regular oil and filter service, say every 10,000 miles or at least once a year, with high quality oil (0W/20), and air filter. Diagnostics with live scan and data logging may help. 

toyota told me after the diagnostic test is all ok.

but is not all ok just get my money

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the car have oil liquy moly 10w40

have spark plugs ngk laser Iridium

and i had the original air filter and i replaced with original k&n

when is idle i push the pedal and after long is responding

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10 hours ago, taximattcy said:

the car have oil liquy moly 10w40

have spark plugs ngk laser iridium

and i had the original air filter and i replaced with original k&n

when is idle i push the pedal and after long is responding

I would get the car diagnosed by an auto electrician or a garage with good diagnostics (not necessarily Toyota)! Their equipment will check the throttle position sensor is working properly. I have a diagnostic scanner that does live scan and show what some of the components are doing whilst the engine is running. The car uses fly by wire, so check that the accelerator pedal position sensor is working properly.

  AVENSIS |  ACCELERATOR LINKThrottle pedal and position sensor.

Now regards to oil and spark plugs, 10w40 may be too thick an oil, especially for the Valvematic system. There are preferred and recommended grades. I would say that 5w30 okay, but 0w20 is the preferred grade as stated in the owner's manual. 
Quote:- 

'SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy, and good starting in cold weather.

If SAE 0W-20 oil is not available, SAE 5W-30 oil may be used.

However, it should be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change.'

I checked a later owners manual and it states the same - 0W-20 is the prefered grade, though other grades are recommended as substitute for top up purpose when 0w20 is not available.

Your spark plugs are another problem. I only have Denso SC20HR11 Iridium spark plugs (pre gapped to 1.1mm) fitted! The engine has been tested and specced with these spark plugs, so that's what is installed. I would swap out those NGK spark plugs out as soon as possible. I am sure that another member had problems with 3rd party spark plugs. 

When you swapped the air filter to K&N, I assume it was the a panel filter fitted into the original housing and not a cone type? That could be cause mis-reading. 

Recap, change the oil to correct grade, replace the spark plugs to correct brand/type, replace original air filter and housing, if cone type and not panel type, and get diagnostic with live readout of the throttle position. Also check the MAF sensor has not been contaminated by oil from the K&N filter, if the filter has oil coating! Use MAF sensor cleaner and don't touch the sensor wire! 

AVENSIS |  AIR CLEANER   22204 is the MAF sensor. where shown as 'MARK'

get the car back to factory, then see if there is an improvement.

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Before replace the air filter to k&n the problem exists. 

My oil is 5w40 was my mistake to say 10w40

With air conditioner on the car is really donkey

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I have very similar problem. 

Avensis 1.8 petrol, manual, 2006. Does not eat oil, doesn't user a lot of petrol. 

Car lags behind when I start at traffic lights. Even old Corsas, Fiesta and Ford Kas accelerate faster. I put new air filter, changed the oil, cleaned the MAF sensor. So far no difference. And the engine shakes in first or second gear when I accelerate, but not always. 

Well, the car actually can accelerate same as all other cars at traffic lights, but I will need to rev the engine all the way up to 4000. I doubt all other cars rev up to 4000 every time. Don't want to waste money at stupid garages who plug the reader and say "all in order". I have a reader, and no faults, no 'check engine' light on the dash board. 

Don't know what to do. 

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The accelerator pedal replaced from prius and nothing changed.

Yesterday for short time the car was fine after became the same. 

I have apoitmend on 22 to electronic garage to check all the things one by one.also my car when am on traffic lights the revs go up and come down for a seconds. 

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  • 6 months later...

I have the same problem for a year now. This doesn't happen all the time but for sure it is frustrating. I really cannot find its 147 horse power anywhere. Been to 2 different garages and find all ok. Sometimes I have to rev up to 4000rpm to start in a hill.

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Hi

Go to the garage and tell them to reset the ecu to start learning from beginn. 

Maybe will be better. 

How many km on the clock you have? 

The best way to fix it is to remap the ecu to take little more torque and up out 10hp more. This will make the car better. 

If you find a person who can remap the ecu and give also to the gas pedal 25% or more just let me know because no one can do this in Cyprus because is very complicated this ecu for remap. 

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Here are some things I have experienced with my car, and will share with you. The engines power is defined by it's torque as well as where the torque and maximum power occurs in the rev range. The valvematic has 147 hp (108kw) @ 6400 rpm, 133 lbft (180nm) @ 4000 rpm. Now add the weight of the car and the gearing. 
I tend to drive in low rpm 1500 - 2000 rpm, changing up early unless more power is called for. I have to be careful, because the engine anti stalling causes the car to *****. I cleaned the MAF sensor back in August, keep an I on the tyre pressures. My car average fuel consumption is 37 mpg with mainly outer London driving and stop/start traffic. The throttle response is okay,, but if you really need to really accelerate hard, you need to get the revs well above 3000 rpm. Another improvement since the clean, is not having to come out of 6th gear on the motorway as much. Yes I still change down when necessary.
Here is a link to me cleaning the MAF sensor. I used CRC MAF cleaner. -  

The engine also has induction features linked to the vacuum piping. Check those.AVENSIS |  VACUUM PIPING
The vacuum is a little easier and cheaper than the Valvematic system which can be expensive.

On a lighter note, there are 1.6 versions, and I wonder what they are like to drive?  


     

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Hey,

I'd have a look at the clutch. It can become unbalanced over time and this could cause the power to not transmit as fast and efficient as possible. Also consider replacing the clutch if it's worn out and will need to be replaced soon.

I'd take it to a garage which I trust to check the clutch, maybe there's too much freeplay in the pedal, maybe some other thing.

Does the car vibrate at lower RPMs, as if it's about to stall? That would also point to a clutch.

Also try to put car in 5th or 6th gear and accelerate, see if the speed increase matches the RPM increase. If RPMs increase significantly faster than speed, also is a sign of clutch.

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The kit clutch is replaced with original one but i do the mistake to do not change flywheel and i had damage to kit clutch i replaced again and i fix the flywheel and i have just i little vipration now but is ok from before. 

On the down hill the acceleration is fine this means if we have little more power and torque all will be ok. 

For that i need a guy who can remap the ecu to give me 25% or little more response to pedal and can play with the mixture of fuel and with valvematic and with angles. 

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On 11/26/2018 at 12:19 PM, taximattcy said:

Hi what is engine anti stalling? 

and what you do to fix the problem?

i can not change gear upto 2000rpm must be more revs

If I drive along in too high a gear and off throttle or slowing down, if the ECU detects the engine below say 1000 rpm, the ECU tries to raise the engine revs. If you did the clutch whilst this is happening, the engine revs go to about 2000 rpm for a few seconds before falling to idle. This same system kicks in when the air-con is running, though not as high revs. 

From the sound of things, the 1.8 Valvematic in my tourer is in good order compared to yours.

 

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On 11/26/2018 at 1:43 PM, taximattcy said:

The kit clutch is replaced with original one but i do the mistake to do not change flywheel and i had damage to kit clutch i replaced again and i fix the flywheel and i have just i little vipration now but is ok from before. 

On the down hill the acceleration is fine this means if we have little more power and torque all will be ok. 

For that i need a guy who can remap the ecu to give me 25% or little more response to pedal and can play with the mixture of fuel and with valvematic and with angles. 

You really need the diesel or turbo petrol from what you are stating. What is your driving style and the where you drive?

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Am driving in the city nicosia Cyprus like a taxi driver. 

We make allot of test today and to the last live test we see when push the pedal low or high revs the response of throttle valvle was wrong. Example the pedal was 54% and throttle was 14% open. 

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  • 6 months later...

I had ecu updated for facelift version at toyota shop. Works like charm. It's the ethanol on modern fuels that on 2009 ecu doesn't recognise right. Also on the valvematic engine 14% minimum is that throttle is always open otherwise you would stall the engine.

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  • 2 years later...

I have to say that this problem still exist on my car but not as much. It is ecu mapping issue and would need optimization to get real figures. Car always learns it wrong and gives too much fuel when under vvt revs and therefore stuggles to accelerate. One guy in Finland did the optimization cost 580€ so it is not cheap way to get rid of the studdering. Also one bought flexfuel set for the same engine and got the ethanol sensor with the installation. It also ended all the studders. Short them fuel trim settings were changed to some better values.

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  • 5 months later...

I have the same problem that you write about in this topic. Has anyone managed to solve it? In my Toyota, I changed the oil, air filter, spark plugs, coils, flow meter, checked the catalyst and nothing helped.

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