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peter.ling24@gmail.com

Front to rear hydraulic brake pipe replacement.

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Hi again,

I have a 2005 Avensis T Spirit 2.2 D4d hatchback.

Advised today that the length of hydraulic brake pipes running from just aft of the engine to either side to the rear wheels needs replacing due to rust. The area concerned is just forward of the rear wheel arches where the brake pipe disappears into the underside of the bodywork.

Has anyone come across this with their Avensis? Has anyone got any suggestions please?

Obviously it's going to need replacing sooner or later but first I'm going to try clean the pipe first with a small nylon brush to remove any surface rust. Its small enough to just fit into the space where the brake pipe disappears into.

Also, I need to change the swivel ball joint DNS as it has a broken rubber seal. There are a couple of ball joint seperators I could buy. Any suggestions which type to get? Also please, I want to replace the ball joint with a good quality one, any suggestions on manufacturers?

Appreciate any comments please.

Peter

 

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Hi Peter, regarding your brake pipe issue, I had mine cut and a new piece spliced in by my local tech. I had him do the job because flaring steel pipes isn't for those without a very strong flaring tool. The job cost me £130 and I was very happy with the result. I may be able to get you a pic.

Before I had the work done I posted here about my options but nobody responded.

Regarding the ball joint, I would use Blue Print where possible, failing that Borg and Beck.

Regards
Ian

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You can splice them, but it is not good engineering practice, as the long pipes (there are two) can be rusted in several places. The pipe should be replaced completely. A new pipe will cost around £70 for the genuine article, they are available to buy at your local dealer, you just need to make sure you identify the one you need, as there is a left hand and right hand pipe that run together, but different shapes. It is not something I can do mail order as the pipes are around ten foot long :rolleyes: 

A genuine Toyota ball joint is around £45, I can do these mail order

Kingo :thumbsup:

 

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Hi Peter,

Parts king is right from a Toyota perspective, real life though they only seen to rust in front of the wheel due to poor design. Dirt accumulates there if not washed off regularly and causes the failure. It's super common for these to be cut and spliced add I found out. But in the end you can buy complete pipes at£140 plus the fitment will be much more involved, and there are many clips to break.

Regards
Ian

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It is common for pipe to be spliced, but not so much so with steel pipe as it is difficult to work with. A much easier way to deal with smaller lengths of pipe is to use something like Kunifer pipe, a Cupro Nickel pipe which can be formed easily and you will never have to replace it ever again :thumbsup:

 

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Hi Peter, this issue has been covered a couple of times. This is  my posting from last year

 

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Thank you all for your replys.

Firstly, if I could afford it I would get the whole pipe either side replaced. 

Splicing seems to me to be a good option. Using nickel pipe is an excellent suggestion.

I want to buy a good quality swivel ball joint so will probably speak to "Kingo".

Thanks again to Ian, Kingo and Owd. Appreciate too the extra topic reading.

Any preference regarding the ball joint splitter please?

Regards

Peter

 

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Hi Peter, no brands but I suggest avoiding the fork and going for one that tightens, nip it up nice and tight then strike the side of the joint with a hammer. Generally speaking the more you pay the better the puller, but for DIY, there are diminishing returns. Ian

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Hello Ian

Appreciate what you said. Sound advice again.

Thanks for you help. 

Regards

Peter.

By the way, after sorting the injector seating issue the engine is running smoothly and surprisingly quietly. Excellent indicated MPH too.

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On ‎03‎/‎05‎/‎2018 at 9:03 AM, Parts-King said:

You can splice them, but it is not good engineering practice, as the long pipes (there are two) can be rusted in several places. The pipe should be replaced completely. A new pipe will cost around £70 for the genuine article, they are available to buy at your local dealer, you just need to make sure you identify the one you need, as there is a left hand and right hand pipe that run together, but different shapes. It is not something I can do mail order as the pipes are around ten foot long :rolleyes: 

A genuine Toyota ball joint is around £45, I can do these mail order

Kingo :thumbsup:

 

Toyota advised me that my brake pipes at the rear of the car are rusted and need replacing.  If you buy the complete pipe, is it easy to transport home and can it be DIY fitted?

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The rear pipes from flexy/caliper are short, the pipes front to rear are the full length of the car, so transporting them means you have to thread them into your car, you cannot bend them and straighten them out when you get home again. Being steel they are the pre-formed shape they need to be, that's why I cannot do them mail order. The short ones are dead easy, the long front to rear pipes are tricky and can be done at home, but it's not easy as you often have to drop the tank down 

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3 minutes ago, Parts-King said:

The rear pipes from flexy/caliper are short, the pipes front to rear are the full length of the car, so transporting them means you have to thread them into your car, you cannot bend them and straighten them out when you get home again. Being steel they are the pre-formed shape they need to be, that's why I cannot do them mail order

Thanks for the reply.  This is one job I think I might have to give to Toyota.  I think they quoted me about £370 for the job.

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Thank you Peter, Owd, Kingo.

Appreciate the link for the splitter. When I spoke to the toyota technician she did say that they would have to "drop the tank". Hope to have a closer look at the corrosion soon and will decide what to do.

Thanks again everyone for your advice.

Regards

Peter.

Ps: the air conditioning has stopped working now! Ive never had it regased since having the car. The compressor didn't cut in when aircon button pressed? 

 

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Hi Peter, on my old d4d, the ac had packed up years ago, which is why fitted a shorter belt and bypassed the ac pulley

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