MrTea2100

New Clutch

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Hi,

New member here and looking for some advice please. I recently bought an ‘11 IQ 1.0 and have noticed the vibration issue at 2000rpm. From researching here I believe this can be fixed by replacing the clutch. My question is, does anyone know exactly why the current clutch causes this issue?

Also would I have to go to a main dealer for a replacement or would a local clutch specialist have access to the Toyota parts for the job? The car has around 70,000 miles so a replacement clutch is maybe on the cards anyway. 

Thank you. 

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Hi

The clutch certainly can be one culprit for vibration. Eg: The clutch disc losing its grip on the flywheel, Clutch disc lining friction material worn out. Warped pressure plate or flywheel etc.

Any decent mechanic should be capable of replacing the clutch and or it's associated components.
Just depends what the rest of your service history is like. EG if you have all main dealer service history, you might wish to preserve that and go to Toyota for it.

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Thanks for the quick reply!

The car had main dealer service until 50,000 miles. The last two services were by independents, so I don’t mind going the independent route  

Does the whole clutch need replacing to fix the 2000rpm vibration ‘issue’ or is it just certain components? Also, is the consensus that although a bit irritating the vibration isn’t causing any other damage and could be left until the clutch actually needs replacing?

thanks again. 

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Apart from the flywheel, pretty much everything else would be included in a clutch kit.
If it did turn out to be the flywheel, whilst you could just fix that, you'd be daft not to replace the clutch too whilst you're in there.

 

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Thank you. Very helpful. 

I was looking at Luk clutches for the IQ and noticed that there seem to be two kit options, one is around £100 more expensive. I think I’ve worked out that one comes with a clutch slave cylinder and one without. Would it be necessary to replace the CSC also?

 

 

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No, unless you have trouble with the clutch pedal itself such as difficulty disengaging the clutch etc. There should be no need to replace the clutch slave cylinder at all.

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Thanks for all your help. Appreciate it!

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On the iQ the clutch slave cylinder is a concentric type slave that sits around the gearbox shaft. Apparently when you split the gearbox from the engine the slave cylinder comes apart, drops on the floor and can't be put back together. 

I have a clutch kit for my 1.33 version sitting in the garage waiting for when I need it, Long story, got it cheap, and that has the slave cylinder with it with strict instructions to not operate the cylinder until fitted to the gearbox and the gearbox reattached to the engine. 

Craig.

 

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Here we go, words from the workshop manual....
 

When the transaxle is removed, be sure to use a new clutch release with bearing cylinder assembly and new installation bolts. Removal of the transaxle allows the compressed clutch release with bearing cylinder assembly to return to its original position, and dust could damage the seal of the clutch release with bearing cylinder assembly, possibly causing clutch fluid leaks.
 
NOTICE:
 
The clutch release with bearing cylinder assembly and installation bolts cannot be reused and must be replaced with new ones. Clean and degrease all installation surfaces and make sure the clutch release with bearing cylinder assembly fits securely with the transaxle during installation. The first bolt should be tightened by hand the clutch release with bearing cylinder assembly. Ensure that none of the clutch disc spline grease adheres to the clutch release with bearing cylinder assembly. The clutch release with bearing cylinder assembly cannot be disassembled.

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5 hours ago, MrTea2100 said:

Thank you. Very helpful. 

I was looking at Luk clutches for the IQ and noticed that there seem to be two kit options, one is around £100 more expensive. I think I’ve worked out that one comes with a clutch slave cylinder and one without. Would it be necessary to replace the CSC also?

 

Hi,

Have used LuK clutches myself and they are good, but always replace with a full kit, Plate, Cover Bearing and in your case CSC,  totally false economy not to.

Also be aware that the big name brand clutch kits like LUK are often forged and sold cheaply on certain web sites, so always buy from a reputable source.

Some of the makers web sites show what to look for to ensure you have not bought a pup.

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Thanks for all the helpful advice. Looks like I may be best to go with a main dealer, although the cost compared with an independent is very off putting.

I could also just put up the vibration at 2000rpm until the clutch finally gives up!!

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Hi,

If you have used a local garage before and are happy with their service and price I would probably say go with them, you can often ask them to fit a Luk clutch etc, Blueprint also being popular,  most garages will give at least 1 years warranty on a new clutch.

Toyota used to offer two levels of clutch replacement, their standard original parts, which as you know are expensive, but ask about their OptiFit clutches, basically a lower priced unit to try and compete with all the other local garages as they know the standard one is so expensive.

The parts still probably as good as most oem types used by local garages,  and the warranty a bit less, but the price is better  - worth a phone call for details.

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Thank you. I’ll maybe ring around and call into a dealer to ask about that option. 

I gather it’s ok to keep driving with the vibration? It’s more an annoyance than anything else and it really does only happen going through the 2000rpm range. 

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Bit of an update. 

I’ve realised that I can minimise the vibration quite bit if I ease off the throttle while going through the 2000rpm range. This makes driving a lot smoother. It’s only really going up hills that is sometimes an issue. 

I think I’ll wait to replace the clutch until it’s absolutely necessary. Would it be ok to hold off on a clutch replacement or is the vibration causing unnecessary wear on engine parts etc? 

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I've had about 10 iQs in stock, and the majority make this noise around 1500-2000rpm under heavy load, only one required clutch replacement (was also slipping), so whilst it may be very early signs of needing a clutch replacement I certainly wouldn't fork out £500-600 just because of the vibration noise alone. HTH

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