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Belt replacement question

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I have recently purchased a 6th gen 1998 Celica ST202 with the 7a-fe 114bhp engine. The car has done 125k miles with the last evidence of the cambelt having been changed at 61k in 2004. The belt and tensioner are due to be changed and I plan to undertake this myself.

I can see the process involved to change the cambelt, thats relatively easy, but should I look to change the auxilliary belts at the same time? My rationale is that they have to come off regardless to get access to the cambelt cowling and get the old belt off, so should i fit 3 new belts (Power steering pump, Alternator & water pump & A/C compressor circuits) at the same time while they are off?

From searching the forum various posts suggest changing the water pump at the same time too - is this wise to do for peace of mind? If I change the water pump, can i re-use the pulley that drives it, or should I get a new one? the pulley appears to bolt onto the actual pump with 4 bolts.

Is anyone able to provide the belts required? I can find a variety of belts for this engine, a list of Toyota part numbers would be very helpful if anyone can point me in the right direction. Am I right that the belts I need are toyota part numbers:

88310A - Belt for A/C compressor curcuit (includes pulley in circuit)

16361A - Belt for Alternator & water pump circuit (no pulley, Alternator provides 'tension')

44310A - Belt from water pump pulley to P/S pump, no pulley)

Is that correct? If not, what are the part numbers?

 

Thanks in advance

 

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Belts sourced from car parts supplier, I was going round in circles trying to work out what was what individually but managed to get all 3 for under £18 locally.

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My own mechanic recommends replacing the pump just in case it leaks after the belt is replaced,  U just bought the car I think better safe than sorry, and get year's of trouble free motoring by replacing all the bit's. I think. 

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This engine is the same as the Carina/Avensis of the same period and all the parts are the same. Haynes covers both the cars. By the way, your car is AT200. The AT202 is the 2.0l engine.
You have got the part numbers correct. Have a look at the following link:- http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1998/celica/at200r-blmskw/3_252570_002_/tool-engine-fuel/1605_v-belt

Here are the links to the part number from Conti and Gates:- http://www.gatesautocat.com/drive/TOYOTA/Celica/AT200/7AFE/11-93_11-99/102839

Drive belts, ALT 5PK970, power steering 3PK628, AC 4PK860

 http://aam-europe.contitech.de/pages/web-katalog/web-katalog_en.cshtml

Drive belts, ALT 5PK975, power steering 3PK630, AC 4PK860 - I fitted these actual belts to my old car. 

The Gates cambelt kit which was fitted to my old Avensis is part number K015386XS, and includes the tensioner. 

The discrepancies between the belt sizes are small, and the adjustments should take up the slack. Be careful when removing the crank pulley because it is has a rubber layer between the in and outer metal parts. Never use a puller on the out ring. Use the threaded holes. The pulley can cost between £40 to £300 to replace! Mine failed destroying the alternator and air-con belts. Lucky this happened as I left my house.
The coolant pump being driven by the drive belts and 'NOT' the cambelt, can be changed independent of the cambelt. I can be changed without touching the cambelt. This is covered in the Avensis Haynes manual. If it has been already changed and not leaking, then leave. You can decide.

The one good thing about the 7A-FE engine is that the engine is a non-interference engine. That means if anything happened, the engine should be safe. Some members have had broken belts and just replaced, like old Vauxhall and Maestro/Montego engines.

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Thanks both, especially the tip about the crank pulley Konrad. I've got an offer of a hub puller on loan from a chap on another forum, as I shan't need it again in a hurry after this. So the pulley has threaded holes, which I feed the legs of the puller through, correct?

There is no evidence from the receipts that came with the car that the coolant pump has ever been changed, its not itemised on the 2004 invoice for the last cambelt so could quite well be original. I'll change it for good measure since I'll be in amongst it all anyway.

Yes, thats whats keeping me using it, even though its 5k miles and ~8 years overdue a change, if it snaps then it will be annoying, but only until the recovery lorry picks me up and takes me home again. Hopefully this won't happen between now and when I change the cambelt, coolant pump and auxilliary belts!

I picked up the aux belts today, they are 'Dayco' brand. Not a name I'm familar with but they are newer than what is on there currently, and I'll retain the ones which come off for a few months in case a new belt breaks suddenly.

I have a Gates Cambelt kit and 'Veco' coolant pump on the way too, I just need some time (and assistance from my brother) to get the job done.

Am I right that there is no cam locking tool for thsi engine, you just need to align it all by eye using the alignment markers and then rotate it all by hand once the job is done to make sure nothing is jamming as the engine rotates?

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Hi Huw. The Harmonic crankshaft pulley does have 2 screw threads for the puller legs to screw into. The puller kit I have fits perfectly. That way you won't delaminate the out ring from the inner section. Here is one of my posts - 

The replacement brand of the pulley was Febi (Federal Bilstein). Hopefully you won't need it unless there is signs it will fail.

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Thanks, so the pulley looks like this:

 

Capture.PNG.601d27b81febe57e548f9bd6ffaabcd2.PNG

 

I need to bolt the puller into the 2 small circular holes at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock? do you know what thread the holes have by chance? Presumably something common like M8? Or do the puller legs hook into the 4 cutaways at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock, with the centre bit pushing on the centre hole, is that right?

 

oh, and if it is #1, do you know how far apart the two holes are? A lot of bolt-on pullers seem to be 100 - 115mm adjustment and it looks to be less than 100mm between threaded holes on this to me?

 

Sorry if I'm being dense, I just need it clear in my mind.

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sorry I have not responded, but hopefully I will answer the pulley questions.

I went and checked my old rusty pulley and took some photos.

20180625_161009.thumb.jpg.d9e92430b59ff4ed1a51eee4c8f6af61.jpg

The pulley and puller.

20180625_161923.thumb.jpg.c3b0c22740b255620ba2fd17f8daeb09.jpg

The puller showing the threads which are the same as on 13mm bolts, like those used to hold brake calipers.

20180625_161126.thumb.jpg.9d46f8c643a9daa57f35d0570fc2fcb7.jpg

The spacing between the centre of the holes is 6.5 cm.

20180625_162633.thumb.jpg.63fee991ea13040badcd41d5983a37be.jpg

The pulley. Notice the black rubber lining between the outer can inner rings. That what seperated. 

You can also use two 13 mm  bolts or wedge a suitable lever between the pulley and engine block. Usually not much force is needed to remove the pulley.  

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Thanks, thats perfect - I've got a harmonic balancer/pulley puller on order which looks like a birds foot and will definitely work for this.

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Thanks for the pointers chaps.

Cambelt, water pump, and all aux belts changed yesterday and today. Car runs perfectly so seems to have gone right!

Its not a bad engine to work on, though space is quite limited between the pulleys and inner wing. Hopefully there is a good few years left in this car now.

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