Gen 2/Gen 3/Auris/CT200H - Which would you chose?

[Otispunkmeyer]

Yeah, I didn't give it a proper look but I did fiddle with the brightness and position buttons and couldn't see anything changing. 

Its not the end of the world. Never had one before, so I don't know what I am missing!

I've only actually driven one car where it worked properly and another where it was so dim it only showed up on a dark background. 

Ill have a proper look when I get more time. Hopefully it is something I can have fun tackling later (as mentioned, full workshop, tools, lifts etc at my disposal). If the HUD LCD is dead, does anyone know where I can get a replacement part? There is the chance as well I guess, that its had a new windscreen at somepoint and they've fitted one that doesn't play nice with the HUD>

[QuantumFireball]

The HUD projector is a vacuum fluorescent display on these models, not LCD. I think the replacement part is quite expensive, so may be best off checking breakers if it is dead. Maybe double check the position setting as it may seem like it's not on at all if it's out of view (and the viewable window is quite small).

[Otispunkmeyer]

The part is about 100-200 off eBay, so I will be leaving it for the time being. Also need to find a video or guide for how to do it. 

As I say, not a big deal for me. Never had one and didn't really adjust to using it on other test drive where it did work so its no great loss. Tyres are the more pressing matter... why people buy winters and then leave them on just confuses me. I suppose they do it because they don't want to have to pay for two sets of tyres, but its a false economy as you wear the winters incredibly quickly once it gets warm.

[danowat]

the HUD is a great feature for keeping an eye on the HSI without taking your eyes of the road, I really miss it when I drive the wifes Yaris hybrid!.

You were way more thorough than I was when I brought my Prius, so I am sure it'll all be fine, congrats!

[kithmo]

You also get the Nav turn by turn directions on the HUD with the Gen 3

[PeteB]

Yes, as this is pre facelift, I'd forgotten that.

After the 2012 facelift the SatNav instructions no longer appeared in the HUD.

[Otispunkmeyer]

Ok so panic over, AC blows nice and cool now that it's had chance to work round the system.

I did check the cabin filter. It's mucky as, so I'll order a new one. 

Someone has fitted funky LED lamps to this thing. I'm very skeptical as they don't look particularly good from what I can see. There is a large heatsink on the back of the lamp housing and a loom extension with a little power ballast that's about the size of a pack of gum. 

I'll post a pic later as I don't know what the back of the lamps is meant to look like. I'll be putting it back to halogen I think.

 

[danowat]

11 hours ago, Otispunkmeyer said:

 

I'll post a pic later as I don't know what the back of the lamps is meant to look like. I'll be putting it back to halogen I think.

Sometimes these things, as well as being shonky, a dangerous fire hazard, and dazzling to other drivers, can fail the MOT.

[Otispunkmeyer]

If anyone has a picture like the one I posted of a standard set up that would be a great help. I need to know if anything has been removed to fit these things.

 

I did google the make. They're V16 Turbo somethings with CREE LEDs. So they are at least not super horrible. But the light they make is 6000K and for me, this is too blue for a driving light. Yellower is better IMO. Even OEM HID systems are more daylight like (5000K). 

 

First drive to work, 33 miles, 57.3 MPG on the computer (so I assume it'll be about 54? how far out is the computer figure generally compared to calculating it yourself at the pumps?)

[danowat]

5 minutes ago, Otispunkmeyer said:

If anyone has a picture like the one I posted of a standard set up that would be a great help. I need to know if anything has been removed to fit these things.

 

I did google the make. They're V16 Turbo somethings with CREE LEDs. So they are at least not super horrible. But the light they make is 6000K and for me, this is too blue for a driving light. Yellower is better IMO. Even OEM HID systems are more daylight like (5000K). 

 

First drive to work, 33 miles, 57.3 MPG on the computer (so I assume it'll be about 54? how far out is the computer figure generally compared to calculating it yourself at the pumps?)

https://www.aliexpress.com/v16-turbo-led_reviews.html

Cheapo Chinese LED conversion, probably illegal to use on external lights in the UK.

Does the 2009 have halogens as standard?, mine has OEM LED's, but not worth taking a pic if yours doesn't.

And yes, about 3-4mpg higher on the computer, you should be able to get (much) better than that with some driving technique modification!

[Otispunkmeyer]

Will have to do some research

I can't think that its OEM config was anything other than Halogen otherwise there'd be no desire to fit something like those! I know halogen bulbs don't work spectacularly well in projector housings, but thems the breaks.

[Mike J.]

Erroneous post, sorry can't delete.

[Otispunkmeyer]

3 hours ago, danowat said:

https://www.aliexpress.com/v16-turbo-led_reviews.html

Cheapo Chinese LED conversion, probably illegal to use on external lights in the UK.

Does the 2009 have halogens as standard?, mine has OEM LED's, but not worth taking a pic if yours doesn't.

And yes, about 3-4mpg higher on the computer, you should be able to get (much) better than that with some driving technique modification!

I am a fairly economical driver, despite being rather quick also (without traffic I have managed my 30 mile cross country work trip in 37 minutes). Its all about carrying speed and coasting in-gear. Regularly get 44-46 MPG out of our Mazda 3 (2.0 Skyactiv Petrol - A very very good engine). But the drive train is much different to conventional so there are some habits to form. What won't be helping are the winter tyres that were left on it. I'm sure they were good in the winter, but its 32 degrees outside and well out of their operating window.

 

 

From what I can see of the headlamp backs, I think it might just be a swap. The standard bulbs are H11 which are the ones with the right angle automotive connector on the back and they look to have a seal on the plug. I'll have to take a closer look. I was just worried that they've removed some back-cap or seal or something in order to fit these dumb LEDs.

[QuantumFireball]

Your 57 MPG (indicated) sounds good considering you only just got the car, though it depends what kind of driving you're doing. I find fuel consumption increases significantly going between 100-120 km/h (60-75 MPH), around 60 down to 52 MPG indicated.

Regarding "coasting in-gear" (you mean engine braking?), if you let off the throttle completely there will be some small regenerative braking happening, to simulate mild engine braking. To achieve something more resembling coasting, you will need to apply the throttle lightly so the bar on the Hybrid System Indicator essentially disappears (between the "CHG" and "Eco" sections). The slight regen is not going to help efficiency if you don't actually want to slow down.

[PeteB]

5 hours ago, Otispunkmeyer said:

...how far out is the computer figure generally compared to calculating it yourself at the pumps?)

I've found full tank to full tank calculations average out at about 5% optimistic.

[Otispunkmeyer]

1 hour ago, QuantumFireball said:

Your 57 MPG (indicated) sounds good considering you only just got the car, though it depends what kind of driving you're doing. I find fuel consumption increases significantly going between 100-120 km/h (60-75 MPH), around 60 down to 52 MPG indicated.

Regarding "coasting in-gear" (you mean engine braking?), if you let off the throttle completely there will be some small regenerative braking happening, to simulate mild engine braking. To achieve something more resembling coasting, you will need to apply the throttle lightly so the bar on the Hybrid System Indicator essentially disappears (between the "CHG" and "Eco" sections). The slight regen is not going to help efficiency if you don't actually want to slow down.

Generally, my coasting is on down-hill sections where some engine braking just keeps you from running away, but isn't enough to significantly slow you. A lot of my driving is cross-country so, rural A/B roads which are winding and undulating. Over time you just get the feel for driving these smoothly, maintaining momentum and slowing enough for corners without being too heavy on the brakes. For me, its actually a more interesting time than just trying to go flat out all the time.

[Otispunkmeyer]

19 minutes ago, PeteB said:

I've found full tank to full tank calculations average out at about 5% optimistic.

Good to know. I use an app called Fuelio on Android for logging fuel so will keep an eye on it. Hopefully once a full set of new summer tyres are fitted, things should improve a little further.

[Catlover]

Lots of tips on You Tube on how to drive an hybrid economically

[Otispunkmeyer]

Not sure what is going on with the AC.

 

Coming home from work I got in and I hit auto. Nothing. Just warm air. I fiddled about with the buttons turning it off and on, manually setting recirc/outside air, fan, AC etc and eventually it became nice and cool.

I tried to recreate this later this evening and it's now working fine. Get in, hit auto set to lo and it gets cool quickly.

Everything seems to work. I can hear the compressor coming on when I hit AC (parked, engine off) and I can hear all the flaps moving around behind the dash for mode and recirc. So it seems to be behaving.

Will try again in the morning and see if it gets cool quick after resting for 8+ hours.

I did notice at times that the leds on the recirc/outside air buttons would alternate. Like it couldn't make it's mind up which one to chose.

 

After about 10 minutes i managed to get cool air from the vents. It didn't gradually get cool either. After fumbling with the buttons it went from warm to cool fairly sharpish.

[danowat]

Auto isn't auto like many cars, auto doesn't cycle the AC (at least in my car), I actually have to physically hit AC even if it's on auto.

[Otispunkmeyer]

Ill keep that in mind. Auto does seem to behave strangely at times. 

Got in it this morning. Hit fan on,  set to lo and hit AC and I got cool air in reasonable time so it looks like its all functioning. The test will be home time today.

[QuantumFireball]

Sounds like it's low on gas. I had the same problem - it seemed functional in morning or evenings, but during a hot day it would take over 10 minutes to do anything useful, and even then it didn't do much. Try again after it's parked in the sun for a few hours.

See my post here about checking the sight glass:

Recirculation will change automatically in Auto mode. Generally with aircon on, it will turn on recirc when it's hot and trying to cool.

 

[Otispunkmeyer]

Its supposedly been regassed though, and by a decent garage who know what they're doing. On the test drives it wasn't working at all. They've regassed and it does seem to work ok, when you can get it going. As I say, probably needs a few more experiments first before taking it anywhere.

I will do the sight glass check. I already knew about it, though determining what is right seems a bit hit and miss. As far as I could work out it was if you could see foaming and bubbles all the time its too low. If you see nothing at all its either overfull or completely empty and if you see periodic foam/bubbles on start/stop of the compressor its probably OK.

 

ETA: Just seen your post about the temp at the vents, 4 degrees? That is cold! are you sure that is right? I definitely would say my AC isn't that icy cold, but it is cold enough to do the job. 

[QuantumFireball]

Yes, it should be uncomfortably cold when you put your hand right up to the vent. 4-5 degrees for a properly functioning system.

I can set mine to Auto and 22-23 degrees (22-25 outside in this insane weather!) and it will get to a comfortable temperature within a couple of minutes. I never need to set it to "lo" when it's working properly as that's way too cold!

When it wasn't working properly, I never saw bubbles through the sight glass, but the level of fluid was low enough that I could see it splashing around inside, and it drained completely when turning off the aircon. Now I see no movement, but I can see there is fluid there as the dye they put in has made it look a bit yellow.

[Otispunkmeyer]

Ok

had a look at the glass. I also have a page from the 2010 Toyota Prius Inspection booklet, the page about Refrigerant Volume.

Link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ugbEo2ciqSL0Qvc5xZB15hbq81fJPuh-/view?usp=sharing

1. Before the car was on, there was no fluid in the sight glass. Just some yellowy residue.

2. Car on, AC on. I guess I didn't get round to the front of the car fast enough because when I got to the glass I saw it fully yellow/greenish. Seen the odd bubble, but for the most part all you could see were the sort of swirly, turbulent shadows as the flow stopped/started with the compressor going on and off.

3. AC got cold fast enough. But I still wouldn't say, ICE cold. AC was set to "Lo"

4. I note that, at the start the compressor would turn on and off. Also some other fans would spin up and down in a cycle of about 5 seconds on 5 seconds off. Then after a minute or two those fans came on a stayed on and the compressor on/off seemed to be less frequent. I assume that this is normal and some sort of start-up program.

5. I didn't have it on long enough probably but there was distinct temp difference to the touch on the pipe work for the feed/return on the R134a lines. Distinct, but I wouldn't say considerable difference (which is good as excessive difference is an issue according to the inspection sheet).

6. After switching off, again I didn't get round to the front fast enough to see if it foamed. It was just clear (although obviously full as it was solid yellow/green liquid).

 

I will re-perform these tests with someone else pressing the buttons later! But at the moment I am leaning towards the system being over-filled.