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Techsream Codes and what to do


Wheel2Turn
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Hi everyone

I brought a rav4 on 2004 plate about a year and half ago and I am trying to sort a few problems out.

A member of this site said to me to get the Techstream lead and programe when i first sign in to this site, I have and it's running on a old laptop XP windows,Techstream (ver 9.00.025)

Background to when I brought my rav4 = The car only came with one key so I telephoned Toyota to get a new key and they wanted silly money so I got one cut and program by Timpsons they did have problems doing this but did manage to sort it for me in the end.

When I got the car the immobiliser light by the steering wheel stays on when car is parked with key out and doors locked and when engine is running light flashes. I have been told this is not right.

My rav4 have got another light which is a car alarm light by the ashtray where the places are to add more switches, the light flashes when key is out and doors are locked and the light goes out when I unlock the doors so all seems to be working there.

I have plugged the Techsream in the car yesterday and I have = DTC codes P0102 P0113 B2799

So do I just clear the codes now and see what codes come back.

What I need is advice or a link to how to work the Techsream program, I was hoping you kind people on here could help me like you have in the past.

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Sounds like you've got a non-remote key from Timsons with the correct chip code for the immobiliser. 

The first two codes pertain to the engine and may well be from a while back. The third code essentially is an issue of communication between the immobiliser and the ECU and may well have occurred when you've been testing new keys. Delete all codes and observe that the check engine light is now extinguished with the engine running.

Come back to the forum with the codes displayed if the check engine light illuminates again.

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2 hours ago, gjnorthall said:

Sounds like you've got a non-remote key from Timsons with the correct chip code for the immobiliser. 

The first two codes pertain to the engine and may well be from a while back. The third code essentially is an issue of communication between the immobiliser and the ECU and may well have occurred when you've been testing new keys. Delete all codes and observe that the check engine light is now extinguished with the engine running.

Come back to the forum with the codes displayed if the check engine light illuminates again.

Hi thank you for your reply and getting back to me

It seems to be not just the timsons key that i had cut and programmed for my car but it also happens with the key that came with my car when i brought it, it is doing the same thing with the immobiliser light, light stays on when car is locked but flashes when engine running ?

The check engine light have never come on since I have owned it,It did last week after I cleaned the throttle and the maf but when i let the engine tick over for a few minutes the engine light went out and it have stayed out, I have done a little search and I think them first to codes could be something to do with me doing a clean on the throttle/MAF.

I will clear the codes one day this week and see what's what.

I've never used this Techstream before so I don't want to do something that may cause me more problems so any help or advice I do get i really appreciate thank you.

 

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I forgot to say the buttons on both key fobs lock and unlock my rav4 doors when pressing them.

 

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As an aside, I’m interested in the fact that the likes of Timpsons supplied a remote key - they would usually only supply a plain key with an immobiliser chip in the head.  A remote from Toyota fully programmed would be around £150 - what do Timsons charge? Did they need access to the car to programme the remote?

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56 minutes ago, gjnorthall said:

As an aside, I’m interested in the fact that the likes of Timpsons supplied a remote key - they would usually only supply a plain key with an immobiliser chip in the head.  A remote from Toyota fully programmed would be around £150 - what do Timsons charge? Did they need access to the car to programme the remote?

Hi again

They supplied the key blade and fob,They cut the key to fit my car and got the fob to open and close the doors.

I took the car to them because they said on the phone they would need the car to do it, cost I think was £70 I can't remember now I could fish the receipt out. It was about a year and half ago now when I brought the car. I was worried because I only had the one key that came with the car.

It took me two trips to timsons the first time they couldn't do it because he was busy and asked me to take it to them again midweek when he could spend more time trying, It took him about just over a hour I think in all.

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That's a good price since an aftermarket remote key is £30+ before cutting and programming. I guess it depends on the location of Timpsons - it would have to be a branch where you could get your car close by!

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It sounds to me that he did not program the new remote in the correct manner (because "spend more time trying"), but instead cloned the original key.  When the car is new, it is supplied with two "master" keys, one of which which is needed to program another key.  It is my understanding that the newly programmed key does not become another master.  If the masters are lost, it is impossible to programme a new key in the correct manner, but a new key may be cloned from the existing one.

I am not sure why use of a cloned key would cause any difference in the car's behaviour, so my guess is that it was a trial and error process, and the car detected something amiss during that.  There is probably a way to reset the indication of that detection, but it may require a master key.  You could try this by entering the key programming mode with Techstream.  If it will not enter the mode, your key is probably not a master.

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Depends on what you mean by programmed - there are two modes to programme. Firstly to programme the remote action of the key - a working key is required - doesn't need to be a remote but does need to have a correctly coded immobiliser chip (original or copy). It can be tedious programming the remote mode since there are time constraints between the various steps and it's easy to make mistakes. In addition there are various published methods for Rav4 key programming and it can be trial and error to find one that works. Programming will fail because of simple faults eg if the drivers door light switch doesn't work. There are different ways of coding the immobiliser chip of a new key - the easiest way is with a working key which is required in order to read the code and copy it to a new chip. 

Code B2799 relates to an immobiliser communication error and is the probable cause of the peculiar action of the immobiliser light. To ensure that the system is restored to factory settings - disconnect the Battery for a couple of hours after deleting the codes.

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4 hours ago, IanML said:

It sounds to me that he did not program the new remote in the correct manner (because "spend more time trying"), but instead cloned the original key.  When the car is new, it is supplied with two "master" keys, one of which which is needed to program another key.  It is my understanding that the newly programmed key does not become another master.  If the masters are lost, it is impossible to programme a new key in the correct manner, but a new key may be cloned from the existing one.

I am not sure why use of a cloned key would cause any difference in the car's behaviour, so my guess is that it was a trial and error process, and the car detected something amiss during that.  There is probably a way to reset the indication of that detection, but it may require a master key.  You could try this by entering the key programming mode with Techstream.  If it will not enter the mode, your key is probably not a master.

Hi Ian ML Thank you for the reply

I think it was you when i first logged in to this site that gave me the info and the link for the Techstream Thank you again for that its only now i have got around to linking it up to my Rav4.

I think you maybe right, When i first brought the car i was given one key and i don't think its the master key, The thing is the car drives well and I'm pleased with it so far just the immobiliser light bugging me because it not doing what it should be doing.

The guy at timpsons did try a few times he told me this when i picked up the new key from him, I will try that one day in the week at work at the mo thank you,

Is there a good link or vid of how to get in to key programming mode for me to try it, I don't want to mess anything up with the Techstream.

Thank you again 

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5 hours ago, gjnorthall said:

That's a good price since an aftermarket remote key is £30+ before cutting and programming. I guess it depends on the location of Timpsons - it would have to be a branch where you could get your car close by!

 

 

 

4 hours ago, gjnorthall said:

That's a good price since an aftermarket remote key is £30+ before cutting and programming. I guess it depends on the location of Timpsons - it would have to be a branch where you could get your car close by!

Yes i didn't mind paying that, The Timpson guy did try a few times but i was just glad i had a spare key at the time, I live in wales and the shop had a car park near by,

I think Toyota wanted £200 something like that for a new key.

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2 hours ago, gjnorthall said:

Depends on what you mean by programmed - there are two modes to programme. Firstly to programme the remote action of the key - a working key is required - doesn't need to be a remote but does need to have a correctly coded immobiliser chip (original or copy). It can be tedious programming the remote mode since there are time constraints between the various steps and it's easy to make mistakes. In addition there are various published methods for Rav4 key programming and it can be trial and error to find one that works. Programming will fail because of simple faults eg if the drivers door light switch doesn't work. There are different ways of coding the immobiliser chip of a new key - the easiest way is with a working key which is required in order to read the code and copy it to a new chip. 

Code B2799 relates to an immobiliser communication error and is the probable cause of the peculiar action of the immobiliser light. To ensure that the system is restored to factory settings - disconnect the battery for a couple of hours after deleting the codes.

Thank you again for your reply

Is one of them the okey cokey method i have been reading about.

Do you think it can be done so that my car immobiliser work like it should or is it jus going to cost me big time ?  I just don't want to get ripped off.

Yes i have done a search and B2799 does relate to an immobiliser problem, So its seems we are singing from the same song sheet so to speak so thank you.

I have also been reading that some people have disconnected the Battery and couldn't get the car to tick over again the engine would turn but would not start so I'm a bit worried it that will happen 

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It's perfectly OK to disconnect the Battery - I'm not aware of other circumstances which caused owners to have problems. 

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2 hours ago, gjnorthall said:

It's perfectly OK to disconnect the battery - I'm not aware of other circumstances which caused owners to have problems. 

Hi again

I just read somewhere on the net that someone who had a problem starting their rav4 after changing the Battery with the same problem i have got.

Update

I erased all the codes and took the car for a spin and no codes have come back when I plugged the Techstream in.

I can get into the key programing mode I think I'm going to look on YouTube to see if I have done that right.

I think I have

I did see something where I can erased all keys but I didn't click it because I didn't want to mess it up.

 

Edited by Wheel2Turn
Just didn't have me glasses on
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What's the situation now with the immobiliser warning light? 

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31 minutes ago, gjnorthall said:

What's the situation now with the immobiliser warning light? 

Still the same nothing have changed.

Just don't know what to do next now

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Disconnect the Battery for a couple of hours. This will clean any memory and restore factory settings. 

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Youtubelink for programming the immobiliser function with Techstream and the remote function with hokey-cokey.

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57 minutes ago, gjnorthall said:

Disconnect the battery for a couple of hours. This will clean any memory and restore factory settings. 

I'm scared to lol

What if the memory don't recognise my keys and I can't start it.

I have took many of batteries off of cars with no problems but after reading on the web about people having problems starting their rav's when changing their batteries.

I'm like do I don't I Lol

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1 hour ago, IanML said:

Youtubelink for programming the immobiliser function with Techstream and the remote function with hokey-cokey.

Yes that's the Vid I watched.I did go into the right Techstream programe screen when I was checking. thank you for the link.

What I did see on one of the Techstream screens was this

Parameter.             Value

Key SW .......................On

IG SW............................on

Immobiliser....................unset

Sub key............................unreg

Master key.......................unreg

Transponder s code.............0

Transponder m code............5

Reg code space full..............no

+B..........................................normal

Antenna coil status.................normal

The number of DTC.....................0

There was others readings on the same screen and they was all showing ok.

Just thought I would post the above readings regarding the Immobiliser etc

I don't know if this will throw light on the subject 

Thank you both for spending the time helping me I do appreciate it.

 

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I think I may have read about this somewhere.  It looks like the ECU has lost it's memory of the keys, but something has overridden the immobiliser, so the car can be driven.  If I had to guess, I'd say that there is a hack employed by car locksmiths to get the immobiliser overridden, and that both your keys are "sub keys" .  The difference between a master and a sub is that the sub can't support key programming, can't open the glovebox (must be a mechanical thing) and doesn't have the remote buttons if it's the factory-supplied sub key.

If I'm right about that recollection, the only solution given was new keys and a new ECU - big money.  Perhaps it would be best to let well alone.

Of course, I may be recalling just someone else's speculation.

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The common hack when you only have one key, not necessarily on Rav4's, and when it's difficult or expensive to clone an immobiliser chip, is to remove the chip from the key and stick it under the cowl near the ignition switch. You can then start the car with a plain key but there is no immobiliser protection and the immobiliser light may malfunction. You can test the function of the system and the chipped key by wrapping the head of the key in kitchen foil. In this state - it shouldn't start the car. This being the case - you then know that the immobiliser system is functioning normally.

If you search on the internet - you'll find many examples of misbehaving immobiliser warning lights. The example below was solved by disconnecting the Battery though I understand that this is something you don't wish to do.

http://www.teoc.ws/community/topic/48812-engine-immobiliser-light-flashing/

 

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4 hours ago, IanML said:

I think I may have read about this somewhere.  It looks like the ECU has lost it's memory of the keys, but something has overridden the immobiliser, so the car can be driven.  If I had to guess, I'd say that there is a hack employed by car locksmiths to get the immobiliser overridden, and that both your keys are "sub keys" .  The difference between a master and a sub is that the sub can't support key programming, can't open the glovebox (must be a mechanical thing) and doesn't have the remote buttons if it's the factory-supplied sub key.

If I'm right about that recollection, the only solution given was new keys and a new ECU - big money.  Perhaps it would be best to let well alone.

Of course, I may be recalling just someone else's speculation.

Thank you again

The key that came with the car two buttons to lock and unlocks doors when pressing buttons on key fob works fine it starts the car and it locks and unlocks the glove box.

The key I had cut by timpsons does the same as the key that came with the car.

The Techstream program will open up the program new keys also ECU seems to be taking to the Techstream program with codes.

So it very strange that nothing is showing override on Techstream ?

I didn't want to spend out money on a new ECU and keys for 2004 plate bit silly really when the car starts and drives fine.

I have done a few jobs on it so I didn't want to get rid of it because its a good car and where I live in wales it does the job.

Just that light is bugging me lol

I'm one that's likes everything working and I repair items, I just don't like throwing them away, lol not tight just old skool.

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3 hours ago, gjnorthall said:

The common hack when you only have one key, not necessarily on Rav4's, and when it's difficult or expensive to clone an immobiliser chip, is to remove the chip from the key and stick it under the cowl near the ignition switch. You can then start the car with a plain key but there is no immobiliser protection and the immobiliser light may malfunction. You can test the function of the system and the chipped key by wrapping the head of the key in kitchen foil. In this state - it shouldn't start the car. This being the case - you then know that the immobiliser system is functioning normally.

If you search on the internet - you'll find many examples of misbehaving immobiliser warning lights. The example below was solved by disconnecting the battery though I understand that this is something you don't wish to do.

http://www.teoc.ws/community/topic/48812-engine-immobiliser-light-flashing/

 

Thank you again

Just did the tin foil test both keys wouldn't start the car, good test that, The car would crank but wouldn't start to tick over engine.

I also had a blank blade key cut again key would crank the engine but would not start.

So everything is doing what it should do there.

Thank you for the link they seem to be having the same problem like I'm having.

Why I'm a bit worried about disconnecting the Battery is if I don't have the master key and the keys I do have are not the original keys what do I do if I can't start the car.

I don't know if you ever watched father ted but I have Mrs Doyle in my head  who makes the tea saying go on go on disconnect the Battery lol

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It's obviously your decision but I'd have a high degree of confidence that disconnecting the Battery won't give any problems. In any event the day may come when the Battery dies etc etc. If it's any comfort I had a 4.2 which came only with one non-original non-remote key. The remote keys I subsequently got were therefore clones of clones and there was never an issue in disconnecting the Battery

However since you've shown that the immobiliser functions correctly with both keys, it wouldn't be out of order to disconnect the immobiliser light - it must be distracting to have a red flashing light when driving at night.

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