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Fault codes without OBD reader 2008 Corolla


remppainen
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Hello,

I have Corolla E150 2008 1,6 1ZR-FE with a mmt transmission. 

I was doing re-initialation of the ecu, clutch and the transmission, with this guide:  http://developer.ps/data/toyota-multi-mode-transmission-mmt.pdf  . So basically I connected the OBD ports 4th port in upper row to 4th port from the right in the bottom row with jumper cable, and put ignition ON and pumped break pedal 7 times fast, and the computer shows me "Diag code FF VSC" and sound beeps 3 times in a row repeatedly. Is this message somekind of fault message? How can i look my active fault codes with thiskind of jumper cable fix without actual OBD2 reader? Is the 3 and 3 sounds somekind of code, or should i be looking the blinking lights if there is somekind of code there? Or is this message just related somehow to "failed to reinitialie the transmission"?

Everytime i start the car it shows no active alarm lights, and checks that "VSC ok".

So I need guide how can i check if there is active fault codes with just jumper cable? And what this "Diag code FF VSC" means?

Thanks in advance!

 

 

corollavsc.JPG

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12 hours ago, dirarko said:

Hi dirarko! Thanks for your advice.  So with that i can read the codes and do these clutch/ecu initializations?

I had an issue at cold when i started to drive without gas, the car should creep forward. But when the engine is cold, the engine would almost stutter (engine almost shutdown) when creeping forward without gas.. so it seemed maybe the clutch maybe released too fast or then too low idle gas... Also other way around when cold when immediately pressing gas pedal on take off the car would thump twice and almost tires squeek.. so again would seem that the clutch is released almost immediately (too fast)..

I did the ECU, clutch and transmission initialization manually, and now it seem to creep forward more slowly than before. I think the initializations reseted the configs.. Shouldn't the robot now relearn the clutch biting point after this initialization? Or is the clutch / actuator starting to go bad.. good news is that its only doing this when cold..

 

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On 9/8/2018 at 9:40 PM, dirarko said:

Hello,

You should take the car immediately after the clutch init for a spin. When was the clutch changed? how many millage or KM?

Hi.

Car has 145tkm and with original clutches etc.

I ordered the mini vci cable and techstream, so i can do the resets from there and read codes etc from there. Do u understand the ECU clutch data if I copy paste it to here from the techstream?

What's the difference between the ECU, clutch and transmission initializations?

 

 

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I don't think the clutch is at fault. I noticed this behavior on more cars,  it happens only when there is high moisture content in the air, so i always thought it's condensation.

After the car warms up a bit, runs fine. During summer, or dry winter months, again runs fine.

Since you basically have the manual gearbox with some solenoids, you have the same issues.

Slower engagements when cold seem to help.

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2 hours ago, furtula said:

I don't think the clutch is at fault. I noticed this behavior on more cars,  it happens only when there is high moisture content in the air, so i always thought it's condensation.

After the car warms up a bit, runs fine. During summer, or dry winter months, again runs fine.

Since you basically have the manual gearbox with some solenoids, you have the same issues.

Slower engagements when cold seem to help.

Yeah i tihnk you are exatly right. I've noticed that too that when high moisture it does this. Just wondering what equipment causes the "double thump" in take off when cold.. it would definately feel like the clutch is released fast.. but i'd think that it would "thump" just once then.. I can try to upload a video of me taking off with cold car when it does the double thump / plump whatever u wanna call it..

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