EPB problem -Again!!!!

[Sasha83]

Hello,
I found this video on YouTube. It has the same problem.
It's about Toyota Avensis 2.0 Diesel (2013). The problem is not all the time. It happens often. I started to ignore it ... I made diagnostics. The result was (deviation of one of the injectors). Little wonder ... there is nothing difference in engine performance.

[Sasha83]

 

[Sasha83]

Hello,
Thank you for the information.
I have no problem for ten days now. I hope it will remain so 😁. The solution was ... At the third speed of 3500 turnovers.

[Sasha83]

Hello,
Thank you for the information.
I have no problem for ten days now. I hope it will remain so 😁. The solution was ... At the third speed of 3500 turnovers.

[Gerald Walsh]

Have same car as Sean B from Dubllin. Manual epb fine but auto handbrake not working and dash lighting up like xmas tree. Going to try dipethane as Sean recommends and see what happens. Have car six  months and this is fourth problem. Best built cars on road?....don't think so! Still  love the Avensis though....its like a nagging wife..you just have to put up with it!

[furtula]

6 minutes ago, Gerald Walsh said:

Have same car as Sean B from Dubllin. Manual epb fine but auto handbrake not working and dash lighting up like xmas tree. Going to try dipethane as Sean recommends and see what happens. Have car six  months and this is fourth problem. Best built cars on road?....don't think so! Still  love the Avensis though....its like a nagging wife..you just have to put up with it!

When you replace perfectly working mechanical things with electronics and call it progress, chuck in a hill start gadget or two, so people approve and be amazed how awesome it is.

Then charge 1500 GBP to replace it when ti dies few years later.

But this happens so gradually that people get used to higher and higher costs of maintaining a car, i wish there were more mechanical cars on the market, and not just with bunch of unnecessary gadgets that we did just without.

[data790]

Hi,

I need some help. So my 2009 diesel Avensis has had some EPB issues. One time the caliper decided to stick - fun seeing my wheel glow in the dark (happily -20 outside so no harm done) - changed that and all was good. Anyway, cut to the chase. My EPB warning went off again. I decided to get the error read by the pros and they just told me today that a motor was the issue. The cable closes one caliper but not the other. I chatted with the mechanic and we worked out a diagram of the issue. Seems their is a motor at the rear or centre of the car that pulls the calipers closed. one cable to rule all calipers it seems. Anyway, does anyone know what this motor is and its name? I am going to order one and see if this is something I can fix or have to get a mechanic friend to watch over me do it. They told me it wasn't the actuator - thank the maker - but a simple motor.

Thanks in advance for your help chaps.

[mrfixer]

The rear brake calipers are of a conventional design.  Each caliper has a cable which goes to the actuator unit - a plastic box located under the centre-rear of the car.

The actuator box contains an electronic circuit board (microcomputer and motor drive circuits) and the electric motor. The motor cannot be changed separately - you must replace the complete actuator.

The motor operates the cables via a gear and turnbuckle arrangement inside the actuator box. If one cable is working but the other is not then it is likely that the cable and/or turnbuckle is seized - probably corroded.  Over time water gets into the cables and actuator. As far as I am aware you cannot buy the cables either. They come as part of the actuator assembly. Its very expensive!

You could try to free-off the cable with penetrating fluid - you'd probably need to cut open the actuator box to do this. Reseal it after with silicone.

You could also try a secondhand actuator - but they are hard to find. 

[data790]

6 hours ago, mrfixer said:

The rear brake calipers are of a conventional design.  Each caliper has a cable which goes to the actuator unit - a plastic box located under the centre-rear of the car.

The actuator box contains an electronic circuit board (microcomputer and motor drive circuits) and the electric motor. The motor cannot be changed separately - you must replace the complete actuator.

The motor operates the cables via a gear and turnbuckle arrangement inside the actuator box. If one cable is working but the other is not then it is likely that the cable and/or turnbuckle is seized - probably corroded.  Over time water gets into the cables and actuator. As far as I am aware you cannot buy the cables either. They come as part of the actuator assembly. Its very expensive!

You could try to free-off the cable with penetrating fluid - you'd probably need to cut open the actuator box to do this. Reseal it after with silicone.

You could also try a secondhand actuator - but they are hard to find. 

Right I see. Probably best to have a shop around then and see what I can find. I might have a crack at opening the actuator box. I have equipment and sealent - and if required a 3D printer to make a new box should I break anything. Looks like a fun project to keep me occupied for a while. Thank you for clearing that up for me. Much appreciated.

[Dg57]

hi Sean . I have an Avensis 16 plate. Same fault as yours. Toyota had a problem with EGR valve. I had 3 on mine before it went away for a week. They were finding the engine was producing too much carbon deposit. That in turn was causing the EGR problems. Once done it had been trouble free for over 2 years now. 

[snookers required]

Guys how's things?

Unfortunately I've fallen victim to this bleeding EPB situation.

Granted this is an old thread and certainly lots of valuable information here ..so many thanks in advance, all be it acquired through the same misfortune as myself.

I've An 09 Avensis estate Diesel.

Parking brake is jammed solid in the driveway.

I've noted many of the potential concerns you've all raised however, I ask only one thing!

What is the first step to take?

What should I do or can I do to get this thing out of the driveway and mended?

 

Again many thanks 👍

[avetoy]

If the car was mine, I'd just disconnect the wires from the calipers.

[snookers required]

So I tried the manual Bowden release....

Absolutely nothing

Stock solid

Seal wasn't broken

All as should be

How can I free up these callipers to get this thing moving?

[Cyker]

Is this the one where it's a normal parking brake cable that's just pulled by a motor?

Do you know what's stuck, i.e. is the cable rusted into the tube or is it the calipers/shoes/whatever themselves stuck to the discs/drum? If the latter, might be able to tap them a few times with a mallet to free them up.

If the former, may need to get some pliers on the cable and wiggle it back and forth to see if it can be freed up, maybe with some WD40 squired up any possibly jammed areas?

I must admit I don't know much about these - My current car is the first one I've had with an EPB, but it's the direct-screw type.

[snookers required]

So the EPB makes no motorized noise and fails to release the brakes

Also the manual Bowden release hasn't worked either

And the bleeding box is the most inaccessible unit

Is it possible to disconnect the box

Put power to the callipers and open them at least

 

[avetoy]

2 hours ago, Cyker said:

If the former, may need to get some pliers on the cable and wiggle it back and forth to see if it can be freed up, maybe with some WD40 squired up any possibly jammed areas

This is a good idea, worth to try!

But if:

1 hour ago, snookers required said:

EPB makes no motorized noise...

Presumably epb actuator is dead, so no bigger harm done if you cut the epb cables near the calibers. So the brakes will release and you can move the car.
If the actuator has to renew, the new cables come along anyway. 

 

[snookers required]

Yeah so I managed to pull the pins out the callipers

Took the car and got diagnostics on it

Said that there was 3 faults

2 which were already stated previously in this thread regarding the clutch and also g shock zero calibrating if I recall correctly

That might be incorrect

However the third was a current issue with the motor itself.

This guy was just a mechanic and kindly gave me the number of a Toyota trained specialist who now has his own shop.£££€€€

This chap came out with big numbers... mentioned previously stated topics also...water ingress, calliper calibration amongst others.

Naturally would be great not to have to entertain those big numbers.

How can that be avoided?

What steps does one take?

 

[snookers required]

Fault code is

C13A5

be handy if anyone knows of this