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code P264A - 'A' Rocker Arm Actuator Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1

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REF..... code P264A - 'A' Rocker Arm Actuator Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1

I have a Toyota auris tr valvematic 2011 plate 64K on the clock… with the above fault code.......

Does NOT show up all the time, it’s very intermediate however it does seem to be more active once the engine is up and running and hot (normal running temp)

I'd really appreciate ANY advice ANYONE could tell me to point me in the right direction to fix this poxy problem.

I’ve done huge amount of homework on this issue sadly NO WHERE can i find a definitive explanation what the hell a * rocker arm actuator * is…..

Or images of the part that could be a fault, let alone the !Removed! location of it on the engine.

I’ve checked many things the car did have an Oil change over 90 days ago ( with the correct Oil )

However It making me think it’s something to do with the Oil its self after reading some sites….

Over filled / under filled / wrong Oil ?

I have removed 1L of Oil so the car has now…… half a filled sump….. On the dip stick.

I have remove both Camshaft Oil timing controls and cleaned them (they won’t dirty anyway)

I am now TOTALLY at a loss …….What the hell is making the car do this…. let alone what a * rocker arm actuator * is…..

Or its location of it on the engine so I could change it.


HELP !!!!!! 🙄😂😂

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Welcome to Toyota Owners Club. 

Moved to the Auris club. 

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Thank you..... Just hope SOMEONE ANYONE. has the foggiest idea what the hell code P264A - 'A' Rocker Arm Actuator Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1 is and where the part is to be or looked at NO IDEA 

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It's in your second picture, Toyota call it a "Continuously variable lift controller" latest part number is 222A0-37023.

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Capture.JPG.0dc975912507d4750984c682ec7a2874.JPG

 

Thank you very much for getting in touch and sharing this information.

I'm not totally convinced yet this is the sole issue the Continuously variable lift controller @ some £850 per unit ( a joke the entire engines only worth that ).

The code P1047 has shown up a few time i guess around 5 times in 10 days.... However the code P264a ( aka P2646 ) shows up EVERY time it fails now around 25 times in the past 10 days........

I would say this however the code P264a that shows up...... points to the senor being OPEN / SHORT'ed

I'm going to swap around the camshaft timing Oil controllers in the rocker head box.... to see if the code follows from back 1 to back 2.

Also run an Oil sludge cleaner in the car and refill with NEW Oil and filter.... 5w30 However i read some where Toyota use ..... 0w20 really ?

If this fails to fix the issue i'm going into one with Toyota 65K and serviced yearly and a possible £1500 fix (Mod Edit: swearing removed) i'd NEVER buy another Jap car as long as i live !!!

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0W-20 has been Toyota's preferred Oil in the 1.6 Valvematic Auris since April 2009 - which is in the owners manual.

  • Thanks 1

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2 minutes ago, FROSTYBALLS said:

0W-20 has been Toyota's preferred oil in the 1.6 Valvematic Auris since 2009 - which is in the owners manual.

Thank you for you input . outstanding thanks

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I have not had any experience with these engines, so judge the following accordingly!  I'm just looking at your pictures!

You may have already worked this out from your googling:

The position sensor I would understand to be the 'Hall ICs' shown in your valvematic cutaway picture. These are 'hall effect sensors' (Google?), so no maintenance can be done to them, and they are buried quite deeply in the actuator, so you can't see them. 

These are critical, (this is the electronic throttle; if they sensors don't know exactly how the shaft is set then then the engine power is no longer being controlled properly!).  This looks to be an entirely electronic system, no Oil pressure used, and the £850 actuator has a controller piggybacked onto it (EDU), connected via a 'CAN' (Google?) bus (shown on the Spanish diagram), this would indicate that lots of data can go to and from this module.  If there is any question of the hall sensors not doing exactly as the ECU expects, the module will put out a fault code (i.e. the two you've listed).

Whilst there is a good chance it will not fix the fault, it would be a good idea to disconnect the car Battery for 30 minutes or so.  This will cause all the electronic controllers to re-learn the engine parameters (i.e. a reboot of everything). Your engine may behave a little strangely for a short while when you next start up whilst it does the re-learn (and you will lose all your radio presets etc).  If you can reseat the connector to the valvematic actuator then do that as well, but the release tang will be stiff; care needed!

Also, I notice that your Battery terminal cover is off. Have you had any other Battery/electrical problems? If you had a bad earth connection to the engine it could easily give false error codes, so look out for loose or corroded electrical earth connections (although the engine looks quite clean).  It's worth just loosening and tightening those bolts if you can.

The VVTi (i.e. not the valvematic system) shown does rely on Oil pressure to offset the camshaft positions, but your fault seems like something seperate to that.  Unless there is an underlying problem, changing from 5w/30 to 0w/20 won't make any difference apart from to your fuel economy.

No harm in doing your Oil/filter/sludge cleaner plan though.  Your error codes may be a 'known' problem with these engines with a specific fix, I'm just suggesting trying the easy stuff before you start spending anything.

In the error code description you can ignore the 'Bank 1' part, your engine only has a Bank 1, if I'm understanding this correctly.

No one from Toyota GB ever reads this forum, btw.

Of course, I am happy to be corrected on any of the above if someone with some actual experience of this comes along!

 

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Hi. Thank you a million for your reply outstanding.

The image of the engine is from the web not mine the Battery cover etc are all in place on mine,

I have just swapped around the camshaft timing Oil controllers in the rocker head box this made no difference at all. HOWEVER the code P264a seemed to only show up again ( after clearing it ) once the car was up to normal running temp?

The Continuously variable lift controller @ some £850 per unit ( is a joke the entire engines only worth that ).... I'll be trading this heap of utter **** in for a totally different car, NEVER will i buy another Jap car 65k on the clock and this amount of cost to fix it simply outrageous.

The Continuously variable lift controller which has the piggybacked onto it (EDU) i guess cant be split ie the (EDU) removed and a new one of them replaced.

I am I am particularly venomous over this issue due to me working for a multi billion pound company Delphi where we RD this kind of stuff for many many manufacturers........ I know Toyota are utterly taking the **** these units are only around £80 to make in Poland.

It looks like the cars GOING !!!!!! and YES Toyota GB ever reads this forum they ********G well should and be disgusted with their POOR engineering

Sorry about the ******** as you might imagine i am proper ANGRY

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It is pointless ranting about your vehicle or the manufacturer on this forum, as it will achieve absolutely nothing.

If you want help, then modify the attitude and language, and then you may get some further advice.

Otherwise you risk having the topic hidden or deleted.

If you want to contact Toyota, see - https://www.toyota.co.uk/contact-us/

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi...

Yes your 100% correct my apologies, 😳😳😳

Its to easy to get out one's pram over car issues such as this one, i do feel however, it's outrageous on Toyota part and shows a real lack of validation of your parts to fail at 65k is simply not acceptable.

Thank you for the contact details i will write to them..... 

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Funny you should mention Poland.  A quick internet search shows someone in Poland selling a new one for 2500 Zloty, which is just over £500, but then there's postage, currency charges, no regular guarantee etc. to count against that idea. At least there's no duty if you buy before March 2019.  If you plead poverty at your local dealer you could get 10% off, maybe a bit more.  But don't forget that it's not a given that this is at fault. 

The second error code you list is perhaps on account of the device re-referencing itself due to the invalid sensor reading earlier.  These *could* be down to a datum point (an endstop?) moving or changing (a foreign body? binding or slack in the mechanism?).

But this actuator is probably Japanese, so the likelihood of opening it up and finding some crud inside it, removing it and fixing it is that bit less, as the original design and quality control was probably good.  If you do take it apart to fix it and it breaks then you have no car, so a responsibilty there.

In the first instance, I would still go for a Battery disconnect and check all earth connections to the Battery, engine and chassis (as any poor connections could do weird things to the digital electronics in this), It's not *that* likely to be the problem, but as it's free to do, why not?

Could do with some input from members Mooly (Hall effect sensor theory), or Konrad (petrol VVTi experience), who might actually know a bit about this topic.  For me this is all a bit hypothetical, I've never seen one.

So, Delphi Gillingham? (formerly Lucas CAV?), I've been there.

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Hi Gerg.

Thank you for your detailed reply its very very appreciated and the feedback regarding this issue.

I have tried just about everything ** Battery off ** blar blar....to resolve or even get closer to finding the pin point problem..... However the more i look into this problem the more and more i see the same feedback....... The Continuously variable lift controller @ some £850 per unit ( is a joke the entire engines only worth that ) and the 'Hall ICs' shown in the valvematic cutaway picture.

I am disgusted that Toyota want such an outrageous amount of money for Continuously variable lift controller. Sadly ( as i like the car ) its going ASAP as part X on a good old faithful Ford or Vauxhall.

This car's NOT robust .....its been serviced on a very regular basis, to have a massive component failure such as this means only one thing for me..... i'll NEVER invest in another Toyota car.

I hope some of this information on this thread helps other members who find them self's with a another skip on wheels due to this massively expensive part failure at 64K !!!

-----------------------------------------------

REF: - So, Delphi Gillingham? (formerly Lucas CAV?), I've been there.

Yes been there many many years heavily into the RD + advanced FIE engineering.......... Still can't fix this Tho

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