Replacement clutch & service cost....

[kt66]

I have a dilemma on my 2007 2.0 D4d.  It's due an Mot and service (118,000) in the next few weeks but there's also very little left on the clutch (biting point is right at the very top of the pedal). 

Does anyone have any suggestions/ideas on what a clutch would cost to get done (I'm between. Stafford and Telford).  A big potential bill makes it all a bit marginal... 

 

Help! 

TIA

[Byzii]

Are you sure it's the clutch?

I think these cars have an automatically self-adjusting clutch so you never really should feel that the clutch is thinning out, at least in theory. Is the clutch slipping or any other signs of it going bad?

If this is the only problem then it might be an issue with the hydraulic system, but others might correct me.

[kt66]

Thanks. It's more that I feel that it's so near the top of the pedal that surely it "must" be on the way out. I've done the "handbrake on, in gear and bring the clutch up" and it does stall. (good). Would the self adjustment mean the bite point is always in the same position? 

My concern is that if I get it serviced and MOTd and had to add a clutch on (now or in the near future) then that sort of bill would potentially make it uneconomic - I'm guessing that a clutch would be £400-500?

 

I really like the car though - it's perfect for my needs... 

 

Any thoughts or pointers are much much appreciated. 

[Byzii]

Yes, the self-adjustment thingy was introduced exactly so that the clutch doesn't need to be manually adjusted every 10k miles or so, and the point of it is that the bite point is always at the same location. The exception is only when the clutch is on it's last legs, think like the last 5% of it's life or something, but then you should get a host of different issues.

What happens if you go on a motorway, drive at 50mph or so at least, put it in 4th or 5th gear and stomp on the gas pedal? As in really stomp it, not gradually push it down to the floor. If the revs jump up for half a second or so but the car doesn't go any faster then it very well might be a slipping clutch.

I would also recommend going over your master and slave cylinders, they can and do go bad at some point. See if there's any brake fluid loss above normal, or maybe the slave cylinder is covered in dirty sludge, as if it has been leaking very slowly. Also check under the dash where the pedal connects to master cylinder, see if there's any fluids there. It should be dry up there.

 

Sorry, I can't really say anything about the prices since I'm not from UK, but I think the clutch disc alone is not that expensive. On the other hand people usually recommends changing everything in there while it's open so you don't have to open it all up again, so that's the clutch disc itself, pressue plate, flywheel, release bearing, fork.. That's probably where the big costs are coming from.

[kt66]

That's brilliant. Thanks for taking the time to do that. I'll give your suggestions a go later in and come back. Fingers crossed then it's not so big a deal. 

Thanks again 

[Motheo]

You can simply ask for a clutch replacement quote plus the master and slave cylinder to get an idea what they cost.

Sent from my SM-A500F using Tapatalk

[Heidfirst]

6 hours ago, kt66 said:

My concern is that if I get it serviced and MOTd and had to add a clutch on (now or in the near future) then that sort of bill would potentially make it uneconomic - I'm guessing that a clutch would be £400-500?

Toyota say from £610 depending upon exact model. Being a diesel it probably has a DMF so if you want that replaced too at the same time expect quite a bit more.

Of course a 3rd party will be cheaper than a dealer.

[kt66]

Thanks for that. Yes I could do with finding an independent near me really as it's just not worth spending that kind of money on it by the time I've added a service and Mot. 

 

 

[frankie406]

If the clutch is not slipping it could be just the pressure plate. But obviously you would replace all. As others have said probably need to do the dmf too economically. 

[kt66]

Thanks 

[ziauris]

On 1/2/2019 at 9:50 AM, Byzii said:

Yes, the self-adjustment thingy was introduced exactly so that the clutch doesn't need to be manually adjusted every 10k miles or so, and the point of it is that the bite point is always at the same location. The exception is only when the clutch is on it's last legs, think like the last 5% of it's life or something, but then you should get a host of different issues.

What happens if you go on a motorway, drive at 50mph or so at least, put it in 4th or 5th gear and stomp on the gas pedal? As in really stomp it, not gradually push it down to the floor. If the revs jump up for half a second or so but the car doesn't go any faster then it very well might be a slipping clutch.

I would also recommend going over your master and slave cylinders, they can and do go bad at some point. See if there's any brake fluid loss above normal, or maybe the slave cylinder is covered in dirty sludge, as if it has been leaking very slowly. Also check under the dash where the pedal connects to master cylinder, see if there's any fluids there. It should be dry up there.

 

Sorry, I can't really say anything about the prices since I'm not from UK, but I think the clutch disc alone is not that expensive. On the other hand people usually recommends changing everything in there while it's open so you don't have to open it all up again, so that's the clutch disc itself, pressue plate, flywheel, release bearing, fork.. That's probably where the big costs are coming from.

Mine also feels higher than normal. Did a test by putting it in 4th gear when it was going uphill at 20mph and speed slowly increased with no high revs. 

How long have peoples clutches lasted on petrol 2007 aurises, mines on 95k and I'm thinking of getting rid before I need to do something like this especially with the loss of brake fluid issues I am having. BTW thanks for the info below, it may be related to my brake fluid loss.

 

"I would also recommend going over your master and slave cylinders, they can and do go bad at some point. See if there's any brake fluid loss above normal, or maybe the slave cylinder is covered in dirty sludge, as if it has been leaking very slowly. Also check under the dash where the pedal connects to master cylinder, see if there's any fluids there. It should be dry up there."

 

Thanks

[Perfection]

My Toyota Verso 2.0 diesel clutch was replaced at 80k miles. The DMF was also replaced, but it wasn't worn. 

The clutch was slipping on mine. After the clutch and dmf was replaced, every is good as original.

[ziauris]

On 1/2/2019 at 9:50 AM, Byzii said:

Yes, the self-adjustment thingy was introduced exactly so that the clutch doesn't need to be manually adjusted every 10k miles or so, and the point of it is that the bite point is always at the same location. The exception is only when the clutch is on it's last legs, think like the last 5% of it's life or something, but then you should get a host of different issues.

What happens if you go on a motorway, drive at 50mph or so at least, put it in 4th or 5th gear and stomp on the gas pedal? As in really stomp it, not gradually push it down to the floor. If the revs jump up for half a second or so but the car doesn't go any faster then it very well might be a slipping clutch.

I would also recommend going over your master and slave cylinders, they can and do go bad at some point. See if there's any brake fluid loss above normal, or maybe the slave cylinder is covered in dirty sludge, as if it has been leaking very slowly. Also check under the dash where the pedal connects to master cylinder, see if there's any fluids there. It should be dry up there.

 

Sorry, I can't really say anything about the prices since I'm not from UK, but I think the clutch disc alone is not that expensive. On the other hand people usually recommends changing everything in there while it's open so you don't have to open it all up again, so that's the clutch disc itself, pressue plate, flywheel, release bearing, fork.. That's probably where the big costs are coming from.

My clutch pedal is quite high now. There is some wetness on the top of the pedal so maybe the master cylinder is leaking (haven't and don't know how or where the slave cylinder is in this car) . How does leaking master cylinder  affect the height of clutch?? I don't quite understand this.

[Konrad C]

 

10 hours ago, ziauris said:

My clutch pedal is quite high now. There is some wetness on the top of the pedal so maybe the master cylinder is leaking (haven't and don't know how or where the slave cylinder is in this car) . How does leaking master cylinder  affect the height of clutch?? I don't quite understand this.

From your description of high pedal biting point, the clutch is worn though not slipping yet. To confirm the master cylinder is leaking, you need to get a tissue and torch check the area where the pedal link to the master cylinder. If the leak is really bad, the clutch pedal will need to go to the floor. Also pumping the clutch pedal then brings the biting point back to a normal level.
http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2007/auris-hybrid-ukp/zre151r-dgmnkw/2_166510_038_345W/powertrain-chassis/3103_clutch-master-cylinder/1

The slave cylinder on the 5 speed 1.6 is external on the transmission, so easy to view for leaks, unlike the later 6 speed Valvematic which is internal concentric.
http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2007/auris-hybrid-ukp/zre151r-dgmnkw/2_166510_038_345W/powertrain-chassis/3105_clutch-release-cylinder
Again like the master cylinder, a leak from the slave cylinder would mean the pedal biting point will be lower!  

[ziauris]

On 7/27/2020 at 9:41 AM, Konrad C said:

From your description of high pedal biting point, the clutch is worn though not slipping yet. To confirm the master cylinder is leaking, you need to get a tissue and torch check the area where the pedal link to the master cylinder. If the leak is really bad, the clutch pedal will need to go to the floor. Also pumping the clutch pedal then brings the biting point back to a normal level.

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2007/auris-hybrid-ukp/zre151r-dgmnkw/2_166510_038_345W/powertrain-chassis/3103_clutch-master-cylinder/1

The slave cylinder on the 5 speed 1.6 is external on the transmission, so easy to view for leaks, unlike the later 6 speed Valvematic which is internal concentric.
http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2007/auris-hybrid-ukp/zre151r-dgmnkw/2_166510_038_345W/powertrain-chassis/3105_clutch-release-cylinder
Again like the master cylinder, a leak from the slave cylinder would mean the pedal biting point will be lower!  

Thanks for the reply. I started the car and pumped the clutch quite a few times. I have had a look and the slave cylinder is dry. The area at the top of the clutch pedal is pretty wet and certain it's brake fluid. The big white arrow in the picture shows the metal barrel and it is all wet along there.The screw that is shown by the little arrow can be turned by hand.

So the questions I have for forum members are:

1) Is the screw (pointed at by the little white arrow) loose and should it be tight. 

2) Is this leak the cause of the clutch being "high", rather than clutch wearing out? When the car is in motion, I can change gear by pressing down the clutch pretty lightly, certainly compared to how it used to be. I have done the 50mph test in 5th gear and stomped down on the accelerator pedal with no slipping/high revs so maybe clutch is OK?

3)  If I leave this leak as it is, will it get worse to the point that the clutch doesn't work? I have been having to top up the brake fluid reservoir a little bit which I can do as and when if needed.

Thanks