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Konrad C

Change rear brake pads due to one of the pads wear indicator making noise.

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Last few weeks I noticed a squealing sound coming from the rear. Sometimes it was there, other times no sound. I checked the brakes earlier and could not see much wrong, but due to time decided to look properly today. Went to a friends garage and got the car on the spare lift. The pads had about 40% left, except the inner pad with the wear indicator which wore at an angle. This was due to my friends not lining up the piston slots, with the pins on the pad. Since the car was already up on the lift, I got the friends to order new pads (Pagid from Euro Car Part £23.04p). The pads were delivered  I use my own socket set I have in the car, unbolted two 13mm bolts to remove the piston caliper. Then the wound back the piston (left hand for the left wheel, right hand for the other side), making sure the slots were horizontal for the pins on the back of pads to fit in. Then it was reassembly using copper grease where needed. Once the las tnut was tightened and the car down, I pumped the brake pedal.

Now the crunch time, because I did not have have diagnostic kit, I hoped the EPB system would not need calibration. Fortunately it did not. The EPB worked faultlessly, with no flashing EPB warning light. 
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Notice the wear angle of the inner brake pad.

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The wear indicator was just touching the disk.

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The other pads were slightly thicker.

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The box of Pagid pads.

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Nearly finished.  

The rear brakes were change exactly 3 years ago.  

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I recently had similar on our 3 year old Mazda 3 with about 17k miles on it.  The ends of the pads weren't lubricated so one end of the pad was stuck while the other end moved and wore down squint.

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57 minutes ago, alan333 said:

I recently had similar on our 3 year old Mazda 3 with about 17k miles on it.  The ends of the pads weren't lubricated so one end of the pad was stuck while the other end moved and wore down squint.

I made sure to copper grease the ends and where the camper and piston contacted the pads. Also the piston was dented where the pin didn't line up. The piston is now properly aligned now. If the pads had been fitted properly, they would have probably lasted double the time (3 years) and distance (21,000 miles). As I mentioned be,  the brakes were changed 3 years previously. 

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1 hour ago, Konrad C said:

 If the pads had been fitted properly, they would have probably lasted double the time (3 years) and distance (21,000 miles). 

1 of the things that came into my weighing up when I changed my 2012 Avensis earlier than I had originally planned was that on it's last service the dealer had said that it was OK for now but on it's next service would probably need new rear pads & discs - that probably would have been ~48 or 50k after previous change.

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This is the best video I have seen and it came with some useful tips - 

One thing I didn't do was reset the parking brake as advised by the presenter. I happen to have a couple of diagnostic kits that can do this function. I wonder if it is too late, because unlike the first time the brakes were done, the brakes worked normally this time. 
The brakes work better now. The pedal response was getting inconsistent lately, sometimes a light push was enough, other times needing more pedal to brake. The pedal feel now consistent. 

The fronts have plenty of pad, but will need changing this year.  

 

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On 1/5/2019 at 12:23 AM, Konrad C said:

This is the best video I have seen and it came with some useful tips - 

One thing I didn't do was reset the parking brake as advised by the presenter. I happen to have a couple of diagnostic kits that can do this function. I wonder if it is too late, because unlike the first time the brakes were done, the brakes worked normally this time. 
The brakes work better now. The pedal response was getting inconsistent lately, sometimes a light push was enough, other times needing more pedal to brake. The pedal feel now consistent. 

The fronts have plenty of pad, but will need changing this year.  

 

I made the mistake of using my Launch CReader VIII diagnostic device, which did not calibrate the brakes. It deleted the settings causing codes C1346 and C1336. I should have left alone or checked back on the site and referred to this which I forgot to check - 

I also have access to the Delphi software which was used in the video. The laptop Battery needed charging. I should have waited and used that.

I tried Techstream but it could not remove one of the codes (C1336). Delphi could not remove either codes (C1346 and C1336). There is a Techstream mode to reset the EPB, but it states 'for use if the EPB has been replaced'! The EPB works, but the aito release does not work. I don't want to take any more risks without advice.   

The OBD link method mentioned in the post did work, but I have found a different variation in another post -  

I will try this method later and report back. 
   

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Update. I fixed it using Techstream myself. 
Basically I removed the cautions and warnings from the dashboard, and deleted the remaining DTC - C1336 with the EPB menu section. That was it!

Everything is works as before.

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