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toyota yaris wheel bearing


Keith276
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I think it is better to get a wheel bearing with a name only £55 blue print from Amazon. I believe though it was not 1 day delivery, but I was tracking it from Germany to UK. Also the blue print oil filter is just over £5 from Amazon, and I got Shell hx8 oil 5 lt for £29 from Amazon but their price for that has gone up, this oil meets the new standards. Though have not changed the oil for a couple of years, will do so next year. 

I have one of these from Amazon 

FreeTec Front Hub Installer Puller Tool Universal FWD Tools Front Wheel Drive Cars. 

So can I use it to remove rear bearing? I know you turn the big nut, but do you hold the nut under with a spanner or just tighten it. I have read all the reviews from Amazon and the best tip I got was to grease the threads which I will do. 

Any advice will be welcomed. 

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That hub puller is not suitable for the rear hub/bearing assembly removal.

Have a look on the old Youtube for an excellent method of removal using long bolts and nuts which push against the axle mounting flange behind the brake backplate (drum brakes). No need to remove the shoes, only the drum. I found it better to remove two opposing wheel studs to accomodate the two long bolts with a nut and washer behind the wheel mounting flange. Most hubs are really well stuck!

Like this but using two bolts. This is a different type hub but the method is the same.

 

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If its an 05 Vitz it will be JDM import or is a Jap built, UK Car ? The wheel bearings/abs may be different, the rear hubs for disc or drum are the same - there is no centre nut on the rear, you will only have a rear half shaft if you have the ultra rare NCP15

 

If it's got ABS replace the hub as a complete assembly soak the bolts and flange down with GT85, Duck oil or the like a few times for a few hours

As per your 2019 post

1528282921_mk1rwb.thumb.jpg.4952d3a3b132cc9ed343cd98335205a6.jpg

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The OP has had it replaced before, so it shouldn't be too hard to remove, air hammer or a rotary stop drill is an option

for the front bearing use a jacking stud get it under tension and give the hub a smack

 

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On 1/25/2022 at 1:14 PM, flash22 said:

If its an 05 Vitz it will be JDM import or is a Jap built, UK Car ? The wheel bearings/abs may be different, the rear hubs for disc or drum are the same - there is no centre nut on the rear, you will only have a rear half shaft if you have the ultra rare NCP15

 

If it's got ABS replace the hub as a complete assembly soak the bolts and flange down with GT85, Duck oil or the like a few times for a few hours

As per your 2019 post

1528282921_mk1rwb.thumb.jpg.4952d3a3b132cc9ed343cd98335205a6.jpg

Rear bearing replacement - took me a whole day to do one side.  used a steel pipe and heavy mallet to whack it out.  No short cut unfortunately, despite using plenty of release spray, atf etc.  If they've never been removed they'll be really stuck in unfortunately.  Just pick a day when you know the weather is good! I've got some pics if you need

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I have seen some slide hammers on yt and they don't seem to work. So I wasted my money on this

Screenshot_20220127_051814_com.android.chrome.thumb.jpg.ae0427cb4d34c0c482d7cfdfbdab0f70.jpg

 

I have the French Yaris. I am sure I saw Scott Kilmer use one these tools on a 10 year old video on a rear wheel? Maybe just use a lump hammar I can just add an extension to one nut and hit from the back of the wheel. 

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A puller on the rear will only pull the bearing apart, as i said above you need to rotate the hub, to break the rust, a cold chisel and club hammer on the bolt ears

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I had very stubborn hubs on my Auris and I only used hammer, wd-40 special for rust and heat gun, front one especially where like welded to the knuckles. Job done after a lots of hard work. Best to use car jack under suspension arms to let the suspension seat on and take the beat instead of the shocks. 👍

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Screenshot_20220127_051814_com.android.chrome.thumb.jpg.ae0427cb4d34c0c482d7cfdfbdab0f70.jpg

 

OK I get it I cannot use it on rear. But I should be able to put in on and hit it with a lump hammar. I also have a heat gun bought it to get the heating element out of a very old electric boiler, that was not a success. I can use that? 

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With the greatest respect M456an, if you are having to ask all these questions and/or not very confident about doing the job, do you think it might be a good idea to have a trusted garage do it? (maybe 1 hour labour).

If you make a start and things get violent enough to damage things to the point that the car is undriveable to somewhere with all the relevant equipment then any savings by d.i.y. will be lost.

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1 hour ago, mrpj1 said:

With the greatest respect M456an, if you are having to ask all these questions and/or not very confident about doing the job, do you think it might be a good idea to have a trusted garage do it? (maybe 1 hour labour).

If you make a start and things get violent enough to damage things to the point that the car is undriveable to somewhere with all the relevant equipment then any savings by d.i.y. will be lost.

Indeed 👍, I almost ended up that way. Thankfully extra oil, heat, patience and hummer got me at the end. 

E29C5E4C-85E3-4052-9C4E-441CF83FA1A6.jpeg

AC50AE55-264D-46E6-AF19-B9916ED8E228.jpeg

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22 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

patience and hummer

That's a bit drastic Tony. I find a 4lb hummer works for most things.:bangin:

Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

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1 hour ago, mrpj1 said:

That's a bit drastic Tony. I find a 4lb hummer works for most things.:bangin:

Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

Took me only two days to complete all 4 plus re spray the discs plates or whatever was left of them, too much rust just from lack of use at the time🤣👍

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Even though I failed to take it off and took it to garage with the cheap no name bearing it was a success. Because I did service the drum brake, changed the rusted nail that holds the spring, also greased it. Cleaned the drum plate cover (these rust very easy even on Yaris with a few years) with a metal brush connected to a drill, then painted it. Though got a rear brake imbalance just passed a couple of months ago. 

 

But feeling more confident for 2 reasons, 1 it was changed a year ago and the garage did say that they struggled to take it off, 2 I used a dead blow hammar to hit the bearing from the back with a socket extension, now I have updated the hammar to a heavy lump hammar. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just used the front hub thing on the rear held it with one nut, hard to get 2 nuts on it and just hit it with a dead blow hammar. I also loosened the rear brake as it was a bit stiff, now the wheel turns 2 and a half times if you give it a push:

 

IMG_20220208_132404.jpg

 

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