CorollaMan1

Abs and brake light on after battery change

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I have just checked on our car, this car had WD40 sprayed all over the fuse box when it was almost new (wifey's car), so corrosion ought not to be an issue.  Those fuses are stuck firm, if I was to use any more force then I would be in the realms of cracking the covers.  So I've left them as they are.  The Haynes manual (actually one for the next model) offers no advice at all.  I think the white plastic bit stays put.  I'd completely forgotten there was an alternator fuse on this car.

As Furtula mentions, in these circumstances, I would disconnect the alternator at the alternator itself.  I've just checked the connections, they are much easier than I remember them - just the one nut under the rubber boot, and a multiwire plug.  I still think it's worth dropping off the Battery earth first, though.  I think that when you disconnect the alternator the parasitic drain (4Amps!) will go with it, and the other fuses won't matter.

This one has a Bosch alternator, it has never been replaced (124000m).

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Thanks for your help thus far fellas. I did as you suggested and disconnected the alternator and sure enough the drain dropped to 0.5 amps which I understand is fairly normal. 

I also did some checks with the car running now I have the multimeter and the alternator is charging the Battery at 16v. With the heaters, radio, indicators and lights this drops to 14v. Is 16v too high to be charging a Battery

This new Battery seems to be a bit wet on top even after i dried it off previously. Im hoping it isn't Battery acid leaking out of the top of the Battery

Now that I know what the issue is, seen as the alternator is charging the Battery whilst the engine is on, is there any harm in just disconnecting the negative when not in use untill I can source and fit a new alternator? 

Still have the abs/brake light issue to try and sort hopefully the diagnostic thing will tell me what the issue is tomorrow. 

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16v is too high, I would look to 14.7v.

I would be very careful about the liquid on the Battery, when you overcharge a Battery it will get too hot.  Also, if there is an AC charging issue (yet to be measured/shown) then overheating the Battery is the outcome for that too.

Best assume it is acid, and as the Battery is now charged the acid will be at full strength!  A bigger hazard!  

Disconnecting the earth strap is fine, but 0.5 amps is 6W, did you have the door/interior light on?  That seems a bit high for no-load....

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16 volts is definitely to high and will result in gassing of the cells (and possible venting of electrolyte which could be what are are seeing). The voltage on an older car with non ECU managed charging may briefly approach 15 volts (or even a little more) on a very cold winter start but should then reduce over a minute or so to no more than around 14.8. When very hot the charging voltage can be around 13.5.

There may not seem much difference between all those voltages but they make a massive difference to how the Battery behaves.

The alternator should maintain the voltage to at least 13 volts or more under normal loading at idle (lights, wipers etc).

When the car is left locked the current draw should be minimal, perhaps no more than 10 to 20 milliamps. Remember you should be able to leave a fully charged Battery on the car for several weeks and still have it start first time.   

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Get some baking soda, and pour around the wet parts to neutralize the acid. Check the battery  caps and close them. 

I would not drive the car if i was you since the high voltage is popping the plastic caps.  If you are lucky, you might find some local place with a spare part, or at a wreckers, and can replace it over the weekend.

It's possible the high voltage is triggering the ABS errors as mentioned on 1st page.

 

I wonder what caused this, and the only thing that comes to mind if they reversed the polarity of the Battery installing, tried to start to move the car, nothing happened, and then switched it around, but damage to alternator diode was already done.

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Thanks again guys for your useful info. Can't believe that the fellas at the garage sent me on my merry way with that kind of voltage going into a brand new full Battery

I am trying to remove the alternator as we speak. Managed to get the top bolt off that connects it but really struggling with the bottom one. I have been using wrenchs. But went for a walk to get a socket set, im wondering if im trying the wrong way as i have broken the socket wrench thing trying to undo it. I am pulling up towards me so trying to turn the bolt anti clockwise to get it off. Should I be going clockwise for this bolt and pushing down on the wrench. The socket head is now stuck on so going to have to find a way to get it off. 

I'm a big fella and have nearly put my back out with this bolt. 

There is a guy who reconditions alternators nearby who said he could repair it tomorrow morning for 50 quid! As you say it looks pretty easy to change just wish I had a breaker bar or something. 

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On 5/16/2019 at 9:31 PM, furtula said:

Yep, that's it. And it seems to be standard OBD2 port, so normal diagnostic should work on it just fine.

I would go to some local garage and ask them to check the error codes. 
 

Dont know why they told you their diagnostic wont work on your car, as this is standard since 1995.

Even though the car has what looks like the OBD2 socket, it will not be OBD2 compatible. This is the same for my previous Mk1 T22 '98 Avensis pre facelift, with the non VVti engine. Mine was was the 7A-FE leanburn. What I did to check any fault codes, was to use a wire to link pins 4 and 13, then turn the key to 'IGN'. DLC3 or OBD2

The EML(CEL), ABS and SRS lights will flash. If a fault code is stored, the 2 sets of flashes will will happen for the relevant system. So for the EML to flash twice, quick pause then once, will mean code 21, which means the O2 sensor is faulty. For the ABS, it will have the same two number flash for the system including which wheel sensor could be at fault. To add to this, if the ABS light is permanently on during the test, the ABS brain is dead! I had this happen to me, so I got one from the breakers yard and fitted it within a couple of hours. I am not sure if you have the same problem. 
To clear stored ABS faults after repair, whilst in diagnostic mode with ABS flashing stored codes, press the brake pedal 8 times within 3 seconds, and the ABS should begin to flash quickly and constantly with no pauses, and there may be a beep. 

This is useful for non OBD2 cars - https://www.auto-manual.com/fault-codes/error-codes-toyota/

.     

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Hi Everyone,

Just wanted to update you on say thanks again for your assistance. I managed to get a reconditioned alternator and fitted it this morning.

The bottom bolt was eventually removed with a breaker bar after almost shearing the nut.

Also had fun when the serpentine belt almost fully came off so spent an hour carefully rerouting it back round.

Im happy to say that the the main parasitic drain has been resolved, still have that 0.5 amp drain but thats one for another day. 

The ABS and brake fault has gone as well so whoever suggested the problems where related you were right. 

I was ready for scrapping this car this week after it has served me for 30000 miles over the last two years. I paid the princely sum of £300 off the old gent I bought it from. It has sailed through both its MOTs with nothing but a wiper blade and a wheel bearing. To have managed to fix it for a total of £80 (£20 for the breaker bar, £60 + my faulty alternator for the reconditioned one) has made my week. And I'm glad I found the forum too. 

Cheers

 

 

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Pleased to hear you have sorted the problem. As to the 0.5 amp drain... well I'll bet there isn't a real issue there and that its something like a courtesy light remaining on while you were testing. It would be very unusual to have another unrelated issue.

Excellent, well done.

 

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