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Stringman

New buyer- some advice need

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Hi there

 I am looking to buy a yaris for my son- we have research all the viable cars and the yaris 1.33 comes out top.

We have been looking at the spirit model 2011 (around £3800).

We went to view one yesterday and it was very nice with the following exceptions.

The sat nav wouldn't work- the touch screen just didn't respond at all. The guy said he would fix or replace   it was a Toyota 13836 model.

Anyone have any thoughts on this at all.

Also the clutch bit very close to the floor and didn't have very much travel. it also felt a bit stiff. Now I drive an auto but my wifes manual (Peugeot) feels much nicer. Is this a sign of a clutch problem or are Toyota clutches like that?

Anything else we should be aware of when buying a yaris??

Much thanks in advance

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Walk away from it. I suspect it was from a dealer?

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"The sat nav wouldn't work- the touch screen just didn't respond at all. The guy said he would fix or replace "

So why did he not do so before selling?

Answer : he's a cheapskate and probably a liar as he'll bodge it .

An honest seller would fix it first.

Run away: lots more around 

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You made a good choice about the model and variant but choose another if the sat Nav is something you need.

I would personally save another £800 and get a 2009-11 TR without the sat Nav considering Waze and Google maps are far superior to the annoying stock Nav.

Sent from my Mi A2 Lite using Tapatalk

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Thanks for the replies.

My gut feeling is something is not right about it. Bathtub, why do you say walk away from it? obviously there are lots of reasons but anything in particular?

Also what should the clutch feel like? hoping to go out and try another car tomorrow

Shavestick is the only real difference the sat nav?

I was thinking exactly the same, save £600 and then buy a new android  double din stereo with reversing camera.

Thanks for all the help

 

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Walk away because it's got problems. Anyone offering a car for sale with faults is looking for a quick buck. If they haven't fixed the faults before offering it for sale, then the cost of fixing it is probably more than they're prepared to pay and the next owner gets lumbered.

It's not as though a 1.3 Yaris is a rare car. Look around, take your time and buy one you're completely satisfied with, follow your gut instincts.

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The difference between the Tspirit and the TR are minimal, apart from the Nav it had lectric windows at the back and some extra trim options.

The clutch is light on these cars so one with a high bite point or one that goes too low will usually signal that it is on it's last legs, ask for £380 discount or a new clutch fitted.

Also get an AC technician to check the AC for issues as these usually get neglected by most owners.

Check the shocks for leaks plus look for deep corrosion on the spring coils.

Otherwise these cars are fairly bullet proof even those who are not that well looked after.

Sent from my Mi A2 Lite using Tapatalk

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I would forget it, as already said, there are plenty about, must be a better one local-ish to you. I travelled 100 miles each way (twice, once to see it, then to pick up) for my used Prius. Well worth it, but you have more choice so should be easier.

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The T Spirits were heavily discounted in 2011 (we traded up from a TR).

The Sat Nav was useless and was replaced by Toyota twice under warranty.  

The car was my wifes and she much preferred the TR but weren't available as they changed to the new shape that year.

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I had a Mk2 (2010) T Spirit Yaris, but it didnt have a sat nav.  Used my TomTom parked it in the cubby right in front of the steering wheel, used a beany hat as a cushion holder for it. Ideal place for it.

With the year you looking at it should come with a rear seat slide forward and back rest tilt. If you have rear passengers slide the seat back (smaller boot space) for more legroom, the backrest tilted as well for comfort.. If 2 going away slide the rear seat forward for more luggage space in the boot. The dashboard on that year of Yaris is brilliant - digital.

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Mileage has a lot to do with how a clutch 'feels'. New cars always have super light clutches and then as the miles build up the pedal hardens. I've never owned or known a car where that has not been the case although quite what the precise reason is for that effect I'm not sure. 

My own Auris (same 1.33L) has covered around 63k and is 9.5 yrs old now and I would describe the pedal as 'moderate' but that got put into perspective when I drove a new Kia Picanto. You could press the pedal with a feather on that car.

The biting point on mine is quite close to the floor and the take up is very smooth. Normally when the pedal bites at the top of its travel is when you start wondering whether there are problems as that signifies the friction material is well worn.

You need to try a few more, simple as that imo.

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The clutch pedal biting point is very low indeed on my 2006 1.3 Mk2. The car has only done 30K miles, and when I got the car I thought the hydraulic system had air in it for the pedal to bite so low down to the floor. Sometimes, the biting point can be so low, that it can be a pain to get it in reverse without grinding the gears, due to the clutch plate not 100% freeing from the flywheel with the clutch pedal fully to the floor. It seems this issue is "normal" for the mk2 Yaris, as its been highlighted on Honest John, where others have suggested that the clutch does not always compelety disengage the drive from the flywheel, and has a certain amount of difficulty getting gear changes without the pedal being mashed into the carpet.

I have tried bleeding clutch hydraulic circuit and this has had no effect the the low biting point, which is almost as if the slave cylinder piston just does not seem to push out far enough to completely move the pressure plate away from the flywheel, and there always seems to be a very slight element of drag on the clutch.

Over the 3 years I have had the car, the issue has got no worse, and I guess I have learned to live with it, and take time over gear changes, as first to second can be troublesome if it is attempted too quickly. My mk1 I used to have, had 70K miles on it and the biting point was much higher up the pedal, so it took some getting used to the finnicky clutch on the mk2.

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The clutch pedal biting point is very low indeed on my 2006 1.3 Mk2. The car has only done 30K miles, and when I got the car I thought the hydraulic system had air in it for the pedal to bite so low down to the floor. Sometimes, the biting point can be so low, that it can be a pain to get it in reverse without grinding the gears, due to the clutch plate not 100% freeing from the flywheel with the clutch pedal fully to the floor. It seems this issue is "normal" for the mk2 Yaris, as its been highlighted on Honest John, where others have suggested that the clutch does not always compelety disengage the drive from the flywheel, and has a certain amount of difficulty getting gear changes without the pedal being mashed into the carpet.
I have tried bleeding clutch hydraulic circuit and this has had no effect the the low biting point, which is almost as if the slave cylinder piston just does not seem to push out far enough to completely move the pressure plate away from the flywheel, and there always seems to be a very slight element of drag on the clutch.
Over the 3 years I have had the car, the issue has got no worse, and I guess I have learned to live with it, and take time over gear changes, as first to second can be troublesome if it is attempted too quickly. My mk1 I used to have, had 70K miles on it and the biting point was much higher up the pedal, so it took some getting used to the finnicky clutch on the mk2.
The clutch on my 2010 TR 1.33 has a normal biting point in the middle height, is the clutch arrangement different between the 1.3 and 1.33?



Sent from my Mi A2 Lite using Tapatalk

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Thanks guys for all the replies.

I tried another car yesterday (not a road test ) and the feel of the clutch was the same.

Another question is how easy/expensive for the satnav maps to be updated?

I have started to think that maybe a TR  would be a better option then install an Android head unit with sat nav and camera. The car is for my son so he would like that,  but there doesn't seem to be a huge difference in price.

thanks again

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Not sure what head unit was fitted then & whether updates were by CD, SD, USB or what. For the current range of head units once you get out of the 3 year foc period there are a range of options of which the best value is £199 for 3 years of map updates & connected services.

bear in mind that satnavs (& mobile phone) hardware has moved on a lot in 8 years ...

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1 hour ago, Heidfirst said:

 

bear in mind that satnavs (& mobile phone) hardware has moved on a lot in 8 years ...

Precisely my angle, if all I need to do now days with a smartphone is to say ' google take me to XX postcode' or take me to xx place  and away I go, why would I want to faff about with what can only be described as embryonic navigation system? Save your time, money and sanity.

In my humble opinion no sat nav that I ever tried is as good as Google maps or Waze.

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the car comes with a TNS410 Sat Nav which i gather is a bit of a nightmare

since then we have found a 12 reg trend which (i think) is the new shape and comes with the touch and go system.

Totally agree about the sat nav being outdated. knowing my son he will use waze. but its the bluetooth and, with the trend , the reverse camera that is of interest.

I agree you can add all that as a head unit, but he is 17 - its his first car  and he would rather have something that he can get in and drive rather than have to faff about with lol

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Choose another option with same model.

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Well we bit a different bullet

put a deposit on a 62reg 1.33 TR nice runner with fsh but a few scuffs, lower mileage but only £100 more as its a private sale

Thanks for all the help

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Good luck with the new car.

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