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Jxr400

Locked in 92 year old mother

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Help...59 plate t27¬† both back doors have locked from inside and out with old granny in itūüė°. Managed to pull her out the window...lots of fun..auto spark has ripped the rear right door panel off from inside with door shut still. Whole day later we still cant open it....10 days later he is blanking my calls still. Are we missing some special trick or am I gonna have to try cutting¬† doors off. Thanks jason

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The first thing is how exactly was the car locked. Does the car have two working keys. What spec is the car and does it have keyless entry, Also was the car double locked and child locks activated?
First check the batteries are good in the key fob. If the keys are working, do they make the indicators flash? Next is the fuse. According to my owners manual the fuse 24 in the fuse box in the passenger footwell, just beyond the glove storage box. The panel is further back and you leave the storage in place. Just remove the panel behind then the fuse box cover. The cover will show the location and rating of the fuse - Door 25 A. 
I forgot to ask if the car has been driven since the problem. Sometimes a nearby transmitter could be interfering with the signal.

If no luck then a decent auto electrician could find the problem. I know that diagnostics like Techstream can interrogate the door locks. 
I would forget the first auto electrician!

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The car is only ever locked by the fob..only 1 fob still need to get a spare . I use the back doors most days and the child locks was off and it's a keyless entry tspirit model.i would assume the fuse is ok as both front doors ¬†are fine so is the rear hatch door. When I try to use fob or drivers door unlock button the back door locks flick but stay locked. Going to check fuse now before I look stupidūüĎć the auto spark used his laptop and no fault¬† codes found¬† and he could control¬† the locks¬† from the laptop but only front 2 and rear hatch would work. But no errors for back¬† doors.

The locks on the inside of the rear doors are really  hard to push like a hard spring is connected to them and when you let them go they flick back locked. I still use the car for walking the dog but mot runs out end of December  so getting  desperate now. It had 1 owner with full history at same garage  when I got it but noticed  the  plastic sheet inside door has already  been taken off..nothing in paperwork about doors or locks so maybe it was a recall? .my Mercedes dealer dont give me any information  on warranty  work. 

Surely  Toyota  have a way to open it from inside..also I no nothing about deadlocks on it. How do you activate  them...with the key?.

Thanks   jason

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i have come across this on nissan's if you press the fob can you hear/feel the solenoid(s) working, have you removed the power (disconnecting the connectors in the doors)

if all else fails open the 2 front doors and disconnect the Battery but i assume that the sparks already did this (if the solenoids are locked removing the power should release them)

silly question the lockout button hasn't been pushed on the drivers side door switch

I take it you have disconnected the internal door handles ? if so does the yellow or blue internal cable push or pull ?

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Both the door looms was unplugged..as the spark shut the door on 1 and smashed the big plug off..we tried battery  disconnected  overnight. The driver door button opens boot and front doors fine and it clicks the rear solenoids. The green cable moves free and that is the chrome handle cable. The white  cable is lock switch and that is stiff to pull like it's under spring pressure..getting close to new doors and grinder for xmas. Thanks

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I can understand 1 door but both !!, before damaging the door i would pull the mech apart it sounds like the child locks are both in the mid position

Does the white cable move if you press the fob ?

Have you tried pulling the lock cable and pressing the fob while pulling the handle ?

 

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Still cant get the door loom plugged in after the spark smashed the plug off..can't  change loom without  opening  door..cant find a way to get lock apart while  in the door. Going  to order a double lock door control relay and 1 new door panel he smashed and a door loom..now finding lots of deadlock faults online so worth a try but as it's both back doors dont expect  it to work 

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Think the auto spark  was looking in wrong place..anyone know if this is the door locking relay...looks a little tired...I did tell the spark it had a new windscreen a few weeks ago and suspected it might be water but he went straight  to the door even though I said unlikely  they both went together unless it was electrical...am I on the right path anyone

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That is liquid damage... I've seen that countless times as an electronics tech on consumer equipment. It looks like there has been electrolysis occurring whereby voltage on the board causes a reaction. Don't be afraid of washing it, use hot water and washing up liquid and a soft brush. Rinse in hot water and dry. See how it looks then although I suspect it would need some work which without circuit details and component details is really a non starter. 

  

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Thanks. Just tried scrubbing  it up and still no luck..its only a tenner secondhand.

On further inspection  it is the deadlock control and the clips  was broken off on casing so assume Toyota  have been in it before and back door polythene  sheet has been off. Hope it is the cause of both back doors deadlocking

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I'd say you've a very good chance of it fixing it, and at £10 or so its not really worth faffing about with. Fingers crossed and get it swapped... good luck.  

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Shame the auto spark broke  the door panel and door loom..now I got to somehow connect the rear door loom for the control unit to un double lock the doors I suppose.  Maybe I should  send the spark my bill. Thanks..awaiting  eagerly  to try it when it gets delivered 

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That will do it - its not worth messing with at that price, so they got the door open and closed it again ? or did they bust the plug to the lock

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I hope the circuit board does the trick.

Thinking back to Jason's original post, grandma @ 92 must be pretty fit and agile to have been pulled out through the window.  Hope not too many bruises!

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Similar issue, both doors got stuck at lock position at the same time, taking the Battery off does nothing, inside latch does nothing etc, except it's on Auris.

Sadly the topic is without any conclusion, OP just stopped coming to forum.

If you had access to wiring diagram, you could isolate the wires to jump the power and try to get the door to unlock.

 

 

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17 hours ago, Jxr400 said:

Think the auto spark  was looking in wrong place..anyone know if this is the door locking relay...looks a little tired...I did tell the spark it had a new windscreen a few weeks ago and suspected it might be water but he went straight  to the door even though I said unlikely  they both went together unless it was electrical...am I on the right path anyone

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I checked on one of the sites I use and here is a diagram of the location and part number of the unit - 
image.thumb.png.f03d1c9f139093e1fea6d53973b42027.png image.thumb.png.b703be04e97879290cbbfee130ed7d11.png

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2008/avensis/zrt270r-aefnpw/2_273560_031_410W/electrical/8401_switch-relay-computer/3?pnn=85970A#85970A
There are other bits I would look at, like the drivers master lock. 
I have Techstream which can check the door lock settings. It may have confirmed the state of the system. If the auto electrician had used his diagnostics to see if the fault can be diagnosed, it may have saved on the guessing. Anyway that board doesn't look good.
I have the same car so have an interest in your problem, in case it happens to my car. 
There is one person I have seen diagnose stuff that have stopped so called professionals - YouTuber LM Auto Repairs. He does all sorts of cars and will solder ECU circuit boards to save money and time where possible. You need to find someone as good as him.
I have seen on Ebay that you can get a used control module from between £10 - £40. Part number 85970-20020. 
Hopefully the info will help you.

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On 12/9/2019 at 10:23 AM, flash22 said:

That will do it - its not worth messing with at that price, so they got the door open and closed it again ? or did they bust the plug to the lock

They broke the door loom plug that goes to back door by closing the drivers door with the plug in the way when it was unplugged ..unfortunately I can only find the left rear loom on ebay unless I want to order it from Lithuania that¬† will take ages...loads of left..no rightsūüė•

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On 12/9/2019 at 10:37 AM, Notoyboy said:

I hope the circuit board does the trick.

Thinking back to Jason's original post, grandma @ 92 must be pretty fit and agile to have been pulled out through the window.  Hope not too many bruises!

The window was the easiest  option..it took ages as she is a large old bird..4 of us made it safe

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On 12/9/2019 at 12:28 PM, Konrad C said:

I checked on one of the sites I use and here is a diagram of the location and part number of the unit - 
image.thumb.png.f03d1c9f139093e1fea6d53973b42027.png image.thumb.png.b703be04e97879290cbbfee130ed7d11.png

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2008/avensis/zrt270r-aefnpw/2_273560_031_410W/electrical/8401_switch-relay-computer/3?pnn=85970A#85970A
There are other bits I would look at, like the drivers master lock. 
I have Techstream which can check the door lock settings. It may have confirmed the state of the system. If the auto electrician had used his diagnostics to see if the fault can be diagnosed, it may have saved on the guessing. Anyway that board doesn't look good.
I have the same car so have an interest in your problem, in case it happens to my car. 
There is one person I have seen diagnose stuff that have stopped so called professionals - YouTuber LM Auto Repairs. He does all sorts of cars and will solder ECU circuit boards to save money and time where possible. You need to find someone as good as him.
I have seen on Ebay that you can get a used control module from between £10 - £40. Part number 85970-20020. 
Hopefully the info will help you.

As usual Hermes let me down on delivery  today so no news yet. The spark read fault  codes but showed  nothing as did my obd software.  Read that I need to program the double lock door control when I get it so ordered  techstream  just incase..hopefully  tomorrow  will be the answer. IF  the lock deadlock broke I still have no idea how to open it..making me panic now. I thought  once inside the door it woul6 be possible 

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If you have access to the inside of the door, is it not possible to disconnect the door lock from the relays operating it, and manually unlatch it?

Would make it easier to work on, if nothing

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Cant see anyway to un double lock it from inside...maybe  power up the locks through the plug..but if lock was broke  I would  be stumped  on how to open it. Cant imagine you can  smash or cut the lock out from inside. As both doors went together  I think its probably  the control unit water damage occurred  when I was driving...is it the double locks that come on when i drive?..hopefully  hermes will be here anytime now to get my answer 

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You could pulse the solenoid with 12v if you can find the colour codes (maybe the same as a rav4 of the same vintage) if its just 1 plug  you can just re-pin the connector  or cut and splice in a plug/loom - any door loom will do the trick then

shame you are not more local

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The spark was trying  to jump it from the plug but didn't  know the wires..think he must have been crap iam sure google could have told him the pins to jump.

Still no Hermes  delivery  even though  it was paid as guaranteed yesterday  morning..hopefully  by xmas I will sort  it

Plus side my techstream turned upūüĎć

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It's usually the 2 larger wires on the corners (top row larger pins) you need both wires as the polarity is swapped for open and close, its very simple you only need to pulse the solenoid for a few seconds otherwise you will burn it out

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If Hermes  dont turn up tomorrow  I think  that is my next step..getting impatient now. Thanks 

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