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Rear Wheel Bearing Removal


bluepeter
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Hi, I need to change one of the rear wheel bearing on our 04 Yaris, it was an advisory on the MOT and it's noisy.

I cannot remove the bearing from the hub though.

I've undone all the relevant bolts and the sensor and drowned where the hub and bearing meet in plus gas.

Just now I made up a 'tool' which also didn't remove the bearing.

The tool was a 2ft long piece of angle iron with two holes drilled in it. I put the iron against the hub so two of the wheel studs poked through the holes. I put two nuts back on the two wheel studs.

Using a lump hammer I then gave the iron a few smacks. All this did was to cause the iron to bend rather than draw the bearing out through the hub.

I've looked at bearing pullers but I don't see that they would work in this case as they seem to work by pressing down in their middle.They would just end up pushing down on the centre of the bearing.

So, any ideas what else I can try?

 

 

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My 04 Yaris similarly had an MOT advisory and I replaced the hub and bearing unit. My hub/bearing unit was totally stuck and I freed it by slackening off the 4 bearing bolts about 8mm only and then used a socket with a 1ft long socket extension on the bolts with a lump hammer to knock and free the hub. You need to go from corner to corner alternately and progressively loosen the hub perhaps unscrewing the bolts a little more to ensure that the bolt head is clear of the hub, so can loosen it. The bolt heads have a flange and seem made for this method of persuasion!

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I did mine last year, not sure if yours is the same but unlike the front where you have to remove the bearing from the hub, the rear is Hub and bearing combined. Its an easy job to do, four bolts hold the hub. I found it easier to release the hub removing the ABS sensor as the hub came out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is a picture of the hub/bearing which I cannot be removed from the axle. As Scannerman says, the hub and bearing are one unit. I have undone the four bolts on the rear of the hub so there are no fixings securing the hub to the axle but still the hub/bearing cannot be removed from the axle, it must be stuck with rust.

 

Could someone explain how I can use a puller in this case?

20200101_132558.jpg

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Heat may help, it will expand the metals and hopefully when hot will allow the puller system to release, maybe with a bit of heavy hammer work as Weill.

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I've tried plenty of hammer. Would I DIY blowtorch be enough to generate the required heat?

Where would a puller be placed? 

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Blow torch ok, just don’t hold in one place too long, heat evenly.                
Is it a 4 leg puller, or two?      I be inclined to try the inner, narrower, parts first.

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The hardest wheel bearings I had to remove, were the Prius 2 hubs. The only blessing, was that the hub carrier could be removed to, which made it easy to use a sledge hammer. Pure brute force was needed to separate the bearing from the carrier. When I changed the rear hub bearing on my old Mk1 '98 Avensis (same design bearing), it was easy. Undid the bolts and swapped the bearing over. That was about 10 years ago! 
I found this video - 

 

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hi folks, interesting I also had hub bearing wich did not want to be removed, I gave it a good spray with w.d.40 next day slide hammer removed it with ease.

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Hi,

 

I have done it this way, it is sooooo much easier than trying to beat the hell out of it, nip to Wickes or wherever and buy the same type of nuts and bolts that he is using, this way is so much quicker, it will be off in 5 minutes and cost you around a fiver.

 

 

Had to do 1 last year, spent 2 hours beating it with a sledge, failed, then put some thought into it and came up woth similar idea to this, this absolutely works, i did it the same way and it was off in 5 minutes.

Good luck.

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Thanks for the above Video, another member also directed me to that.

Before I saw that message/video of using the bolt and nut method I made an online purchase of a pair of 18 inch stilsons. When these arrive I will try grabbing the edge of the bearing/hub from which the wheel bolts protrude, and then hitting the end of stilsons will a sledge hammer.

if that doesn't work I'll go with the brains over brain bolt and nut method.

When I finally removed the hub/bearing I'll be cleaning up the mating face with my dremel and coating it in plenty of copped grease.

We're getting about two years from these eBay bearings but at circa £25 they are better value than the genuine Toyota ones which were near £200 from memory.

Thanks for everyone's help, I'll report back when I have some progress to report.

 

Pete 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Some good videos and tips. It is clear there are two methods of fastening the hub to the back plate. Some bolt from the back side like our 04 T spirit French made, and some bolt from the front through holes in the drum plate. This will explain conflicting advice about removing stuck hubs!

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Its one of those jobs what is hard to explain - if you use the "ears" of the hub (where the hub bolts to the upright) and hit them with a cold chisel or punch you with get the hub to rotate that will break the rust.i have done quite a few bearings on cars over the years

sma has some good generic videos on wheel bearings

i will see if i can find one

around 5 min in

GM but the same sort of method

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  • 5 months later...

My 2005 Yaris Rear Bearing Needed Changing, I Got Two 1.25 X40mm Bolts From Toolstation, These Were Inserted In Hub And Easily Withdrew The Hub For Me, Luckily Bearing Was Very Easy To Remove And Replace.

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