Wiring up DRL mini lights to my Aygo

[eygo]

if it is switched ground then you could use the same relay and wire it up differently

pin 30 & 85 both ignition live feed

pin 87a is still +12v for drl's

pin 86 connected to sw ground wire off the headlight bulb

pins 85 & 86 are for the switching coil and have to have 12v & ground supply's

pin 30 is an input & 87 ,87a are the outputs

dont forget you can put +12v or -12v through pin 30 what goes in comes out.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Hi Rajiv,

Thank you again for all your input, much appreciated.

I tried tapping in to the common anyway, too see if it would work.

Basically if I tap into the white low beam on the headlight holder...I get no drl light up on start up but do upon switching on sidelights etc.

And if I tap into the common I get drl light up on start up and remain on upon switching sidelights on Etc.

Sadly my hands were too cold to attempt tapping into sidelight positive..minus 1 working in very tight spaces is no joke! 
 

I then read your updated threads re.installing a Seperate relay...I hate relays...and opted for your previous bit of advice...left the orange wire disconnected! 
 

I cable tired all my wiring nice and neat including the dreaded orange and shut my bonnet. Enough for one day lol. Least I tried. I’m glad I opted for this module rather than a relay, just a shame it didn’t work out. Will I get into trouble if my drl’s are on constant whilst on the road or come mot time in March? They’re hardly bright if I’m honest, cheap and cheerful though.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

1 minute ago, eygo said:

if it is switched ground then you could use the same relay and wire it up differently

pin 30 & 85 both ignition live feed

pin 87a is still +12v for drl's

pin 86 connected to sw ground wire off the headlight bulb

pins 85 & 86 are for the switching coil and have to have 12v & ground supply's

pin 30 is an input & 87 ,87a are the outputs

dont forget you can put +12v or -12v through pin 30 what goes in comes out.

In English please! Gosh that’s a lot to take in. With trade I only paid £20.00 o4 less for my drl’s, had I have paid 50.00+ for some drl’s I would have paid somebody to complete the wiring bit, too much hassle for what they are. Apologies for troubling you guys!

[SimonIG10]

 Can you not take a feed from the fuse box using one of those piggy back connectors on the fuse that controls the sidelights? So when power goes to the sidelights, it switches off the DRLs. It looks like F6 does this in the engine fuse box (behind the battery)

I hope this doesnt add extra confusion but thought is was worth a mention.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

11 minutes ago, SimonIG10 said:

 Can you not take a feed from the fuse box using one of those piggy back connectors on the fuse that controls the sidelights? So when power goes to the sidelights, it switches off the DRLs. It looks like F6 does this in the engine fuse box (behind the battery)

I hope this doesnt add extra confusion but thought is was worth a mention.

Hi Simon, I could try that, piggy back is an option OR is it safe to test it by wrapping the orange lead wire once stripped around the fuse and placing it back in? If so Does it need to be wrapped around one tip of the fuse or both?

[SimonIG10]

I wouldn’t wrap around both legs of the fuse. To test it I would use a meter to make sure there is only 12v when the lights are on. If you have to, just wrap one leg of the fuse, preferably the protected side. Without a meter this will be difficult to determine. 

[rajivrattna]

On 1/19/2020 at 9:36 PM, SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS said:

Hi Rajiv,

Thank you again for all your input, much appreciated.

I tried tapping in to the common anyway, too see if it would work.

Basically if I tap into the white low beam on the headlight holder...I get no drl light up on start up but do upon switching on sidelights etc.

And if I tap into the common I get drl light up on start up and remain on upon switching sidelights on Etc.

Sadly my hands were too cold to attempt tapping into sidelight positive..minus 1 working in very tight spaces is no joke! 
 

I then read your updated threads re.installing a Seperate relay...I hate relays...and opted for your previous bit of advice...left the orange wire disconnected! 
 

I cable tired all my wiring nice and neat including the dreaded orange and shut my bonnet. Enough for one day lol. Least I tried. I’m glad I opted for this module rather than a relay, just a shame it didn’t work out. Will I get into trouble if my drl’s are on constant whilst on the road or come mot time in March? They’re hardly bright if I’m honest, cheap and cheerful though.

Sorry that it did not work the way we wanted it to. At the time of MOT just pull out the DRL fuse and it will not come on during the MOT, so no fears of failing the MOT because of the DRL.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

16 hours ago, rajivrattna said:

Sorry that it did not work the way we wanted it to. At the time of MOT just pull out the DRL fuse and it will not come on during the MOT, so no fears of failing the MOT because of the DRL.

Dear Rajiv,

please do not apologise, you’ve been a great wealth of knowledge to me, I love to learn as I take on new projects.

Thank you for everything.

p.s I’m happy with my drl’s on all the time, make my car look cool, whilst serving a purpose!

[Brn]

Hi Fellow Toyota people,

I stumbled upon this thread by accident and was compelled to read on.

I had looked at the control box mentioned here, because of this video 

I never actually got to making a decision on it.

Would the T27 be negative switched as well? Is this to do with where the car was made? (Japan, Europe etc.)

@SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS
Have you completed the DLR install?

[SimonIG10]

Im interested in fitting these on my daughters Aygo but its the negative switching thats a worry. Ive not checked it, just read about it. Ive installed a similar setup on my MX5 and that is positive switching so quite simple. I didnt use the LED black box (my version was DOA) and instead used a standard relay. I also put a voltage stabiliser in the feed to the DRL LEDs as voltage can go above 12v (as alternator charges) which apparently shortens the life of the LEDs.

Regarding the negative switching, are we saying that the lights are permanenty live and switching on the lights grounds them? In the above, surely the only issue then is the orange trigger wire which is there to switch OFF the DRLs when the lights come on (in the above this is via the black box but can be on a relay)? On my MX5 I scotch blocked the orange wire to the sidelight feed on one side so as soom as they were switched on, the feed was cut to the DRLs. My power connection was using a piggy back on the fuse board,

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

On 10/6/2020 at 1:11 PM, Brn said:

Hi Fellow Toyota people,

I stumbled upon this thread by accident and was compelled to read on.

I had looked at the control box mentioned here, because of this video 

I never actually got to making a decision on it.

Would the T27 be negative switched as well? Is this to do with where the car was made? (Japan, Europe etc.)

@SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS
Have you completed the DLR install?

Hi there,

I did complete my install some time ago, when I say complete I mean they...my drl's...switch on when I start my car and remain on when I drive...and go off when I switch off my car.

Thats as far as I went with this project.

I'm sure someone with more intellect will figure how to get them to operate as they should, I.e switch on with side lights on etc

Best of luck

[PetrolDave]

I just used a changeover relay with the DRLs connected to the normally closed contacts and the coil connected to the sidelights - so when the sidelights turn on the DRLs turn off. Simples!

[flash22]

On 10/8/2020 at 5:19 PM, SimonIG10 said:

Im interested in fitting these on my daughters Aygo but its the negative switching thats a worry. Ive not checked it, just read about it. Ive installed a similar setup on my MX5 and that is positive switching so quite simple. I didnt use the LED black box (my version was DOA) and instead used a standard relay. I also put a voltage stabiliser in the feed to the DRL LEDs as voltage can go above 12v (as alternator charges) which apparently shortens the life of the LEDs.

Regarding the negative switching, are we saying that the lights are permanenty live and switching on the lights grounds them? In the above, surely the only issue then is the orange trigger wire which is there to switch OFF the DRLs when the lights come on (in the above this is via the black box but can be on a relay)? On my MX5 I scotch blocked the orange wire to the sidelight feed on one side so as soom as they were switched on, the feed was cut to the DRLs. My power connection was using a piggy back on the fuse board,

Note that op and the video are for an Avensis

The (black box) is just a relay, the lights in some Toyota's are negative switched aka ground side control eg. power to the bulb negative goes through the switch

The single wire above is just a switch wire to turn the relay on/off

If that "Black Box" just uses a Positive trigger just rewire the box or  Ditch the box and use a relay