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Engine not starting


Gc01
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Hi everyone I have a 2001 Yaris and yesterday I started it after a while and it started. I drove it about 30 yards and it just cut out and I tried to start it again and only the oil light and Battery light came on. Today I put 5 litres of petrol thinking its probably just out of fuel. I tried starting it and it worked and then it stopped and it has 2 bars of petrol now. But it only has the oil light and Battery light when the key is in the on position. Also before I used to hear a whining noise when the key was in the on position I can't hear that another more all I hear is a clicking noise when I try to start this. Does anyone know what's causing this.

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I'm guessing you dont have a habbit of putting too much petrol in the car and drive it until the reserve light shows up?

If yes, this can lead to premature pump failure.

I would take the hose off from the engine, and put in some bottle, to see if it works or not.

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I'd suggest a poor electrical connection somewhere between the Battery and starter motor. If you try to start it with the headlamps on, do they dim considerably or extinguish?

 

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I can hear the starter motor going. And the thing is with this car is that it stays in the driveway coz it has no mot, tax or insurance, I fill it up with 5 litres so it can have something in the tank. It probably is and the annoying this is pumps are expensive but this has never happened with this car

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Could be some clog, or fuel filter if it has one. I would not write it off so fast. You can always connect the pump to 12v and see how it runs.

Anyway first you should check if it pumps the fuel towards the engine or not, might be another thing entirely.

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old fuel, modern fuels degrade with in 6 months, cars dont do well when parked up  for too long

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I drove it about 30 yards

 

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And the thing is with this car is that it stays in the driveway coz it has no mot, tax or insurance

even if its on private land you can still get nicked for driving, 6 points and £300 fine plus other fines like no tax is £80

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It's SORN and so I usually just keep it on a trickle charger. The fuel that was in it before was another 5 litres I bought from a Shell station so Im not worried

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You need spark and fuel, if you dont know how to check these are getting to the engine yourself, you'll need professional or knowledgable friends help. What is easy to check, is get someone to turn the the engine ie try and start it while you look at the alternator and see if its being turned by the drive belt, if it is then the starter motor is turning the engine over.

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ive deduced its something to do with the fuel system because it cranks but it doesnt fire making me think there is no petrol getting to it, also i tried starting it and then had a look at a spark plug and it was clean, didnt have any unburned petrol

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Before you jump to conclusions, are you getting a spark? You've had a plug out, so connect it and get someone to crank the engine while checking it sparks.

 

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So at 7:55pm I took off the negative terminal and at 8:25pm I put it back on. Then I left it overnight to charge and at 9:45 this morning I cranked it and it started. My guess is something was up with the ECU and removal of the terminal cleared it or the Battery did not have enough power to give the fuel pump enough power

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Or its just a duff Battery, electronics do strange things when they are fed lower voltages than the full 12V

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  • 3 weeks later...

So I have an update on the situation. The day it work I took it for a quick drive and it was fine. Then a week later I took it out for a drive and it was fine then again left it a week on charge and on Sunday I took it for a drive it was working to an extent. The car was juddering while we were driving it. Went it got to low RPMS in neutral it needed a few revs to stop it from stalling. Then I took it home and checked today and was driving down the road and it cut out at about 15 mph it was on a hill so I let it coast down and in to my road then I tried to start it a good 3-4 times and it wasn't having it so I had to push it home. And now it's on the trickle charger and I have no leads I've gotta take it to the mechanic

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so its taxed, Mot'd and insured, it's a weak Battery and the alternator isn't charging - its just running out of electricity that's all

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Lead batteries have poor durability especially when left idle for too long. After 8 years with intermittent use, I think it's due for a change and it's easy to do. After that if you still have issues, testing the alternator would be the next item on the list. I remember a while ago when I had similar problem, I tightened and eventually changed the belt driving the alternator. Maybe two years later I ended changing the alternator when the car was ~10 years (2006 yaris).

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Batteries die !!! Due to the water loosing its ability to hold charge (the deionized water turns into acid when a current is passed through it) also due to the acid the lead plates degrade, the voltage may read fine but its current holding ability declines

4-6 years is about right for a lead acid Battery

You may get some more life out of it, if you drain the Battery, refill it with deionized water and slowly charge it (only use proper deionized water - £1.50 for 2.5l from Asda)

Battery acid is highly corrosive do this at your own risk

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I understand that batteries die but it has no problem holding a charge. I agree that it probably is to do with the alternator but the problem is electrical meaning it could be anything

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1 hour ago, flash22 said:

Batteries die !!! Due to the water loosing its ability to hold charge (the deionized water turns into acid when a current is passed through it) also due to the acid the lead plates degrade, the voltage may read fine but its current holding ability declines

4-6 years is about right for a lead acid battery

You may get some more life out of it, if you drain the battery, refill it with deionized water and slowly charge it (only use proper deionized water - £1.50 for 2.5l from Asda)

battery acid is highly corrosive do this at your own risk

Car batteries are usually sealed so they don't lose water and one shouldn't attempt to fill them. What makes them lose their capacity is the formation of crystals which prevent reaction to occurs (what generates the current). Some chargers feed burst of current to "revive" Battery and supposedly break down the crystals. Using the Battery can also revive it so a few cycle of discharge and charge will improve the behavior but ultimately the Battery will need to be changed soon. Also the terminals (inside) can be affected but that's out of my expertise - see grid corrosion.

35 minutes ago, Gc01 said:

I understand that batteries die but it has no problem holding a charge. I agree that it probably is to do with the alternator but the problem is electrical meaning it could be anything

Charge (floating tension/voltage) =/= capacity. If you want to properly test if a battery "holds" a charge, you must test it under a load. A dead battery will lose very quickly its potential (voltage) under load so it may appear fine when you measure the tension without anything plugged to it (floating voltage) but will not output any current underload (the voltage will just plummet but come back to ok value when you remove the load).

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I'm just gonna have the mechanic come and take a look at it. Because it's best to know for definite what is wrong than just speculating 

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