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Engine not starting


Gc01
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The higher the current draw the lower the voltage will drop, even more so with a poor Battery anything below 9 volt the ecu will shut down and the coils and injector may not fire, if they do they will be weak

Scan tools need a good voltage/current supply, my Launch and both my Autel's like more than 10+ volts and the Delphi and Techstream like 11.5v

There is plenty of experience users on these forums

 

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I'm coming to think this guy is just a wind up, 'Junk yard battery' Guess why its in a junk yard?

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17 hours ago, scannerman said:

You may be right in most of what you said, but when starting, the power from the battery needs to be very high. Even a little drop in performance from the battery will inhibit starting. I have unsuccessfully tried jumping a car from a good supply because of weak jumper cables also failed to start on a push start. All started with a fresh installed battery.

Unless you are going to junk the car, you are going to need a new battery, it will eliminate a possible cause, there maybe more than one thing preventing the engine starting, eliminating possibles would make sense.

One problem with trying to get it started when the starting system is weak, is you could be flooding the engine each time you try and it doesn't fire immediately, once flooded its difficult to get it to start even if everything is OK.

I just tested the Battery with a multimeter it was 12.53/.54 i dont see the drop in power

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You cannot conduct a meaningful test by using just a multimeter!

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51 minutes ago, stantheman1 said:

You cannot conduct a meaningful test by using just a multimeter!

Why not

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5 hours ago, scannerman said:

I'm coming to think this guy is just a wind up, 'Junk yard battery' Guess why its in a junk yard?

I meant a refurbed Battery. happy? 

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1 hour ago, Gc01 said:

I meant a refurbed battery. happy? 

You can't refurbish batteries, you can do things like reacid it but it won't last long. Once its %$(ed, its %$(ed.

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8 hours ago, flash22 said:

The higher the current draw the lower the voltage will drop, even more so with a poor battery anything below 9 volt the ecu will shut down and the coils and injector may not fire, if they do they will be weak

Scan tools need a good voltage/current supply, my Launch and both my Autel's like more than 10+ volts and the Delphi and Techstream like 11.5v

There is plenty of experience users on these forums

 

Ok im buying a Battery tomorroww from eurocarparts. 

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19 minutes ago, scannerman said:

You can't refurbish batteries, you can do things like reacid it but it won't last long. Once its %$(ed, its %$(ed.

ok second hand 

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3 hours ago, Gc01 said:

Why not

A dedicated Battery tester will test your Battery amongst other things for 'cold cranking amps' status, it compares the spec on the Battery with the actual output your battery is able to produce, a multimeter will not give you that info. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autool-Battery-Checker-Charging-Analyzer/dp/B071NS74YK/ref=asc_df_B071NS74YK/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310744208542&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5220435035202827615&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046675&hvtargid=pla-465567139144&psc=1

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1 hour ago, stantheman1 said:

A dedicated battery tester will test your battery amongst other things for 'cold cranking amps' status, it compares the spec on the battery with the actual output your battery is able to produce, a multimeter will not give you that info. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autool-Battery-Checker-Charging-Analyzer/dp/B071NS74YK/ref=asc_df_B071NS74YK/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310744208542&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5220435035202827615&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046675&hvtargid=pla-465567139144&psc=1

at this point im gonna get a new because ive had this RAC for 6 year ish im not sure, my dad had the car before and the RAC was second hand so i think after everyones recommendations ill just change it plus with the past few storms i dont think that the Battery has faired well

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17 hours ago, Gc01 said:

at this point im gonna get a new because ive had this RAC for 6 year ish im not sure, my dad had the car before and the RAC was second hand so i think after everyones recommendations ill just change it plus with the past few storms i dont think that the battery has faired well

Good, but this maybe just the start. Once in, check it turns over healthily, if it doesn't start, get the plugs out, clean em and check they spark, use YouTube to see how. If all is well then find the fuel supply pipe to the injectors. Disconnect the pipe and turn the engine over, is fuel coming out? If yes and it still won't start then I recommend you get professional help. ps. be careful with !Removed! the plugs back in, do it gently, don't crossthread them, you wouldn't be the first.

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4 hours ago, scannerman said:

Good, but this maybe just the start. Once in, check it turns over healthily, if it doesn't start, get the plugs out, clean em and check they spark, use YouTube to see how. If all is well then find the fuel supply pipe to the injectors. Disconnect the pipe and turn the engine over, is fuel coming out? If yes and it still won't start then I recommend you get professional help. ps. be careful with !Removed! the plugs back in, do it gently, don't crossthread them, you wouldn't be the first.

So i put the Battery in and its hasnt started. But im gonna take it off the power for 30 mins see if that will clear anything that might be !Removed! with the ecu

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But as i said before i cant hear the fuel pump priming, it should get a noise when the key is in the on position 

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I think im gonna get an auto electrician to look at the ecu because normally when i tuen the key to the on position it shows the Battery light the oil light, the check engine light abs etc but it hasnt for the past few weeks and those are the weeks it hasnt turned over even with a new Battery. Ive removed the negative terminals several time to reset the ecu but nothing. The plugs still spark. All i see is the oil light with the abs and power steering light thats all it should show more. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
23 hours ago, mode11 said:

@Gc01 What was the hidden fuse for? Where was it located? 

it was for  Alternator warning lamp, engine management, fuel pump relay, multifunction display, SRS warning lamp, supplementary restraint system (SRS). and it was located in the fuse box in the passenger/ driver compartment. the fuses location is in the top left of it and its quite obscure to actually see. but its a 15A if that helps

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You've got to wonder why the fuse had blown in the first place and if no one's been messing then chances are it'll go again as fuses just don't blow for no reason.Prime candidate imo would  then be the fuel pump as the current draw would be considerably higher if it was faulty..(Not sure on how much current is drawn by the seat belt restraint system and the power used by any of the warning lights will be minuscule.)  

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