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Gc01

Engine not starting

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On 2/7/2020 at 1:52 PM, flash22 said:

If the alternator is not charging as soon as you disconnect the other power it will die or shortly after

The car is more than likely flooded now, so it needs to be flood cleared - foot flat to the floor on the gas and crank it - this disables the injectors to clear the cylinders

it wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and inspect them either - i expect there be sooted and/or wet

Flooded as in full of gasoline?

I didn't know you could disable the injector that way!

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If you push the pedal down in normal motion you will feel a bit more resistance at the end of travel this cuts the injector allowing the cylinders to clear the unburnt fuel

if you crank an engine over with no/weak spark the injectors still spray, the fuel will soak the plugs if there is too much fuel effectively killing the spark, if it does fire you end up with a backfire

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19 hours ago, mooder said:

Dude you jumped the car which means that you used another car healthy battery to power your car's starter. I think you should change the battery because it's old but at this point, if you properly jumped the car and it didn't start, I'd assume the issue is something else (the starter).

No it didn't start when I was jumping it, it started it after a bit on the trickle charger

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So here is a spark plug, think it needs changing

15811547847056200679517584486473.jpg

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Gap looks massive.  Have you got a set of feeler gauges so you can measure the gap. Do you know what the gap should be?  The tip doesnt look a bad colour.

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Its been wet, the centre electrode is fairly worn, re gap the plugs would help and a scrub with brass wire brush or hard nylon brush, if not replace them

With the amount of Oil on/around that plug i would say that it needs a cam cover gasket (its just old and gone crispy)

Edit. Plug gap 1.0-1.1mm (1L and 1.3L) if its a jap built 1.0 its 0.8mm

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On 2/8/2020 at 12:14 PM, flash22 said:

Its been wet, the centre electrode is fairly worn, re gap the plugs would help and a scrub with brass wire brush or hard nylon brush, if not replace them

With the amount of oil on/around that plug i would say that it needs a cam cover gasket (its just old and gone crispy)

Edit. Plug gap 1.0-1.1mm (1L and 1.3L) if its a jap built 1.0 its 0.8mm

Its been in since october 2018 and the car has been turned on a handful of times. so I think its just got muck on it and im gonna service it as soon as possible

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I think the fundamental problem is the fuel pump because i cant hear it whirring when i turn the key to the on position

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I've never heard my fuel pump before when switching on, so may not indicate that its failed. Looking at the plug, the centre electrode looks worn, but if its cleaned up with a wire brush and gapped it should still work reasonably well. As I have said before, if you want to check fuel supply, ie the pumps pumping, disconnect the fuel pipe between pump and engine and see if you get fuel while starting the engine.

Just a thought, you have got fuel in the tank? it may seem a stupid question but you wouldn't be the first.

There are many reasons for an engine not to start, what we have described is pretty basic and if you are having trouble dealing with what we are talking about, you are going to struggle if its something else. The mechanical systems in engines has over the years have become very reliable, the most common problems tend to be electrical.

 

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On 2/8/2020 at 4:16 PM, scannerman said:

I've never heard my fuel pump before when switching on, so may not indicate that its failed. Looking at the plug, the centre electrode looks worn, but if its cleaned up with a wire brush and gapped it should still work reasonably well. As I have said before, if you want to check fuel supply, ie the pumps pumping, disconnect the fuel pipe between pump and engine and see if you get fuel while starting the engine.

Just a thought, you have got fuel in the tank? it may seem a stupid question but you wouldn't be the first.

There are many reasons for an engine not to start, what we have described is pretty basic and if you are having trouble dealing with what we are talking about, you are going to struggle if its something else. The mechanical systems in engines has over the years have become very reliable, the most common problems tend to be electrical.

i definitely have fuel in the tank, i have 2 bars on fuel gauge. and every time when i turn the car on i can usually hear something working i think its the fuel pump, you might have a different system with yours being a 2010 model and mine a 2001. Yeah the problem is probably electric considering it just shut off it has to be electric. gonna push start it tomorrow and see if that will force the electrics to work

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I dont think pushing it will do what you want, electrics either work or they don't. Another way to test the fuel supply is to remove the aircleaner housing at the throttle body, squirt some fuel into the throttle body while someone turns over the engine on the starter. If you don't want to mess about with fuel, you can buy a spray can of easystart to spray into the throttle body while the engine is being turned over. If the engine fires,even for just a second, then the spark is there and you need to look at the fuel supply.

 

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Fix the elephant in the room first - The Battery

You can't fault find and fix a car if the power source is not there, no matter how you charge if the Battery is done its DONE !!

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On 2/8/2020 at 5:51 PM, flash22 said:

Fix the elephant in the room first - The battery

You can't fault find and fix a car if the power source is not there, no matter how you charge if the battery is done its DONE !!

if that was the problem then why didnt it start when i tried to jump start it with Another Battery that was in another car?

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Although you're right, if all things were right it would start with a jump. If jumping it improved its ability to turn over then it needs a new Battery. So when you do fix it, guess what, you're going to have to get a new Battery because the one you've got won't hold a charge and will let you down. You may as well bite the bullit and get it first, at least it will be easier to find the real fault and will eliminate the old one. I see that you are in Yorkshire, if there is any weakness in your old Battery, one good freeze over night will probably finally kill it, it never fails in sunny old London let alone up there.

 

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WHY, because when you are cranking a car the voltage drops as the current rises, If the Battery is weak the voltage drops below a threshold where electronic do not work and relays chatter

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If you have or you can borrow  voltmeter you can check if the Battery is charging. you sould get 13,5  to 14 Volts with  a couple of thousand revs.

If you had the Battery for 8 years then it's probably due for replacement. The original batteries, exhausts and other ancilliaries seem to last a long time but the replacements not so long.

When I had Battery problems with our Yaris I had a cheapo digital voltmeter that plugged into the cigar lighter socket which you cab see whilst driving, Turned out to  be the alternator.

Don

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So had the mechanic check it and the engine isnt sending off a signal to the ECU. So my car might be dead. im gonna try push start it to force it because last it worked.

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On 2/27/2020 at 12:17 PM, Gc01 said:

So had the mechanic check it and the engine isnt sending off a signal to the ECU. So my car might be dead. im gonna try push start it to force it because last it worked.

Faulty crank sensor (common) or camshaft sensor.

Any competent mechanic knows that.

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Yeah but what i mean is he could not connect to the ecu with his obd scanner to see if there are any codes or anything.

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Change the $%^%$%£ Battery

  • Haha 1

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how the ubik is a Battery gonna fix a **** ecu

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A dead Battery does not stop the car from starting even when its being jumped or push started. the Battery has enough to have the radio, lights, wipers and the rest working but the ECU is not connecting for some reason that isn't the Battery. if the Battery was the problem when i tried to jump it multiple times it would have started same when i push started it, it would've started and I looked at the light that the Battery gives off and its still green 

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You may be right in most of what you said, but when starting, the power from the Battery needs to be very high. Even a little drop in performance from the Battery will inhibit starting. I have unsuccessfully tried jumping a car from a good supply because of weak jumper cables also failed to start on a push start. All started with a fresh installed Battery.

Unless you are going to junk the car, you are going to need a new Battery, it will eliminate a possible cause, there maybe more than one thing preventing the engine starting, eliminating possibles would make sense.

One problem with trying to get it started when the starting system is weak, is you could be flooding the engine each time you try and it doesn't fire immediately, once flooded its difficult to get it to start even if everything is OK.

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How can i be flooding the engine if i cant hesr the fuel pump priming? 

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Ill try a Battery from the junk yard

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