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Auris High oil consumption


bluedove
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My Toyota Auris since I bought this has given me lots of problems which I keep going back and forth to garage to fix. 

Recent Issue I noticed is engine oil consumption. One day after coming back from work I checked engine oil stick as it was dry as if there is no drop of oil. I waited for 30 mins- and added some oil in it but think put too much. Took it back to garage and they removed extra oil. Problem is from day one - as I keep checking every few weeks and oil reading is so low on stick. I am unsure how much to add and why to add? as its not smoking and drives more or less smoothly.

Toyota Auris 1.33 2009.

I used to love my Auris but now its one problem after another. 

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If it drives fine just keep topping up oil and enjoy driving it. No need to worry to much, there are many Toyotas that consume oil. Repair is needed if you want to make it right, but is it necessary it’s your money and choice. 
Regards 

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Engine you have is problematic with oil consumption. According to Toyota, it's fine even if it uses 1L of oil per 1000 km.

Obviously, not really nice if you have to buy oil alongside the gasoline.

The car will run fine for the duration of this.

You can try one of those piston ring cleaners that you let soak overnight on your cylinders, or better have garage do it if you are unsure.

Other than that, not much you can do except pay a hefty sum since they need to take half of the engine apart.

If you bought the car recently, from a dealer, you can ask them to fix it, or ask your money back, up to 6 months from date of purchase.

You should check your consumption and compared to miles driven. For reference, difference between min and max on dipstick should be 1.2 or so, check your owners manual.

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I've used around 2.5 litres of oil in 6000 miles this last 12 months. Mileage is 64k. Three years ago a 1 litre top-up bottle would have just about kept things above the minimum mark over the same mileage, so things have suddenly got worse very quickly. Before that and I didn't add oil at all between services.

Car runs better than ever though and I like to think that the poor sealing of the oil control rings is actually giving less friction and more mpg/performance. Ha! I could probably even switch to a two year service regime as the engine is now continually supplied with fresh oil. And again Ha, Ha! 

 

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Has anyone tried magical work with Marvel mysterious oil or wd-40, any sorts of additives through the spark plugs holes? Seafoam as well as some additives in the new oil after change like engine stop leaks by wynns or stp? If you know what I am talking about and you want to try , there are some positive reviews and comments, however if you not familiar with ice (Internal combustion engine) and not a diy-er better not messing around. If you want to do so on your own risk, there is an example:

you can take the plugs out, insert 4 long screw drivers in each cylinder, put the car into 3 gear and push a bit until you level the screw drivers, so all pistons are in the middle of their  stroke.
Fill up with some of the above liquids marvel, sea foam or wd-40, 60ml in each hole and leave the car for overnight, after 8-10 hours check for remaining liquor inside, you can repeat that for another night or two. After 3th day remove the screw drivers, disconnect the fuel injectors and crank the engine without spark plugs installed for around 5 seconds, make sure there is no liquid inside the holes, wait for another 15 min and then insert the spark plugs and reconnect the injectors. Start the car and let it run for around 15-20 min on idle, a lot of white smoke may comes out of exhaust, it’s normal, also may run rough too, but will set itself once all carbon deposits inside been burned. Change the oil and oil filter with new, take the car for a motorway run , do some quick acceleration few times if possible, no need to go crazy and dangerous, just to load the engine. Drive the car as normal after that and check your oil level frequently, if oil still disappear out a bottle of stp engine stop leak inside the new oil and drive the car as usual. There is alway a risk getting things worse after doing that sort of magical work so remember, you are doing so on your own risk and do it only as a final solution before you are about to pay for engine rebuild or you are happy to dispose the car. Also you need to check or change PCV valve located somewhere on the intake manifold or camshaft cover. You can also change the oil to sport high performance oil for racing cars, oil has been designed to withstand higher temperatures and may well be a solution to reduce oil consumption,, all you need is visit https://www.opieoils.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkK-pkMO_5wIVh7TtCh3S-QN3EAAYASAAEgI0B_D_BwE, choose an oil 10w60 or 5w50 probably better and to be within the spec of the car, ACEA or AP same as Toyota recommend. 
Good luck 

D9D593FE-0B11-4932-8138-085EE206A57C.jpeg

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Get them to fix it. Mr T may say it is fine and within spec, but I as a consumer would find this totally unacceptable!! My car consumes around 1L of oil in 15k miles or so and I really abuse my car for example I had new semi synth oil at 40k, then changed at around 65k with semi synth, then changed at around 85k with fully synth and there is little to no oil consumption. 

Take it back and tell em to fix it or give your money back. If they won't give money back, part ex for another.

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On 2/8/2020 at 1:12 AM, ziauris said:

Get them to fix it. Mr T may say it is fine and within spec, but I as a consumer would find this totally unacceptable!! My car consumes around 1L of oil in 15k miles or so and I really abuse my car for example I had new semi synth oil at 40k, then changed at around 65k with semi synth, then changed at around 85k with fully synth and there is little to no oil consumption. 

Take it back and tell em to fix it or give your money back. If they won't give money back, part ex for another.

If Toyota say that level of consumption is normal then as far as the garage is concerned there is nothing to 'fix'. What are they supposed to do, put a new engine in an 11 year old car, then find it potentially consumes just as much oil as the old one?

My 1.6 uses even less oil than yours, but then the Auris 1.6 engines (in either vvti or Vmatic format) never were oil burners in the same way the 1.33 was.

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I think the figure of 1L/1000km has been in the handbook of every car I've ever had, Fords, Vauxhalls, Datsun, Audi and of course Toyota. Its just some ancient industry recognised figure that seems to be rolled out to cover every engine.

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I would try seafom, or a similar product, there are not enough cases of people actually trying to fix this issue, on this forum, and it's easy enough to do, soak overnight, crank tomorrow with plugs out to remove excess, put plugs back.

Would like to know if it actually helps, but at least on 'murican side of the ocean, they reported some success.

Other than that, heavier oil could somewhat reduce the consumption.

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2 hours ago, furtula said:

I would try seafom, or a similar product, there are not enough cases of people actually trying to fix this issue, on this forum, and it's easy enough to do, soak overnight, crank tomorrow with plugs out to remove excess, put plugs back.

Would like to know if it actually helps, but at least on 'murican side of the ocean, they reported some success.

Other than that, heavier oil could somewhat reduce the consumption.

Agreed 👍 Racing oil is theirs best bet. 

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On 2/9/2020 at 10:09 AM, yossarian247 said:

If Toyota say that level of consumption is normal then as far as the garage is concerned there is nothing to 'fix'. What are they supposed to do, put a new engine in an 11 year old car, then find it potentially consumes just as much oil as the old one?

My 1.6 uses even less oil than yours, but then the Auris 1.6 engines (in either vvti or Vmatic format) never were oil burners in the same way the 1.33 was.

didn't realise it was 2009 model, but a car should NOT consume 1L of oil in 1000 miles. if anyone buys a new car and it does this, they should reject it. 

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There is a history to this oil consumption issue. O2 sensor was replaced last year as engine light was showing Check Engine- upon replacing this sensor I noticed this engine oil issue- so I think both these issues are linked. When engine is not pushing oil or something engine light is lit and causing all these issues. what I nightmare this car is. 

 

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1.33L engine is problematic as it burns oil, it's a known issue with those.

We already advised some ways to try to remedy the issue. You can try some solution to unstick the pistonrings, or you can try heavier oil, which should reduce the consumption.

You should be aware that difference between min and max is around 1.2L or so, so if it goes below that line, that's a pretty substantial lack of oil.

Yes, it uses a lot of oil, but besides that the car should run fine, which is still better than busted engine that can't take you anywhere.

 

Personally i would try to use seafoam to get piston rings unstuck, procedure is easy enough.

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I'm not sure heavier oil would improve things tbh, and I'm speaking from actually using 5W30 Castrol. I do genuinely believe the engine has had a 'smoothness' to it for these last 12 months I've been using this oil, and fuel consumption is not noticeably worse, but the oil consumption is worse this year by some margin. Emissions tests have never shown any hint of a problem so far, everything is as low as can be on the printouts.

  

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Maybe try to unstuck the piston rings, you can use some oil stop leaks additive too and change the oil with higher temp one, like 0w50 , one guy in Mitsubishi forum said that those helped him reduce the oil consumption in lancer 1.6 which has exactly same issue as those Toyota engines. 
Regards 

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So i drive a 2011 1.33 VVTI Toyota Auris and it is currently sitting on 236000km.

Since it clocked 200 000km it has been using a bit of oil in between services maybe 1L every 10 000km which does not bother me much.

Car gets driven hard and VVTI is used properly.
Its has been reliable and faultless.
I use Shell Helix HX5 15W40 which is the OIL that has been used by Toyota since new so i am sticking to it.

I am now doing my Oil & filters(Air & Oil) every 10 000km since it clocked 200 000km.

Sent from my SM-A307FN using Tapatalk

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As I understand it, the oil consumption is a design fault on the pistons.....the holes in the ring groove behind the oil control ring are too small and oil cant drain through and back into the sump. The hole size is probably just about ok when the engine was new and free of carbon etc, but after a few years of use the holes in the piston become clogged with carbon, the oil in the ring land cant drain so its burnt in combustion.

One of the best cleaning oils is automatic trans fluid. If you can get a small bottle of atf, remove the spark plugs, put a spoon full of atf down each spark plug hole and leave it to soak for as long as poss, Then pop your spark plugs back in and start your can up.

It`ll smoke on start up for a couple of mins, it will soften the carbon in the piston top and ring land.

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11 hours ago, unclepoo said:

Then pop your spark plugs back in

I would crank the engine before refitting them.

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Has anyone done it yet ? 
I did once but not successful, I couldn’t wait more than one night so little to no difference. Start using Shell helix ultra after that and oil consumption has reduced a bit. The oil is higher class full synthetic, Eurocarparts sell it sometimes on good price through eBay, Amazon or carparts4less

Regards 

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  • 7 months later...
On 2/7/2020 at 12:54 PM, TonyHSD said:

Has anyone tried ...?

you can take the plugs out, insert 4 long screwdrivers in each cylinder, put the car into 3rd gear and push a bit until you level the screwdrivers, so all pistons are in the middle of their stroke.

D9D593FE-0B11-4932-8138-085EE206A57C.jpeg

TonyHSD, what length of screwdrivers did you use in the photo? If I'm going to buy four identical ones that I'll unlikely use again, I would like to get it right the first time. My quick calculation is 215mm for the ignition coil length, plus one half of the bore stroke is another 40mm. So, a 250mm or 260mm screwdriver. Does that sound about right?

My engine is 1NR-FE.

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Hi, I did use a 325mm screw drivers set as I remember,  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392274266028https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392274266028 bought specifically for that job but to be honest I used them few more times as a grab tool as they are magnetic and can reach tiny space in the engine bay when you have that small bolt just lost in, or perhaps you can use whatever u have handy, 260mm might do the job, Auris has an narrow body you need to take into account this alone can limit your space inserting long screw drivers. You,can try wd-40 too as soluble thing, make sure all cylinders are dry before putting back the plugs and start your engine, check with torch. 
Regards 

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