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Tel 2
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Is it me or does an Aygo take considerably more revs to move forward in first gear?

I have only driven in foul weather but in every situation I encountered the amount of revs was a surprise to me ?

Tel

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I've just bought one for my daughter and test drove a few and read some threads about it on this forum, as I thought there was something wrong, but apparently, this is just what they are like, apparently, it puts some people off buying one.

I had to explain to my daughter that it's not her driving technique, it's the Aygo.

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I've just bought one for my daughter and test drove a few and read some threads about it on this forum, as I thought there was something wrong, but apparently, this is just what they are like, apparently, it puts some people off buying one.
I had to explain to my daughter that it's not her driving technique, it's the Aygo.
I think its more the gearing plus having a small engine people have put a super charger on their aygo some claim is boost hp to 120 but sorts that issue out

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk

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It took me some getting used to after driving diesels that could pull away on tick over. You get used to it, after a while, and can pull away with a lot fewer revs than when you first got the aygo.🙂

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Thanks,Bill,that is exactly what I thought.

Tel

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It's a small capacity, higher revving engine with not much torque, the exact opposite of a modern turbo diesel, and it has high gearing. So yes you need to give it some beans if you want a more bank-robber style take-off. But it's for economy not boy racer inter traffic-light sprinting.

As mentioned, the £4000 blower kit from TTS can give over 130bhp with a freer flowing exhaust and a rechip, if that's what floats your boat....nice enough but I'd be interested to see how much it messes with the fuel economy. in reality. With the TTS kit fitted it has no lack of torque and will feel much more flexible.

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My comparison was with our Yaris.

I guess my Wife will learn quickly what revs are needed to nip across an island etcetera

Tel

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My daughters learning to drive and when i take her out in my Aygo she is always stalling it!

it seems these days they learn to drive without giving the engine revs before lifting the clutch!

as said there is no torque at tick over so stalling is enevitable. trying to get my daughter to apply some revs to pull away is hard when her instructor is saying you dont need revs!!!

its kind of old school driving technique with the Aygo, whereas most new cars dont need revs to get started!

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Giving it more revs, is better than stalling, surely even a driving instructor would agree with that !!

Get the instructor to take the Aygo for a spin 😄

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Overreving to start off is frequent. 
You have to give some gas if you want the car to move, even when maneuvering at very low speed. There is so little torque that the clutch alone is insufficient. The problem is that the clutch offers little feedback, resulting in jerky starts with either not enough or too much acceleration.
 
I personally find it hard to adjust the acceleration to start off. Like all cars with little torque, I often hear Aygos starting 'pedal to the medal' to prevent stalling, it is no wonder that clutches do not last long.
 
The technique is releasing the clutch slowly and accelerating only when it starts to bite.
 
On the Aygo mk1, the clutch bites high and the sound insulation is poor, which increases the sound perception. On the Aygo mk2, it is even worse: the response of the throttle pedal is imprecise, with a kind of drive-by-wire lag, the clutch pedal bites very high and all pedals are much too light.
 
The Aygo makes me feel an apprentice driver. Every time I drive it after driving a diesel car, I have to re-adapt. In town, it can be boring.
 
Maximum difficulty: starting off uphill, with the radio on loud covering the engine sound, with maximum load (3 passengers) and wearing thick-soled shoes.
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Overreving to start off is frequent.  You have to give some gas if you want the car to move, even when maneuvering at very low speed. There is so little torque that the clutch alone is insufficient. The problem is that the clutch offers little feedback, resulting in jerky starts with either not enough or too much acceleration.   I personally find it hard to adjust the acceleration to start off. Like all cars with little torque, I often hear Aygos starting 'pedal to the medal' to prevent stalling, it is no wonder that clutches do not last long.   The technique is releasing the clutch slowly and accelerating only when it starts to bite.   On the Aygo mk1, the clutch bites high and the sound insulation is poor, which increases the sound perception. On the Aygo mk2, it is even worse: the response of the throttle pedal is imprecise, with a kind of drive-by-wire lag, the clutch pedal bites very high and all pedals are much too light.   The Aygo makes me feel an apprentice driver. Every time I drive it after driving a diesel car, I have to re-adapt. In town, it can be boring.   Maximum difficulty: starting off uphill, with the radio on loud covering the engine sound, with maximum load (3 passengers) and wearing thick-soled shoes.
I agree in not Forza so it takes practice and loads of my friend used to over rev mine as its a small engine

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk

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In the majority of cases, going from a diesel to petrol requires an adjustment of driving style.

Having said that, I haven't found any difficulty with the Aygo. We run two petrol cars (have done for 30 years) and don't have an issue with either as regards starting, using too many revs, etc. Currently we have an i20 1.4 (shortly being replaced) and the Aygo. 

Being a relatively low budget city car, the Aygo will have less sound proofing than the other cars in the range.

The one car I have had an issue with as regards stalling are the Yaris 1.5's I've had as courtesy cars.

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It's quite like the technique you need with a full race Imp engine. If you don't provide beans you stall on the grid and look like an idiot.

Similarly tiny engine, I had a fully hogged out racer with a whole 1040cc engine, which would rev and hold together at around 10,000rpm though I didn't do that much.

With the rarityand cost  of Imp race parts now (forged pistons? Forget it!) it's best to set a sensible rev limit on the ignition and simply choose the correct ratios for the circuit so as not to hit the limiter..

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