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Yaris Mk 1 magazine article


Ricochet1
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6 hours ago, Ricochet1 said:

Very interesting reading John and I see quite a few Mk1s still driving around this part of Ireland.

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Thanks

The comments on rust are spot on..

Edited by FROSTYBALLS
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I remember reading this article - very useful when going to view a Yaris and my experiences are pretty much spot on with what's in the article. Probably the only thing was the 'lower control arm bolts breaking off' - I've never experienced that, but I've needed to replace the drop links on the car as I know they're a weak spot.

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  • 5 months later...

After 2002 they change the bolt on front lower arm for beefy one also the bush was changed. Just the D4D model the steering wheel fells more heavy because weight front axle.

Great article!! Don’t share the same idea on Auto Transmission but…

Quote

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I've just opened it OK. You need a PDF viewer to open it.

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  • 10 months later...

If this is from 2016 how applicable is this in 2021? 

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10 hours ago, Chrisnufc said:

If this is from 2016 how applicable is this in 2021? 

Cars will be 5 years older.

Our Yaris is 18 years old.

 

I would NOT - repeat - NOT - recommend anyone to buy an 18 year old car unless they 1. know cars 2. can DIY and 3 carry out a THOROUGH body inspection on a ramp.

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11 hours ago, Chrisnufc said:

If this is from 2016 how applicable is this in 2021? 

Whilst valuations are probably not applicable, the indications on what to look for, and general info are.

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8 hours ago, Madasafish said:

Cars will be 5 years older.

Our Yaris is 18 years old.

 

I would NOT - repeat - NOT - recommend anyone to buy an 18 year old car unless they 1. know cars 2. can DIY and 3 carry out a THOROUGH body inspection on a ramp.

I’m a qualified mechanic so can do the work for him. But don’t have access to a ramp anymore and little car sales places don’t let you look at cheap px cars on ramps do they?

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You can bring a trolley jack and a torch! :laugh:  That said the Mk1 and Mk2 are quite high off the ground compared to the Mk3 and Mk4 so you might just be able to look underneath them as long as they aren't on grass or dirt or something.

They are good cars to work on - Much nicer to work on than a lot of more modern cars, as almost everything is placed with some thought to accessibility. Lots of details I loved, like there's a little hatch under that gives access to the oil filter, so you don't have to take the whole undertray off!

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2 hours ago, Cyker said:

You can bring a trolley jack and a torch! :laugh:  That said the Mk1 and Mk2 are quite high off the ground compared to the Mk3 and Mk4 so you might just be able to look underneath them as long as they aren't on grass or dirt or something.

They are good cars to work on - Much nicer to work on than a lot of more modern cars, as almost everything is placed with some thought to accessibility. Lots of details I loved, like there's a little hatch under that gives access to the oil filter, so you don't have to take the whole undertray off!

Haha I doubt the salesmen would be happy for me to jack it up being a sub 1k car. Just need something to be cheap and last a few years hoping these will be suitable. Do you actually think it I will be able to see the problem areas for rust just looking underneath with its high tide height? I’ve Never worked on one of these to get an idea 

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On 10/8/2021 at 10:55 PM, Chrisnufc said:

Haha I doubt the salesmen would be happy for me to jack it up being a sub 1k car. Just need something to be cheap and last a few years hoping these will be suitable. Do you actually think it I will be able to see the problem areas for rust just looking underneath with its high tide height? I’ve Never worked on one of these to get an idea 

Take a torch and look around the rear subframe mountings  - the ones around the rear wheelarch area. And the sill/wing junction at the front of the rear wheelarch. And the filler pipes from tank to filler - especially around the filler.

And all along the inner sills (if you lie down looking under  car use a torch to look at  inner sill on  other side ).  A mirror on a stick helps.

Rear springs rust and break. (don't ask me how I know).

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16 hours ago, Madasafish said:

Take a torch and look around the rear subframe mountings  - the ones around the rear wheelarch area. And the sill/wing junction at the front of the rear wheelarch. And the filler pipes from tank to filler - especially around the filler.

And all along the inner sills (if you lie down looking under  car use a torch to look at  inner sill on  other side ).  A mirror on a stick helps.

Rear springs rust and break. (don't ask me how I know).

Thanks. 
 

we are gonna look at aygo/c1/107 aswel how do they cope with rust.. better or worse than Yaris?

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  • 3 months later...

Regarding rust; From my experience it's pretty good and mostly plagued the earlier year cars. I'll let this photo of the underside of our 2003 T-Sport (Japan built) speak for itself. One lady owner, daily driver, never garaged. 

image.thumb.png.1360b2a5c31f1d2fc60c31323b50400b.png

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Wow, that's is amazingly clean! My Mk1 D4D wasn't bad but definitely not as clean as that when I PX'd it...!

Sadly the other Mk1 I sold to my brother has not fared so well... he seems to live in a part of the country that is permanently damp and the suspension just rusted to death :sad:

 

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The underside of your tsport is very impressive?! I recently bought another one because of the excellent build quality your one looks a bit better underneath than mine it has had one rear sill near inner rear arch welded 

Still for a car of nearly 20 yrs of age they hold up incredibly well and are very reliable

What's not to like 👍 

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  • 1 year later...

Regarding the "headlights can go cloudy"  who would pay for replacements?  A few seconds with a bit of T Cut was all it took to get my new 2000 Yaris back to nice clear lights.

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A new headlamp for my 2003 (D4D Made in Japan) was £200.  Just saying.

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  • 2 months later...

Great artichle: Gave me an idea to what my Check Engine Light could mean; I expected that it could be due to a small hole i have in the exhaust, but the lambda sensor connector is worth to take a look at now.

Thanks!

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