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HSDish

Charge Prius Plug In 2015 with 6A ?

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Is there any way to adjust the charging cable and/or anywhere in the car to be able to charge from 6A socket ?

I got this orginal schuko cable .

 

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What country are you from ? Do you mean 16A socket ?

The standard lead is a type 2 what is 2.2kwh (9 amps) from a plug, in this case a schuko as per your picture

Looking at the spec's the Prius PHEV will charge at 3.7kw from a wall charger/charge point (16 amp) (standard type2 charge)

 

The factor that stops you charging at full power is your charger

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58 minutes ago, flash22 said:

What country are you from ? Do you mean 16A socket ?

The standard lead is a type 2 what is 2.2kwh (9 amps) from a plug, in this case a schuko as per your picture

Looking at the spec's the Prius PHEV will charge at 3.7kw from a wall charger/charge point (16 amp) (standard type2 charge)

 

The factor that stops you charging at full power is your charger

I'm living in Sweden and I mean if I can charge from a socket with 6A fuse

 

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Heard from a guy who owns a Kia Niro Plug In that you can select from Low (8A) Mid (10A) high (12A) both on Niros chargingcable and the cars menu.

Does Prius Plug In 2015 ( Gen 1 ) offers ( is it possible to do) anything like that ?

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I don't think so as it will be determined by the charger and the onboard charger (bms) via the sense pins, the default slow charge is 2.2kw what is 8-10 amp as dictated by the charging specifications

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Pretty sure the mains charger will trip or blow a 6amp circuit.  It will try to pull 2kW. Even when used on a 10amp circuit it can trip.

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Thanks to both "flash22" and "johalareewi" for shareing Your knowledge.

So... minimum 10 A circuit for chargeing Prius Plug In 2015 then

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The charge rate is intelligent, something trying to pull more current than supplied will over heat the supply wiring

most wall home chargers are rated to 32A on a 40a rcd/rcbo directly fed from the consumer unit (fuse board)

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37 minutes ago, flash22 said:

The charge rate is intelligent, something trying to pull more current than supplied will over heat the supply wiring

most wall home chargers are rated to 32A on a 40a rcd/rcbo directly fed from the consumer unit (fuse board)

At this particular place there's an old sytstem built 1986 so I guess it's not recomendable to use for charging my PIP 2015 anyway.

Some sockets / fuses are 10 Amp

 

DSC_1148.jpg

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i have never seen a fuse board like that before, not sure of the rules in Sweden but in the UK you could fit a supplementary fuse box beside it, tbh you need to talk to an electrician

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21 hours ago, flash22 said:

i have never seen a fuse board like that before...

The UK used different mains fuses to the rest of Europe :) 

They're Diazed cartridge fuses. We used to use them in Ireland as we mostly followed German standards except for BS1363 domestic sockets (Schuko was also used inconsistently in the past), but RCDs were commonplace by the '80s here and most households have been retrofitted.

I'd only expect 6 or 10A fuses to be on lighting circuits (not sockets), but I'm not sure what is expected in Sweden. Maybe the wrong fuse was installed? There doesn't seem to be any indication of what rating fuses should be in what slots. Either way, you're best off contacting an electrician or someone who understands local household wiring better than us.

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Anything in the last 30 years is DIN rail across Europe, i have come across all sorts but never seen this type, any addition is going to be governed by the incoming supply

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On 5/17/2020 at 6:35 PM, flash22 said:

The charge rate is intelligent, something trying to pull more current than supplied will over heat the supply wiring

most wall home chargers are rated to 32A on a 40a rcd/rcbo directly fed from the consumer unit (fuse board)

When using the mains charger (the one you plug into a normal mains socket) there is no way the charger knows what the mains circuit is rated at.  It will try to pull (up to) 2kW regardless.

This can be interesting when charging at a campsite with a 10A electricity hookup. 

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4 hours ago, QuantumFireball said:

The UK used different mains fuses to the rest of Europe 🙂

They're Diazed cartridge fuses. We used to use them in Ireland as we mostly followed German standards except for BS1363 domestic sockets (Schuko was also used inconsistently in the past), but RCDs were commonplace by the '80s here and most households have been retrofitted.

I'd only expect 6 or 10A fuses to be on lighting circuits (not sockets), but I'm not sure what is expected in Sweden. Maybe the wrong fuse was installed? There doesn't seem to be any indication of what rating fuses should be in what slots. Either way, you're best off contacting an electrician or someone who understands local household wiring better than us.

I looked at the fuseboard scheme and Youre probably right.

Group 1 are stowe and at 16 amp. group 2 are washing mashine and 10 amp. 4 is fridge and 5 are lights in the hall.7 is freezer and 8 ais light in bedroom. 10 is fan and 11 is light in toilet .All 2-11 are rated for 10 amp fuse.

Agree I'll talk to an electrician.

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4 hours ago, flash22 said:

Anything in the last 30 years is DIN rail across Europe, i have come across all sorts but never seen this type, any addition is going to be governed by the incoming supply

This fuse boards was very common in Sweden , at least from 50-70 ties. Our must be one of the last installed. I thougt it was 1986 but it's moore likely 1983.

Agree I'll talk to an electrician.

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2 hours ago, johalareewi said:

When using the mains charger (the one you plug into a normal mains socket) there is no way the charger knows what the mains circuit is rated at.  It will try to pull (up to) 2kW regardless.

This can be interesting when charging at a campsite with a 10A electricity hookup. 

I'll consult to an electrician

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On 5/16/2020 at 6:40 PM, HSDish said:

Is there any way to adjust the charging cable and/or anywhere in the car to be able to charge from 6A socket ?

I got this orginal schuko cable .

 

DSC_0899.JPG

There should be a label on the back of the  charger which tells you the required voltage and current rating. Here in UK it is 230V and 10A. I expect Sweden will be the same.

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23 hours ago, johalareewi said:

There should be a label on the back of the  charger which tells you the required voltage and current rating. Here in UK it is 230V and 10A. I expect Sweden will be the same.

Yes, it's the same in Sweden.

But at Toyota Sweden ( an old pdf from 2013) You can read, as below

 

" 6. Kan jag ladda bilen från ett eluttag med lägre amperetal (t.ex. 6A eller 8A)?

Ja, men det tar lite längre tid. Med 6A tar det ca 2 timmar och 20 minuter att ladda fullt och

med 8A tar det ca 1 timme och 45 minuter (att jämföra med 1,5 timme med 16A)."

 

Translated...

 

" 6. Can I charge the car from a lower amperage power outlet ( e.g 6A or 8A)?

Yes, but it’ll take a little longer. With 6A, it takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes to full charge and with 8A, it takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes ( compared to 1,5 hour with 16A)"

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That's interesting, I guess the charger is intelligent in that respect.

It's not something we would consider in the UK and Ireland as every outlet is supposed to be able to provide 13A. The only 6A circuit in my home is for the heating controller.

So there are sockets in your home that you can't plug in high current devices like a vacuum cleaner or hairdryer because they'll blow the fuse? How are you supposed to know? Sounds strange.

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The chargers must be a different spec in europe, or it's market specific - it must be a very intelligent charger

 

 

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On 5/20/2020 at 10:48 PM, HSDish said:

Yes, it's the same in Sweden.

But at Toyota Sweden ( an old pdf from 2013) You can read, as below

 

" 6. Kan jag ladda bilen från ett eluttag med lägre amperetal (t.ex. 6A eller 8A)?

Ja, men det tar lite längre tid. Med 6A tar det ca 2 timmar och 20 minuter att ladda fullt och

med 8A tar det ca 1 timme och 45 minuter (att jämföra med 1,5 timme med 16A)."

 

Translated...

 

" 6. Can I charge the car from a lower amperage power outlet ( e.g 6A or 8A)?

Yes, but it’ll take a little longer. With 6A, it takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes to full charge and with 8A, it takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes ( compared to 1,5 hour with 16A)"

 

kabeldosa DSC_1151.jpg

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12 hours ago, QuantumFireball said:

That's interesting, I guess the charger is intelligent in that respect.

It's not something we would consider in the UK and Ireland as every outlet is supposed to be able to provide 13A. The only 6A circuit in my home is for the heating controller.

So there are sockets in your home that you can't plug in high current devices like a vacuum cleaner or hairdryer because they'll blow the fuse? How are you supposed to know? Sounds strange.

I was wrong about the 6A fuse. The green 6A fuses sat in the ”extra holders” which isn’t in use.

My bad but I cant change topic title.

 

As said abowe,

I looked at the fuseboard scheme and …

Group 1 are stowe and at 16 amp. group 2 are washing mashine and 10 amp. 4 is fridge and 5 are lights in the hall.7 is freezer and 8 is light in bedroom. 10 is fan and 11 is light in toilet .All 2-11 are rated for 10 amp fuse.

The small note/label down left says   A1 MK 4X6 20 Amp

Dont know what it means.

I was thinking that I maybe could charge from the sockets in the bedroom (10A fuse), not regulary but sometimes when I will be in that apartment and when I got the charging in supervison and only for max 1,5 hour at the time.

Have to use an 10 m ( 32.9 feet I think) extention cord though and thats probably recomendable anyway.

Guess I'll have to talk to an electrician.

 

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A 10A circuit should be fine as long as nothing else is on that circuit at the same time. The increased resistance from a 10m extension lead could potentially push it over 10A, not entirely sure about that. I guess you can just try it and see if it blows the fuse. Shorter or no extension lead would be ideal.

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Thanks again.

Of course I should have written

"Have to use an 10 m ( 32.9 feet I think) extention cord though and thats probably" not "recomendable anyway."

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hi the increased resistance of the extension lead will drop the voltage at the charger which will decrease the current available to charge the car as it is lost in heating the extension lead 

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