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Biomecanoid

Pump out engine oil and coolant

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Hello,

Does it make any sense to pump out the engine Oil thru the dip stick and the coolant from the radiator and overflow tank ?
I don't have a garage or a drive way of my own and i park on the street. So i can not jack up the car and do the work properly.

I understand that is a hack and not the recommended way to do the job properly but will it help a little bit ? and maybe prolong my visits to the mechanic for an Oil change and coolant flush.
I already have 2 pumps and i can use one for Oil and one for coolant. As you understand i am taking baby steps to start doing basic maintenance on my car.

Thank you

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How you going to change the Oil filter? That’s a very important item to change.

A local small mechanic business won’t charge too much for an Oil/filter change.

Is the car due for engine coolant change?

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9 minutes ago, Catlover said:

How you going to change the oil filter? That’s a very important item to change.

A local small mechanic business won’t charge too much for an oil/filter change.

Is the car due for engine coolant change?

I had my Oil and filter changed last month ( i have it changed every 9-10 months ) but as far as coolant is concerned, i have a 2006 Daihatsu Sirion  that i bought used 3 years ago. I didn't do anything about the coolant and i have no idea what the previous owner did.

The car burns a tiny bit of Oil and i top it up about every 5 months maybe 1/4 is missing ( i would be OK even if i did nothing ). So i though instead of topping up i would pump out the remaining Oil replace it with new and take it to the mechanic after additional 5 month to drain the Oil properly and change the filter.

The car has 59000 miles and its now 14 years old

 

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As I understand it, Smart cars (by Mercedes) have no sump plug, their Oil can only be sucked out, so the manufacturer have deemed this an acceptable way of doing Oil changes on that design.  The same is true of marine engines.  How much Oil is left behind is down the the sump design and the Oil filter capacity - it varies with the engine.  Some Oil will get left behind!  It is just judging if the dilution of the new Oil is enough to be concerned about. And you won't know this until you have tried it on your car.

I have experimented with a Pela 6000 pump like this:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pela-6000-Oil-Pump-Extraction/dp/B002EJ2GUC.  It is surprisingly slow to drain, but this is not a concern to me.

I notice that when rebranded as a Sealey item it's £10 cheaper on Amazon.  The Pela aftersales is good, apparently, and the tube that goes down the dipstick is like a heavy duty bicycle brake cable (bowden cable) outer, it works well. Some others don't work so well.

Using these devices is a bit of an opinion divider, some folk condemn them, others don't.  This topic usually stirs up a hornet's nest.

One benefit that is rarely mentioned; if you are just doing an Oil change, perhaps as an interim, you don't have the brief, Oil-less operation after the change that would be due to the Oil filter and pipework having to fill/prime with Oil.  Instead, the Oil pressure light goes off immediately afterwards.

I have no experience of the electric Oil pump for sale in Lidl, which may be what prompted your post?  I am looking for an excuse to buy one, but I don't have one at the moment.  And I can leave the Pela unattended on the drive, doing its  extraction thing, which I couldn't so easily do with the Lidl item connected to the 12v Battery.

I haven't used the Pela on our hybrids, I should add, only some older petrol and diesel cars.

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17 minutes ago, Gerg said:

I have no experience of the electric oil pump for sale in Lidl, which may be what prompted your post?  I am looking for an excuse to buy one, but I don't have one at the moment.  And I can leave the Pela unattended on the drive, doing its  extraction thing, which I couldn't so easily do with the Lidl item connected to the 12v battery.

As you correctly figured out i got 2 pumps from Lidl. So you think its a good idea to pump out the Oil and replace it instead of topping it up ? What about the coolant is it a good idea to pump that out ?

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I think a good quality synthetic Oil in your engine should last longer than the Oil change interval that you are reckoning on doing, but that is dependent on the journeys the car is put to.  I can't see what you are suggesting with the interim 'through the dipstick' Oil change being any kind of problem.  The Daihatsu/Toyota engine in your car seems to have a very mild tendency to wear out its camchain if the engine Oil isn't maintained, you are definitely insuring against your engine heading in that direction.  Poor Oil seems to wear the valve train prematurely in plenty of engines across brands.

Getting the engine hot is the ideal situation from an oil health point of view.  When cool the Oil doesn't have the ability to quickly evaporate any petrol contamination and moisture, and the engine is more prone to carbon build-up in those circumstances as well.  An occasional long journey would help with that. 

The service regime is obviously a compromise.  In your owners handbook it might specify in the 'maintenance' section some 'severe' service conditions that necessitate more regular Oil changes etc.  If that section exists in your book, 'Short journeys' should be one of them.  But there has to be a service schedule even if 'one size' doesn't fit all, else chaos would rule!  But, as an annual service is so normal, why does your car need servicing just because the Earth has been round the Sun once exactly?😂

Sucking the Oil out also means that you do not have to think about a new drain plug washer, and how much to tighten the drain plug bolt without a torque wrench (which you may not have done before).

I don't think I'd use the pump on the radiator coolant.  The quicker it comes out the better, gravity may take some debris with it (as there is no filter to catch this in normal use!), although on your car there probably won't be any.  I think eventually you could learn the optimum places to pull the fluid out from, but that would take many years of experimenting, given that you are only changing it every 5 years?

Anyway, off topic a bit, old cars used to need a lot of servicing.....

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3 hours ago, Gerg said:

I think a good quality synthetic oil in your engine should last longer than the oil change interval that you are reckoning on doing, but that is dependent on the journeys the car is put to.  I can't see what you are suggesting with the interim 'through the dipstick' oil change being any kind of problem.  The Daihatsu/Toyota engine in your car seems to have a very mild tendency to wear out its camchain if the engine oil isn't maintained, you are definitely insuring against your engine heading in that direction.  Poor oil seems to wear the valve train prematurely in plenty of engines across brands.

I do use the best synthetic Oil i can find when i top up the Oil, but i don't control what Oil the mechanic puts in the car, but i have it changed every 9-10 months ( not 12 ). The engine in my Daihatsu is the 1KR-FE and i believe its the same with the older Toyota aygo.

 

3 hours ago, Gerg said:

The service regime is obviously a compromise.  In your owners handbook it might specify in the 'maintenance' section some 'severe' service conditions that necessitate more regular oil changes etc.  If that section exists in your book, 'Short journeys' should be one of them.  But there has to be a service schedule even if 'one size' doesn't fit all, else chaos would rule!  But, as an annual service is so normal, why does your car need servicing just because the Earth has been round the Sun once exactly?😂

Under "severe" conditions the Oil should be changed every 5000 miles there is sticker under the hood stating that. I consider my car being 14 years old severe condition enough lol so i do all maintenance ahead of normal schedule.

 

3 hours ago, Gerg said:

Sucking the oil out also means that you do not have to think about a new drain plug washer, and how much to tighten the drain plug bolt without a torque wrench (which you may not have done before).

You are right i don't have a  torque wrench to measure with how much force i am tightening down bolts nor i know how much torque to use on the drain plug bolt.

 

3 hours ago, Gerg said:

I don't think I'd use the pump on the radiator coolant.  The quicker it comes out the better, gravity may take some debris with it (as there is no filter to catch this in normal use!), although on your car there probably won't be any.  I think eventually you could learn the optimum places to pull the fluid out from, but that would take many years of experimenting, given that you are only changing it every 5 years?

So i should not bother pumping out the coolant ? won't help in any way ?

 

 

 

 

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16 hours ago, Catlover said:

How you going to change the oil filter? That’s a very important item to change.

A local small mechanic business won’t charge too much for an oil/filter change.

Is the car due for engine coolant change?

Oli change here is about 50 euro and Coolant flush and replacement is about 200 euro if i remember correctly

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