Disconnecting -ve battery terminal (2017 1.2T Excel)

[ShamblesX]

Hi,

The wife's motor wouldn't start last night - just a clicking noise as the starter tried to throw out, so I decided to charge the Battery.

I'd love to learn about the magic required to remove the -ve terminal connector from the pole. Easy enough to loosen the bolt and slightly prise the clamp apart and it has some sideways wiggle, but the damned thing will not lift off the pole. Is it being held in place by something I cannot see (red box)?

I also tried to remove the plug marked in green, which also doesn't want to leave its mates behind either 🥴

Thanks!

[flash22]

Loosen the nut level with the top of the thread give it a tap, wiggle pull and gently lever it up

[ShamblesX]

Pretty sure I tried that - the clamp wiggles up about 1mm but wont go any further, though I didn't try the levering bit. When it's finished charging I'll get a large flathead screwie and try to lever it up.

 

Cheers

[Mooly]

It might feel like it is held simply due to the weight and inflexible and thick wiring. If it rotates freely side to side then it will pull off.

When you replace it be sure to try and push it fully down in one firm go and then while holding it fully down lightly tighten the clamp... but do not overtighten.

[ShamblesX]

That's good confidence building - thank you  

Did my earlier description of the failure of the starter motor to engage sound reasonable? Ie, a clattering noise from the nearside front when pushing the start button? Got the Battery on charge right now but not sure if that is really the cause.  Time will tell, I guess, as I'll be testing it out in an hour or so.

[Gerg]

The 12v Battery is covered by the 5 year warranty.  But a dealer will only flag it as defective after it has failed a test on the official Toyota Battery tester, which gives a paper print out.  If the Battery tests as good, then an hourly-rate charge is sometimes payable for the test.

[ShamblesX]

Well, she starts fine now.  I still plan to attempt to remove the clamp, but not until weekend as 'er indoors wants to drive, for some stoopid reason.

 

Appreciate everyone's replies.

[Mooly]

It all sounds promising if it starts OK now.

Ideally a check of the voltage across the terminals while in the faulty state would have been useful, perhaps also with headlights and heated window switched on to load the Battery quite heavily. A new/good Battery should cope with that for 90 minutes or more and so if the voltage fell away very quickly then the Battery is either faulty or in a poor state of charge.