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Flywheel/Bolts


tarantula_123
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Anyone know whether it is essential to replace the 8 flywheel bolts when removing/replacing the flywheel? 

If so any pointers where to get the cheapest set, as I can't justify paying nearly £9 each from Toyota.... 

Am also after a new flywheel, any cheap suggestions, or a decent second hand lightweight one.... 

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Seems an often asked question about the bolts, but no clear answer in the info I have.

As you can see there is a very exact sequence to refitting the bolts on standard 1.4 /1.6 so would think the higher powered TS its more important.

Think you need to get the details from Toyotas info sheets.

Why are you replacing the flywheel ?  new clutch, could it not be skimmed for a few £.

Again for such an engine, is "the cheapest" the best way ?

 

PIc 1.4 / 1.6 manual specs

 

 

 

 

 

 

000196.jpg

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The bolts need replacing, and if you buy a genuine flywheel, you will also need the 3 dowels as they don't come on the flywheel  👍

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I was just about to post they are stretch bolts aka torque to yeld

They are M10 x 1.25 - 22mm long ( 0.875˝ )

ARP 103-2802

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Well I'm down there once, so it makes sense to do the flywheel. I have no idea on the condition of it, but I am replacing the rear main seal behind the flywheel itself, so it needs to come off anyway. 

 

I ordered the flywheel bolts yesterday off eBay around £35. 

 

I have done a lot of future proofing to the car, having pretty much replaced the whole of the suspension components this year.

 

So transmission wise, I will do my best to make it spot on. I might even get a pair of front drive shafts if they are coming out as well. Found a site that does them for £99 a pair. 

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Thought about replacing my driveshafts when I saw those cheapies ( far east ?)  but do mail the suppliers with your car details as even for our 1.6 they could only supply one shaft , not both !

Also depends on how many splines your existing ones have.

The  big question is to how good they are ?  partic on a more powerful engine like the TS.

Either way would say save your old ones.  

Worth checking your existing shafts under their rubber dampers , as seems they are a real rust point, the nearside one more so, most of the reported driveshaft breaks are on the nearside one.  Its not too hard to move the rubber and rust treat the area and slide it back again and seal with silicone

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