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X 2 Avensis T27 issues please


SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS
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Hi guys,

Whilst installing a new Bosch s5 Battery into our family Avensis diesel today, we noticed 2 issues that we'd like some input with please, thank you.

1. Re drivers door strap. We've noticed the famous cracking door hinges! Wow! I've attached a pic. The passenger side seems ok. Is there a diy fix? I recall somebody once stating attaching washers slows it down? 

The one thing I've never read is...if left in its condition...what's the worse that could happen?

 

And...

2. I noticed once we'd close the bonnet, fully secure, there is still movement if one tries lifting it up and down. Is this normal? Again I recall reading horror stories of bonnets flying open on the motorways!! Causing terrible damage but gladly...GLADLY...no deaths. I have attached a quick video to illustrate guys.

20201121_142125.jpg

20201121_151454.jpg

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Bonnet is normal. I have heard that if there is something between it wont immediately cause problem to the metal. The seal should still fill the gap and it won't fly open even after you have pulled the switch inside. There is still the latch that you have to open manually.

On the door hinges there is no workaroung for them. You need to know some good welder who can make it stronger. My local welder said that you will probaly break the bolts while getting the door off.

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On 11/22/2020 at 7:42 PM, highbeam said:

Bonnet is normal. I have heard that if there is something between it wont immediately cause problem to the metal. The seal should still fill the gap and it won't fly open even after you have pulled the switch inside. There is still the latch that you have to open manually.

On the door hinges there is no workaroung for them. You need to know some good welder who can make it stronger. My local welder said that you will probaly break the bolts while getting the door off.

Cheers highbeam 

So the catch is normal, I'm glad, and true say even though the bonnet has movement...there's still that catch!

Re the door hinges, I wonder if anyone has had them welded? Must look ugly i assume although slightly hidden.

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I have here in Finland one car body painter who also does the welding. We have idead it already but didn't have time to leave my car there. It should stay in 500-600€ cost range but it is much for only repairing doors. In the shop they have only said that be careful when opening doors so it won't crack more.

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I am still using washers. I increased the size used and it slowed down the spread. I have the metal I need, to cut to shape and fit. I have a welder friend. This is for the future. I have not checked the crack for a very long time, plus the drivers door being the most used, is worse than the passenger door. Since the pandemic started, I use the car a lot less.

My bonnet once fully shut does not have any movement. Once didn't 'latch' the bonnet properly, or maybe released it and forgot, so the bonnet was slightly raised up. I noticed it on the motorway, so reduced speed which helped. I took the first exit and stopped on a safe place to close the bonnet properly. The secondary catch did enough to stop the bonnet flying open. 

Here are some posts on the door strap -

 

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About your bonnet... I just checked mine and there was no movement when fully shut.

When lifting the bonnet up you should see four rubber buffers in the car body that the bonnet should hit when closed. Are they okay?

Is the locking mechanism properly fixed to the car?


 
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Cheers my fellow helpers...

Bonnet issue resolved...I adjusted those rubber damper things up by a notch and a bit and woo hoo...no more movement! It was an open and shut case! Apologies, couldn't help myself.

Re the hinges, we may try the washer temporarily fix as mentioned by konrad C, what size washers do I need exactly?

Nobody has input what will happen to the door as is if left to worsen? I cant imagine it falling off? Although they are very heavy indeed. I wonder how much a door on these machines weigh exactly?

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About the strap...

I think the washer outer diameter should be as large as it will fit (maybe 30 mm) and inner diameter should be suitable for the 6 mm bolt.

Thickness also as thick as it will fit (maybe 1 mm).

This kind of  "washer fix" slows down the propagation of the crack but the best thing to do is to weld a suitable piece of metal plate for reinforcement.

Unfortunately the whole welding process is quite laborious: the door must be taken off, the door panel must be removed, etc.

If you left the door as it is, the worst that can happen is that when the strong wind grabs the door, the strap tears off, and the door turns against the fender.

Then you have broken hinges, door and fender.

If I was you I would install those washers and always would try to remember to hold on the door when opening, especially in windy weather.

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I checked my today and the the door cracks have not expanded much if at all since I installed the larger washers. I have the sheet metal which I was going to cut to shape, then install as reinforcement. I have forgotten all about the doors.

I also checked the bonnet in locked mode, and it is firmly down, with no movement at all. The rubber seal on the slam panel is in place. I remember checking the rubber seal, the plastic cover panel and replacing any damaged or broken clips previously. My bonnet was sluggish to pop up, but I since lubricated the lock. The catch part works properly, holding the bonnet down until released.  

 

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