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Toyota Yaris P1340 Igniter Circuit Malfunction #8


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Greetings, i have here a TOYOTA YARIS (_P1_) Petrol 1.0L (SCP10_) 48kW/65PS, im gonna try to explain the situation detailed as possible as this error is very difficult to solve. i am not a professional mechanic and only know the basics. 

This is an 1SZ-FE engine with manual transmission. 

After i changed the Oil on this car according to the manual. And took it for a little spin, everything seemed fine. the next day i took reasonable spin, and the fault code light up in the dashboard. i thought i the Oil that i put in is not the correct type, since the manual states that it takes 5w30 type. but i put in 5w40. I have talked to a couple of mechanic friends and they said that it was not a problem. here is a link to Oil viscosity https://askanydifference.com/difference-between-5w30-and-5w40/

The register chain, was replaced around 25000km ago as a kit, and got helped by a professional mechanic. I have read that the tentioner can loosen over time and make the camshaft sensor go out of sync also the chain rattle. but i dont think this is the case because it was changed. I haven't open the engine yet. this will be the last thing i will check. because at the moment im not sure what to look for.

I have searched the web for some answers and i found a sweet check list on what it cud be. Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p1340_toyota.html

I have replaced the Camshaft Position sensor. When i first got the fault code i took off the old sensor and found Oil inside the connector. can i be that the connector is shorted? I have taken a voltage measure: (red wire= 5V) (black/yellow wire=12.3V) (white/black wire=0V) Anybody know the correct voltage for this wires? so im getting some type of power out of the connector. And the wires are not damaged on the path to the engine control module (ECU).

The code came back after a ride, when i changed the sensor. It seems the code is popping up after deceleration, like on a traffic light. 

I have checked all the wires for damage everything seems fine. But i am not 100% sure that i have found the correct wires to the ECU, does anybody have a diagram for this car? i have also done some testing  with a multimeter according to this webside: https://dannysengineportal.com/crankshaft-camshaft-position-sensor-testing-done-the-easy-way/

Battery voltage is ok. have tryed to replace with good working one just for testing, and no effect.

I drove to a local scrapyard and bought my self a used working coil, and tried to swap on each cylinder with no effect on the engine or the check engine light that keeps coming back. i also tried to change the Intake air sensor with a know working one, no effect.

I have checked the crankshaft position sensor and cleaned it up and checked the wire ring, but haven't tested the sensor. I have read that they can be out of sync. Also checked the wires to the start motor, checked for vacuum leaks and sealed the gasket for the intake manifold. 

I have replaced the sparkplugs and air filther.

Tried to delete the code with a professional OBD II tool, but it came back. At home i just disconnect the Battery and wait a little and it erases the code for me. but the funny thing is the fault code lights up: when i start the car and give some gas, to about 4k rpm and down to 0 and shut of the engine and repeat couple of times, the code comes up. 

Right now, i have adjusted up the rpm, to about 860 since the car sounded like it was gonna stall at operation temperature. but i need to fine adjust it because it sounds a little rough when i start it up when the car is cold, i noticed that the car is designed to have a higher rpm when the engine is cold, but it goes down when the engine is at operation temperature. 

I took out a spark plug and it seems that this code has affected the engine. but it doesn't feel like there are any difference when i drive it, because this engine have such a small power and the petrol use is so little that its difficult to notice any difference in that area.

I like this car and its a cheap and fun rocket to enjoy. Hopefully somebody can help me out and point me to the right direction with some information and some diagrams and awnsers to this situation. 

thank you in advance. 

check out the pictures for more information. 

 

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P1340 is cam related, A code is a symptom not a cause,

The symptoms you give, i would remove, check and clean the vvti solenoid, clean it with carb cleaner also check the resistance with a multi meter

The solenoid is located on the left side rear of the engine (as you look at it with the bonnet up) on the timing chain cover

as circled in this pic

post-22688-127074802079.jpg

 

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hello, thanks for replying and great illustrated picture. I just felt like giving as much information as possible to understand why this fault code occur, maybe it can be relatable. I have removed the vvti solenoid and cleaned it with no effect so far. and checked the wires for damage. the solenoid seems in good working condition. with resistance check do you mean a continuity test? if not. do you know what is the resistance measurement for the solenoid for a good condition one.

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There is also a filter for the solenoid that is behind a blanking plug, i will have to look up its location, but it's the region of the solenoid

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It may not have the Oil control valve filter on an 2003 unless was built in 2002

PM me the vin and i will look it up

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