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Alternator failing?


aurisfin
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Having issues with sqeaking that is barely noticable when idling and pretty loud when the revs go past 2k. Belt tension is ok and the belt is a new Continental belt. You can hear the sound better on the video where the phone was placed near the MAF sensor. I have a 2009 Toyota auris 1.6 ( 1zr-fe) 5 speed manual with 191 000 km (approx 119 000 miles) on the clock and the altenator looks to be original.

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Release the tension on the belt by using the alternator adjustor screw, then spin the alternator pulley by hand, checking for any sounds. Could just be the alternator bearing that needs replacing.

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When you test the alternator pulley, check that the pulley freewheel is working. I did this check when I was replacing the water pump on my Avensis 1.8 Valvematic engine (2ZR-FAE), which is a similar design and shares some of the same components. Also check the water pump while you are there. These engines are quite easy to work on, in the alternator/water pump area. 

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if you have a long screwdriver or a long bar place one end on the water pump housing

and the other end on your ear whilst the engine is running you will be able to hear the

bearings in the housing then move onto all other items you want to test

 

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I took my altenator off this morning and tested the pulleys. Alternator pulley felt smooth but I could hear some grinding (ish) noise (video). Pulley freewheel worked as intended and water pump was ok too, no extra noises that I could tell. I also tried to listen for sound with the screwdriver method and heard some whining from the altenator although I'm not sure if its normal. I also noticed that When the engine idles with all the accessories on it makes the whining a bit more prominent (video). To me all signs point to a faulty alternator/altenator bearing but what do you guys think? 

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I think the bearings on the alternator should be smoother, that sounds a bit dry. Probably more prominent with the tension from the cable.

The bearings are cheap luckily, but getting them on without tools, can be a nightmare. Maybe try contacting some rebuild place, if you have it locally.

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Called some local shops and they told me that It would be better just to get a new altenator. Is the correct altenator 100A 14v? A new Denso altenator (DAN1019) costs around 171 pounds so luckily it's not that expensive.

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How getting a new part can be cheaper than changing bearings that costs few pounds only...

Considering how easy and hassle free it is to replace an alternator, part for part, i would try my luck with new bearings 1st.

Check your old alternator for part number, if you cant find it, you can try going to japan-parts.eu, entering your VIN, and finding the part number there.

There have been similar topics on the forum, so maybe there is some info there, you can try using search for that.

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Every shop I called told me that the labour would be around 110 pounds plus parts so that's why the recommended a replacement unit. I could always try to change the bearings myself but I don't have a press or proper tools to remove the old bearings.

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