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Hello all, I've just bought a 58 plate Auris SR180. It appears to have been quite well looked after and the engine sounds sweet and pulls well, but it's truly gutless at low revs. From 1000-1300rpm it will not accelerate at all, and only really starts to pull after 1800rpm, going very well from 2000. Is this a normal trait, or should I be looking at the EGR valve etc? Would remapping help, or is it likely to lead to more problems?

The previous owner had been using it for a 20 mile motorway commute, but during the last year it's probably been used mostly around town.

Other than the above I've so far found it to be very comfortable and nice to drive, although I suspect the fuel consumption might come as a shock after my boring Colt diesel that could manage 72mpg on a long run!

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Hi..i have owned a avensis 2.2 ltr 55 plate for the last 5 years, not as much power as the sr180, but was pretty good.i now have a 58 plate sr180, ive had this for 3 weeks but only driven it for the last 2 days, a bit more power, easy to notice compared to the avensis, so i think you have a little problem.is it bad turbo lag or egr..i hope i dont get the same problem, but i have noticed the poor return in mpg.the avensis was 42 to 54 on aversge and higher on a long run, sr180 is only 34mpg at the moment.mu sr180 58 plate, plenty of poke and easy to get a squirt of power.

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I don't think it's turbo lag, there's no response AT ALL at low revs, and above 1800rpm there's no sign of lag. I read someone else's - very good - post about cleaning the EGR valve, so I think I'll start there.

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I used to get a similar problem on a Nissan Almera 2.2 DCi. It threw up no fault codes when it did this. I used to run some of this stuff through the intake system and give it a good, high rev, run out. The low rev poor response disappeared and it was back to rude health.

Wynns Diesel EGR Valve Cleaner Air Intake MAF Sensor Cleaner Reduce Emissions

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20170712_191056.thumb.jpg.62fa6b8abb07091318a6f758ef723d7f.jpg20170712_191106.thumb.jpg.665a6eb8fb3c470930aa6c573c237726.jpg

I've always found that the best way to clean an EGR valve is to remove it and do it by hand.

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Yes, I think cleaning the valve is the place to start. I've read that they're happier if run on VPower, so I'll try that for a while. Maybe the occasional additive in the tank, just to keep it clean. I'll see how it goes.

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Please keep us all informed.i have read that adfitives to fuel dont really clean the egr and the best way is to do it yourself.i have poor but not bad mpg, so im looking forward to see if its your problem.i know there is a post on here saying cleaning their egr gave them better mpg, but its good to have lots of info...good luck

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I put an additive through mine a couple of times and I couldn't see any difference.  It only takes minutes to take it off and clean it so, occasionally I do that. 

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Thanks for all the advice. It'll be a slow progress report I'm afraid, I'm waiting for a minor operation so can't really do anything at the moment! Obviously not doing many miles either. Be keen to see any differences though.

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Hey Paul! I hope you're okay, and I hope your operation goes well!

I have a 2008 Auris SR180, and I had pretty much the exact same experience as you when I first purchased it. Almost scary to drive until the turbo kicks in and rockets you forwards. I found that the EGR valve had about 5mm carbon on all surfaces, as well as the pipe which connects to it and the manifold which it connects to (I'd definitely start there!).

I also have anecdotal experience of restricting this EGR valve, which made an incredible impact and gives it torque from around 1400RPM, which was both consistent and predictable. Blanking plates frequently don't work due to the EGR sensor picking up that there is no difference in pressure apparently.

I also fitted a K&N performance panel filter, they are quite expensive in comparison to the standard filters, however the reduced ongoing costs convinced me! This also helped a little for the car to breathe a bit easier, but cost-to-performance this was the least effective option.

Another part I did which made a huge difference, was removing a redundant piece of bendy intake pipe which is located just below the engine fuse box. I believe it just unclips, and made a huge difference to low-down power!

A remap/tune/box is also a good option. Personally I have experience of the TDI Tuning box, and I would recommend it, especially if you can get it in one of their 25% off sales. I found that Mode 4 had the best improvement in MPG, while balanced with torque, (Around 3-4mpg per tank).

Personally I used Redex in each tank, I purchase it when it is on sale at Tesco for £2 a bottle, and it seems to keep the EGR slightly cleaner. And if not I'm only wasting £2 a month, so I'm personally not too bothered!

All of these changes in combination changed the torque completely in the low-down. I would highly recommend doing the panel filter and tune last, they're by far the most costly and it was the other changes which made the biggest difference!

I hope these help, and I hope you're doing well!

Thank you!

 

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Thanks Kyle. Interesting about the bendy intake piping. Know exactly what you mean about being scary until the turbo kicks in, I've been caught out a couple of times pulling out into traffic.

As soon as I can get these kidney stones lasered and the stent taken out I'll start experimenting.

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Haha. Will definitely start at cleaning EGR valve, then drive it for a while. Other experiments may follow!

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I have an idea off a good mechanic.some engine/decoke/egr additive to fuel cleaners do actually work, but you need to check out the temperature that they need to reach to do there bit.some fuel additives will make your car run at a higher combustion, you just need to be aware to give your car a good run in a lower gear and dont keep adding to your fuel tank all the time.i dont know if the JLM stuff is any good, but there are plenty good write ups.

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Well I'll start with the manual decoke, and then monitor it. If it builds up quickly I'll give the additives a try and see if it makes a difference. Filled up for the first time yesterday and couldn't believe how expensive VPower has got! It used to be worth it when I had my little Daihatsu Sirion Rallye 2 as it gave me more mpg, but I suspect this won't be the case with a diesel.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I cleaned out the EGR valve - which was very coked up - and it made no difference to the bottom end, but seems to have given it a real kick at around 2,200 rpm. I wasn't expecting that! And I don't know if the soot acts like an old school choke, but it doesn't start as instantly from cold as it did!

I'll start trying other things and report back.

I tried to upload some pictures of the soot, but it wouldn't work.

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You dont really need to fill up with v-power fuel.i dont think a fuel company would make or sell bad fuel that damaged your engine.a good long run or decoke or an additive that desolves the build up should do.i hope its not poor compression ?

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Doesn't feel like poor compression, because it really flies above 2,000 rpm. The engine sounds and feels really sweet too - quiet for a diesel. I have bought some Redex treatment that I'll add next top-up.

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Just a thought.if you had a loose fitting fuel filter..eg..sucking in air somewhere..it would be rough at low revs, but might self seal when its warmed up ? Just a thought !

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  • 1 month later...

Well, the EGR de-coke didn't seem to improve the lack of low down grunt, but adding Redex diesel additive seems to have made a massive difference. Due to the total lack of acceleration below 1500rpm, 30-50mph in 4th was taking over 13 seconds, now it's 6½! It still doesn't feel as sprightly low down as my daughter's Civic, but it's much better than it was. Only 34.5 mpg on the first full tank, but I have been just driving round town most of the time.

Now to sort out the strange tyre wear that makes it sound like the rear wheel bearings are whining! Apparently this is a common issue with these and Merc A class and a few other models.

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