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CV Rubber Boot


sproutdreamer
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Our04 Yaris has just started to leak a little oil from the CV rubber boot.My daughter needs to use it tommorow for a 20 mile round trip in town. Is that going to bugger the CV joint itself? I would usually replace the cv joint if replacing a rubber but on an old car if it is ok maybe not. Despite having had cars with FWD for 40 years I have only had to replace one boot or joint and that was a mini van about 1973 so unfamiliar territory for me. What are thoughts on this?

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It might leak some grease but I doubt that the CV joint will be damaged. I'd use it and get it repaired ASAP. 

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Thanks it is a bit cold for grovelling under the car and my garage is full of junk. Any ideas what I should expect to pay in a non-dealer repair garage?

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An hours labour plus parts, a cv boot is £6-15

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As above.  It needs fixing but certainly 20 miles won't cause a problem unless it is already ripped open and and the road grit is already in there. 

Most aftermarket CV boots only last from as little as 18 months.  I've had supposedly quality Japanese aftermarket boots start perishing after a couple of years so I think genuine is best in this case.     

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Thank for replies-I have started to take out the drive shaft and already with difficulty getting off the wheel nut retainer. One I have dealt with in the past have been fairly thin sheet pressed metal so easy to get off. This one is quite heavy pressed steel and I cannot shift it at all. Are there any clever ways of freeing this retaining cap to get at the wheel nut?

The existing drive shaft has a round rubber block in the middle which I understand is for anti-vibration or balancing but the aftermarket ones do not seem to have this. Any ideas about this. The aftermarket ones that get good e bay feedback are <£50 and I am not up for a Toyota Genuine spare at>£400, on such an old car!

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PM me your vin and i will look it up there are a few variations, i take it its the longer one of the 2

if the joint is still good clean it out and repack with grease after fitting a new boot

cv nut - a cold chisel and hammer, Then a socket on a long bar with someone standing on the brakes

 

The cv is self is only held on the shaft with a circlip/clip

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Thanks Flash I think a cold chisel is the only way to get off the heavy pressed steel retaining cap. At £46 a full shaft with new Cv's each end, pre-filled with grease seems the way to go, aprt from my uncertainty about the balance weight.vibration damper in the middle?

Having spent a fruitless 2 hours I will go and sharpen my cold chisel!

I found the VIN which starts 2SZD so I guess it is a 2SZ-FE which is the French made one, as is our car. As I understand the Jap made 1.3 is the 2NZ-FE and is 1299cc. My uncertainty was due to the fact that the vehicle reg doc shows the cc as 1299 wheras the 2SZ-FE is 1298cc?

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The VIN will start with VNK or JT - 17 digits long

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I really should read the book. I spent 2 hours trying to remove what I thought was a pressed sheet cap over the hub nut. It looked like a cover with rounded edges but more substantial where it was pressed into the hub shaft groove. Eventually I put a large socket on to try and unscrew the whole thing and off it came. There is no retaining cap, it just looks like one but the Haynes Manual now I read it is quite clear. Anyway all free just need to withdraw the shaft tomorrow, I will try and draw off 2L of transmission fluid and hope that when I pull the shat there is not a torrent of fluid. With the car jacked up one side and -2L I hope not.

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3 hours ago, flash22 said:

The VIN will start with VNK or JT - 17 digits long

Sorry it is the engine no that starts 2SZD, the VIN is VNKKL1837OAO89524, thanks.

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All done with new shaft & Cv joints now fitted. I got the shaft complete from J&R TRADING (UK) LTD, Birmingham who are cv joint and driveshaft specialist. Only £46 including next day delivery. Looks to be high quality and an amazing price. At that price is is not not really worth messing about replacing a joint & boot. Also came with a new ABS ring and shaft nut.

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