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Hot running probs


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Greetings. My first post here and unfortunately it's seeking advice regarding a problem.

I've had my 2004 D-4D for approximately two years. It is now on 142k and is suffering from poor running when hot. Let me explain:

I used to have a problem that when lifting off the throttle at speed and re-applying the power would simply die away. It struggled along at 2k revs with no acceleration. This caused a few difficult situations on faster roads, but I got used to driving around it and it would almost always go away if I stopped and switched off the engine for a minute or two then start off again.

That seems to not be the case any more. Now I get the same dramatic loss of power but after a hot start and (seemingly) when ambient temps are high. I have no problem starting from hot, but it has no 'get-up-and-go' for a few miles until under bonnet temps have come down a bit. To me it seems that something changes when it's hot. Heat soak under the bonnet is affecting something. Wiring, vacuum pipes, sensor or valve performance??? Yesterday was particularly bad as it just didn't clear and was on and off through my whole journey home from work. It was almost undrivable!

I do also get occasional hesitation when accelerating up through the gears (usually 2nd and 3rd). This is tends to be only very short lived and clears itself and I continue.

The EML only very rarely comes on when the symptoms persist. It did this yesterday so I hooked it up to my very basic ODBII reader and got P2226 code. 

I am very reluctant to spend a fortune with main dealers telling me I need a new turbo, or going through replacing sensors etc, especially as the car has little value anyway. I have been reading some discussions on here relating to SCVs, VSVs and MAPs, but I admit to getting confused by it all. I don't have the tools or knowledge to get too involved in electrical testing individual components, so am not sure what to do here. 

Any advice most gratefully received.


Pic of the offending article, just because!


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  • pstruck changed the title to Hot running probs

I had hesitation to where I got put into limp mode, not sure if it helps but I've just stripped the egr valve and cleaned and for now at least all seems to be going alot better, hope this helps

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Will add the EGR to my list of possibles and one which I should at leat be able to do myself. 

I’ve just been out and the coller evening temps meant it started and ran ok initially. Once again though after a brief stop the power loss reared its head again.

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Figured I'd start with the easy and cheap options first and check the state of the boost control valve/sensors, their electrical connections and the vacuum pipes.

No obvious signs of pipes split or leaking but I'm going to replace them anyway. No obvious electric connection issues, but all connectors cleaned up and a little spray of WD40. Visibly the MAP, MAF and VSV appear ok, but I'm aware the could be things going on (or not) unseen here so without proper testing I cannot confirm that their ok.

Here's the an odd thing though. I could see some non-standard wiring going on the right hand side of the engine, above the EGR. A coupe of spade end wires just pushed into a connector. Then upon removal it became clear that the VRV looked nothing like I was expecting. A little research revealed that it was in fact a Pierburg item from a Vauxhall! It's clearly been doing its job ok-ish, but someone has obviously had issues before and got hold of a non-Toyota part and stuffed it on in the hope it would work. I think I shall try to get the correct item and fit it, even if its a salvage one (risky) as a new one is around £200!

The EGR is then next on my list. This will be removed and cleaned. Then I'll turn my attention to the SCVs and try to determine if all is well there. 

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To keep the commentary running:

Some low cost work completed. Cleaned the EGR and MAF. Replaced vacuum pipes. Unfortunately no real improvement.

I did notice the EGR was quite notchy/sticky near the full extent of the plunger/valve movement. Is this normal or likely to be causing issues? How far does the valve actually open during normal operation?

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