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Clutch on 2013 manual 1.3...persistent fault


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Have a recurring fault with the clutch. Over past 2 years, the clutch pedal goes to the floor and can’t engage the gears. Brought it to my local mechanic, and he topped up the reservoir. The fault came back, and mechanic could not find anything ( no leaks ) so went back to dealer, who replaced the master cylinder in September 2020. Now the fault is back, car stopped and clutch pedal went to the floor and couldn’t engage gears. 
 

Losing faith in the dealer, they recommended a whole new clutch kit, but brought car back from dealer before I went ahead, and it’s driving normally, but worried when it will next stop working. 
 

does anyone have any experience of this problem? Or any thoughts on what to do next. 

 

 

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That's odd

The clutch pedal has a spring, the bushing maybe worn and pulling the pedal to one side. Where are you located ? 5 or 6 speed ?

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Hi there, it is the 6 speed. My wife has had this issue last year. Car drives ok for a few months, then one day the pedal feels different and later that day it goes to the floor. Won’t engage and you can’t get it into gear. Topped up the fluid the 1st time and a few weeks or months, same thing happens. 
took it to dealer, and they diagnosed as a new master clutch cylinder, so this was fitted. Then last week we are back to the same issue, pedal feels funny and an hour later on the same journey it goes completely again and can’t engage gears at all.

local mechanic says he can’t see any leak, and he kept it and drove it for 5 days, he checked the bell housing and underneath so he didn’t see anything.

through a buddy who looks after a classic car of mine, he heard from another Toyota person “ as a rule, those Yaris clutch slave cylinders do not give trouble, but there is a pipe that can leak, but only if it has been undone before. Usual procedure is when they do a clutch they order a new pipe as well so it must connect either outside the gearbox, or inside the bell housing”.

thoughts?

 

 

 

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I'd try spraying some lubricant around the clutch pedal pivot (WD40 will do, although it's not a true lubricant).

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If it's not losing fluid it must be something else, iirc RHD cars use metal pedal, the pedal is assisted by a return spring and the shaft is held by a pin and clevis

I will follow up in a while when I have access to the info

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If I'm not mistaken, your car has a hydraulic thrust bearing, ie fluid is pumped into the unit to activate the clutch release. If no other faults can be found else where, this may be faulty. As getting to the unit will be expensive in labour, I would eliminate any other possibilities first.

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Thanks for the comments, appreciate them. Will be keeping a close eye on fluid levels each week, and also looking for any signs of leaks around the bell housing, and hoping monitoring will  prevent a recurrence of the fault. i will dip the master cylinder and record the level, so then I will know for sure if it’s going down and by how much.

a new slave cylinder and replacement pipe may fix it, will mention thrust bearing to the mechanic before he starts to replace slave cylinder if that’s the way we go. 

Will re-post with final outcome.
 

 

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The slave is a gearbox out job as it's the concentric type and fits over the input shaft - while you're at it do the clutch and pressure plate

get down in the footwell and give the pedal a good look over, move it side to side to see if there is any play

Just out of curiosity, is the rubber on the pedal worn on one corner/edge ?

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