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*Pls help*Just bought my first Celica and already it needs repairing.


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I’ve bought my first celica in the UK, it’s a 2005 silver and it looked very good, I paid £1100 from a garage which didn’t look too pleasing to say the least. They agreed to change the front pads and put in a new Battery included with the price, the guy I spoke to said he needed to take it out for the test drive just in case I stalled it because it still had the previous Battery which was practically dead, so at that point red flags, but it drove beautifully and there didn’t seem to be any problems, now comes the day I pick it up, started it up, already regretting it as the revs went to around 2000 then very slightly fluctuated between 900-1100 whilst idleing, drove it on the motorway and thought I’d see what it can do, third gear around 3000 rpm put my foot all the way down….nothing 7 seconds later it slowly picked up. That’s not even the worst part, I decided to go round back onto the motorway to see if it’s my terrible driving or if something is seriously wrong, again third gear 3000 rpm but this time it accelerated to 7000 rpm but didn’t seem to be moving forward much then came a burning smell which I’m 90% is the clutch as for some unfortunate reasons I know the dreaded smell. Apart from that, in the lower gears it drives like a dream, anybody got any ideas on why it could be or if they’ve experienced this before. Sorry for the long read, I just needed to cram everything in.

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Idle issue is likely to be a vacuum leak - clutch - nothing you can do apart from changing it, with full clutch kit

 

If you can, get it in the air and have a look under it, most garages will give it the once over for a small fee, did you check the previous MOT's ?

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1 hour ago, flash22 said:

Idle issue is likely to be a vacuum leak - clutch - nothing you can do apart from changing it, with full clutch kit

 

If you can, get it in the air and have a look under it, most garages will give it the once over for a small fee, did you check the previous MOT's ?

Previous MOT’s aren’t anything serious just stuff like brakes and light intensity etc… Another alarming thing is I was told it had full service history but after closer inspection after buying it I see it goes up to 2017, the overheating issue is my main priority as I don’t want it leading to a cracked block, the coolant level is below minimum and doesn’t look like to be leaking, there’s no white smoke coming from the engine or the exhaust and the fan sounds like it’s in tip top condition seeing as it was putting in a shift to try to cool it down, Any ideas? I’m thinking possible thermostat issue.

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I would do a pressure test on the coolant system, you will find any leaks quickly, i would also run the car up with the heater on hot, fan on full and see if it's blowing hot, if not its either air locked or the heater matrix is blocked - it would hurt to flush it and put in new coolant but inspect the water pump first

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36 minutes ago, flash22 said:

I would do a pressure test on the coolant system, you will find any leaks quickly, i would also run the car up with the heater on hot, fan on full and see if it's blowing hot, if not its either air locked or the heater matrix is blocked - it would hurt to flush it and put in new coolant but inspect the water pump first

What gets eliminated if the heater blows hot air, and are there any obvious things to look out for when looking at the water pump? Sorry for all these questions, I’m just beginning to train to become a mechanic, so maybe something like this is what I need but I wish it didn’t happen like this, if you know what I mean.

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2 hours ago, Brooski said:

Previous MOT’s aren’t anything serious just stuff like brakes and light intensity etc… Another alarming thing is I was told it had full service history but after closer inspection after buying it I see it goes up to 2017, the overheating issue is my main priority as I don’t want it leading to a cracked block, the coolant level is below minimum and doesn’t look like to be leaking, there’s no white smoke coming from the engine or the exhaust and the fan sounds like it’s in tip top condition seeing as it was putting in a shift to try to cool it down, Any ideas? I’m thinking possible thermostat issue.

Was it overheating every time you drove it?

You should fix that problem before it cracks the head or the block.

Thermostat is designed to fail open, so would cause a cooler engine temp than normal, not over heating.

You may have  blockages (rust, mineral deposits) in coolant lines or radiator that obstruct coolant flow, causing overheat. Try a bottle of mineral dissolver to dissolve any deposit.  If that works you should flush coolant after.

Or perhaps your water pump has failed?

 

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11 hours ago, CAPTAIN SOLO said:

Was it overheating every time you drove it?

You should fix that problem before it cracks the head or the block.

Thermostat is designed to fail open, so would cause a cooler engine temp than normal, not over heating.

You may have  blockages (rust, mineral deposits) in coolant lines or radiator that obstruct coolant flow, causing overheat. Try a bottle of mineral dissolver to dissolve any deposit.  If that works you should flush coolant after.

Or perhaps your water pump has failed?

 

When I took it on the test drive which was about 10 minutes it seemed fine, the fan wasn’t going ballistic, everything just seemed normal, when I drove it home (about 30 mins) it was red hot and the fan was going mental, another thing I forgot to mention is after than had gone mental there seemed to be a breathing noise every other second, it sounded like it was trying to suck air in, that was near the top of the bonnet behind the engine, so I’m thinking a pipe could be disconnected there. How would I wash it out, what tools would I need, I don’t have many so what type of stuff do I need? Sorry for the lengthy reply and thank you for the help so far.

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54 minutes ago, Scarlett Arrow said:

Clutch..Aisin

Radiator..Koyo

Coolant..Toyota Pink LongLife

I’ve seen Toyotas super long life in pink, would that do the trick?

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Tbh mate I'd be keeping it a lot more simpler than that, id be taking it back to the garage asap.

Sounds like at the v worse they sold it just in the nick of time.

Overheatin gs one of the few anomalies of these cars and altho it can be cheap to fix can be tr icky too and can lead to expensive engine damage potentially, likely causes, air lock/bleeding prob, new/leaking ra d, heater matrix.

The clutch can be sorted at some places not too expensively at some places, but you've still encountered probably the most expensive wear and tear item you're likely to encounter immediately.

I'd be letting that garage know ASAP pal.

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56 minutes ago, gezhenry said:

Tbh mate I'd be keeping it a lot more simpler than that, id be taking it back to the garage asap.

Sounds like at the v worse they sold it just in the nick of time.

Overheatin gs one of the few anomalies of these cars and altho it can be cheap to fix can be tr icky too and can lead to expensive engine damage potentially, likely causes, air lock/bleeding prob, new/leaking ra d, heater matrix.

The clutch can be sorted at some places not too expensively at some places, but you've still encountered probably the most expensive wear and tear item you're likely to encounter immediately.

I'd be letting that garage know ASAP pal.

I’ve let them know but they’ve just said they’ll come down and take it for a drive which I’ve refused, I’ve contacted a mobile mechanic I know to come and do a full check over of it, and just pray to god that it’s nothing major, the garage I bought it off are just being real ubikwipes about it.

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Personally I don’t think declining the selling garage a drive is a good move. If you bought the car with a fault that wasn’t declared then you have a chance of refusing it, but you must give the seller a chance to repair it. Don’t shut doors that are open. You have 30 days to act. Consumer Rights Act 2015. Check it out on internet.  Don’t miss the chance to sort this, don’t let your love for a Celica to cost a fortune on day 1.

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Ditto, the overheating could be a fairly easy cheapish fix, but that definitely sounds like a slipping clutch 'll be required, the garage sounded at least quite amenable in changing the pads Battery and offering to come out but the non-parcipitatory test drive defo sounds a bit suspect, I can't advise on the best course of act ion for you to take for redress, but looking on the positive side 1100 for an otherwise good Celica is quite good if those other Achilles heels of the car can be rectified too at not much more additional cost at the sametime.

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  • FROSTYBALLS changed the title to *Pls help*Just bought my first Celica and already it needs repairing.

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