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Brake Judder


Joe144
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I had some brake judder but only slowly down from higher speeds. Lived with it as i knew 

she was due her Test and might be picked up there but the brakes got the all clear at the 

NCT ..only failure being corroded brake pipe. Any good way of checking the Discs to see

it they are warped ? Thanks. Joe. 

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Hi,

That kind of high speed braking judder is typical of worn/slighty distorted front  discs.

Would bet renewing the axle pair plus new pads will cure that problem.

If doing it yourself, ensure that the axle face that the discs sit on has been wire brushed to remove any rust / debris.

Where was the corroded brake pipe, by the rear axle ?

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More than likely the cause of your problem is a warped brake disc, or discs.

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1 hour ago, oldcodger said:

Hi,

That kind of high speed braking judder is typical of worn/slighty distorted front  discs.

Would bet renewing the axle pair plus new pads will cure that problem.

If doing it yourself, ensure that the axle face that the discs sit on has been wire brushed to remove any rust / debris.

Where was the corroded brake pipe, by the rear axle ?

Sound thanks very much, what's your feeling about sticking a pair of discs on the front and pads ? Would you renew all 4 ? I havent gotten around to the brake 

pipe yet, took the left strut out today and replaced the shock, first time , wasn't too bad but i was moving fairly slow on account of it being my first time and the sun !!!! I'm not sure of the layout of the pipe yet, haven't looked at all and how much corrosion they are subjected too and in what places, i'll start my research soon. For now I'm going to look at the CV boots, one is obviously bad, the boot is completely split, left hand side, outer boot, shame the joint goes bad so quickly when the boot splits, does the joint split the boot or does a split boot cause the CV joint to fail ??...Thanks very much once again ..for clean up tip before placing the discs. Joe. 

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1 hour ago, Sean1 said:

More than likely the cause of your problem is a warped brake disc, or discs.

Sean I thought that might be the case after a little research online etc. But also was wondering if there is a way of telling a warp disc, i suppose spinning quite slowly through the pads might reveal it ? 

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16 hours ago, oldcodger said:

Hi,

That kind of high speed braking judder is typical of worn/slighty distorted front  discs.

Would bet renewing the axle pair plus new pads will cure that problem.

If doing it yourself, ensure that the axle face that the discs sit on has been wire brushed to remove any rust / debris.

Where was the corroded brake pipe, by the rear axle ?

Yes rear axle so it says on the test but ive yet to take a look both sides ?  

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15 minutes ago, Joe144 said:

Yes rear axle so it says on the test but ive yet to take a look both sides ?  

Sorry that's not a question ...both sides rear ..i might take a look later on today

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Hi, if there is enough material on both discs and pads I can give you a tip what to do instead of changing any parts. Talking about all 4 corners:

remove pads, callipers and discs, clean extremely well with wire brush or rotary wire brush all metal parts that make contact with each other, discs, hubs, and the wheels from inside, everything should be clean to bare metal, clean the brake pads too with brush and brake cleaner spray and install everything back. DO NOT Use any anti-seize or grease anywhere except slider pins! Clean the slider pins too and lubricate them with silicone grease. Make sure pistons move freely and retract after brake is released, if your brake fluid is older than 3-4 years change it too old fashioned way , someone to help you pump the pedal. Brakes will need bed in process again and will not have good stopping power in the next 50-100 miles but after that if everything is done correctly you should not have any judder anymore. 
Good luck 👍

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2 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Hi, if there is enough material on both discs and pads I can give you a tip what to do instead of changing any parts. Talking about all 4 corners:

remove pads, callipers and discs, clean extremely well with wire brush or rotary wire brush all metal parts that make contact with each other, discs, hubs, and the wheels from inside, everything should be clean to bare metal, clean the brake pads too with brush and brake cleaner spray and install everything back. DO NOT Use any anti-seize or grease anywhere except slider pins! Clean the slider pins too and lubricate them with silicone grease. Make sure pistons move freely and retract after brake is released, if your brake fluid is older than 3-4 years change it too old fashioned way , someone to help you pump the pedal. Brakes will need bed in process again and will not have good stopping power in the next 50-100 miles but after that if everything is done correctly you should not have any judder anymore. 
Good luck 👍

Excellent Tony, thanks for the well laid out and thorough process description. I might well give it a go, why not ? As there seems to be a lot left on the pads and the discs don't seem too bad. It will help me get familiarised with the braking system and bleeding the brakes would be a good exercise for me too in itself. I'm getting prepared to change the CV joint and boot etc. Wonder do you have any experience of doing this ? One guy a neighbour of mine, professional mechanic said no need to take out the drive shaft, i get what he is sayings but he said you can hammer the CV joint off ...another guy i see doing it took the drive shaft out and taps the old CV joint off very patiently and delicately indeed ?? 

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15 minutes ago, Joe144 said:

Excellent Tony, thanks for the well laid out and thorough process description. I might well give it a go, why not ? As there seems to be a lot left on the pads and the discs don't seem too bad. It will help me get familiarised with the braking system and bleeding the brakes would be a good exercise for me too in itself. I'm getting prepared to change the CV joint and boot etc. Wonder do you have any experience of doing this ? One guy a neighbour of mine, professional mechanic said no need to take out the drive shaft, i get what he is sayings but he said you can hammer the CV joint off ...another guy i see doing it took the drive shaft out and taps the old CV joint off very patiently and delicately indeed ?? 

Hi,

I haven’t done any cv joints(boots) of yet but I know you can do outer side without removing the shaft from the gearbox., been changing the whole shafts previously. You will need a good quality socket and long breaker bar to undo the shaft nut, these are tighten to 245Nm. If you have a mechanic friend around then you will be alright. Forgot to mention important thing in my earlier post., torque wheel nuts to 102Nm without using any lube on them too, it is important to have all nuts same torque. 👍

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No bother Tony, thanks very much. I've been considering that option too, changing the drive shaft so might go down that route too. 245 nm fair ole torque that but as you say with the right socket and breaker bar and a bit of patience, it's do-able. Was also considering an impact driver but not sure i can justify it at the moment. I managed to open both strut nuts which apparently torqued to 150nm handy enough with half inch ratchet which extends. Ok i'll bare that in mind with the lug nut torque ive torqued the lugs to 100 nm ..is the lube a bit of a no no on lugs in general do you think? 

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24 minutes ago, Joe144 said:

No bother Tony, thanks very much. I've been considering that option too, changing the drive shaft so might go down that route too. 245 nm fair ole torque that but as you say with the right socket and breaker bar and a bit of patience, it's do-able. Was also considering an impact driver but not sure i can justify it at the moment. I managed to open both strut nuts which apparently torqued to 150nm handy enough with half inch ratchet which extends. Ok i'll bare that in mind with the lug nut torque ive torqued the lugs to 100 nm ..is the lube a bit of a no no on lugs in general do you think? 

Yes the lube can of set the torque values on the lug nuts, what I do when they are rusty, I clean the bolts with brush and then spray some wd-40 and let them seat for a while to evaporate the lube and then wipe them with dry cloth, after that they look just like new factory ones covered in machine Oil from manufacturing  process. 👍

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