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Poor idle


Smith17279
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Nope I didn't do anything, however noticed a noise around the turbo, 

Right rear side behind the intercooler.... 

It sounds like hospital oxygen breathers, going with the idle noise... 

And I seem to have spotted a turbo leak.... Seems like oil is dripping on a pipe.... 

I'm not sure about the oil just the noise it's like a hissing sound, 

And goes with the idle going up and down... 

Seems like a vacuum leak somewhere or a hole on a plastic intake probably, or a blown turbo a hole somewhere there

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If it made so far to developer an oil leak, i'd try going back to the dealer and asking it to be fixed for free, you should still have new car warranty.

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On 9/18/2021 at 7:34 PM, 1.8 hybrid said:

have you thought of using a service from Terra Clean

https://www.terraclean.co.uk/

Did you ever used them ? Is any point to use them ? I have the same problems with my 1.2 engine ,idle when it starts , sometimes I have a feeling like is not responding like is supposed to be , is that will affect my warnity with Toyota ? Thanks 😊

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1 hour ago, Filip.08 said:

Did you ever used them ? Is any point to use them ? I have the same problems with my 1.2 engine ,idle when it starts , sometimes I have a feeling like is not responding like is supposed to be , is that will affect my warnity with Toyota ? Thanks 😊

I think you have different symptoms though.... 

Mine on cold starts is perfect, 

However whenever warm issues arise without the ac... 

Rpm drop suddenly then go back up, and without the a/c there is a engine shake, with the a/c on smooth as butter 😅😅

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10 hours ago, furtula said:

If it made so far to developer an oil leak, i'd try going back to the dealer and asking it to be fixed for free, you should still have new car warranty.

I'm guessing the turbo must be leaking oil a bit, and since the location of it uphill and uphill from intake, oil gets stuck in the downhill and starts poring out... 

I'm going to have to investigate it, to be sure if it truly looses oil 

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  • 4 months later...
On 12/4/2021 at 8:57 AM, ToyotaGR said:

I think you have different symptoms though.... 

Mine on cold starts is perfect, 

However whenever warm issues arise without the ac... 

Rpm drop suddenly then go back up, and without the a/c there is a engine shake, with the a/c on smooth as butter 😅😅

Yep, mine is exactly the same

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  • 7 months later...
 
hey guys, did you solve the problem? my C-HR 1.2T seems to have the same problem, does anyone have a solution?
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Patience is a virtue not many possess today.

Turn the A/C off, if the idle is ok, then there's no problem. A/C draws a lot and the car is trying to keep the idle as low as possible, so sometimes gets a bit shaky.

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On 7/19/2021 at 8:43 AM, Smith17279 said:

Hi all, i have a 2015 auris 1.2t, had it from new and been a great car, but for the past year or so its started to idle poorly, when coming to a stop it drops rapidly to 500rpm then goes back up to around 600 rpm, it judders like its missing, been in to toyota who cant find anything wrong.

Ive changed the plugs, coil packs, gave it a service, which i do regularly but still no better, tried to reprogram the throttle body but no joy.

Any suggestions would be great

Thanks all 

my friend could you tell me if you solved the problem?
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1 hour ago, furtula said:

Patience is a virtue not many possess today.

Turn the A/C off, if the idle is ok, then there's no problem. A/C draws a lot and the car is trying to keep the idle as low as possible, so sometimes gets a bit shaky.

My A/C is off all the time

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The cheapest thing is by doing inspection/oil change and get Relax-warranty covererage first.  2 months later you can come again and ask for fixing this issue.  Otherwise, you may ending up replacing many unecessary parts out of your pockets. 

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20 minutes ago, AisinW said:

The cheapest thing is by doing inspection/oil change and get Relax-warranty covererage first.  2 months later you can come again and ask for fixing this issue.  Otherwise, you may ending up replacing many unecessary parts out of your pockets. 

That is a pre existing condition and would not be covered on Relax 

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I had the very "lumpy" idle issue start last Friday.

Contacted "Pinkstones" Toyota in Stoke-on_Trent.

Took it in yesterday and they looked at it. 

Turns out that the EGR was totally bunged up and it was stuck in the open position.

They renewed the EGR valve and now my car is running spot on again.

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exac

57 minutes ago, Parts-King said:

That is a pre existing condition and would not be covered on Relax 

I feel it is one of the opportunity to slap Toyota dealership practice in some European countries.  Many dealership in Germany and France marked up the oil change/inspection cost 50-80% more than before Relax-Warranty exist.  It is so obvious that the price is 50-80% more during Relax warranty period (3rd year/60k miles to 10 years/100k miles).  If you do not tell them, they will never know about this issue unless they test drive it in bumpy roads.  In 2019, the cost for annual inspection/Oil change was about €220, and suddenly after Relax-Warranty, the rate is €320-€400, depends on the city and which dealership.

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52 minutes ago, Sooty said:

I had the very "lumpy" idle issue start last Friday.

Contacted "Pinkstones" Toyota in Stoke-on_Trent.

Took it in yesterday and they looked at it. 

Turns out that the EGR was totally bunged up and it was stuck in the open position.

They renewed the EGR valve and now my car is running spot on again.

 

is your car also a C-HR 1.2T? What year and how many milage does it have?

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22 hours ago, Viktor79 said:

 

is your car also a C-HR 1.2T? What year and how many milage does it have?

No Viktor, it is a Gen 3 Prius. 

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5 hours ago, Sooty said:

No Viktor, it is a Gen 3 Prius. 

Scooty year and milagre?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Bruce, 78k miles is relatively low unless you exclusively city driver. The EGR clogging is caused by open loop and oil consumption. How much oil do you need to top up every 10k miles? It is advisable for 2009-2013 2ZR-FXE engine to do 5k miles oil change to prevent further clogged piston rings and oil consumption issues unless you  drive long distance daily. 

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  • 8 months later...

I have the same problem after I removed the timing chain due to the engine not cranking. everything looked fine with the chain so I reinstalled it. The car fires on all cylinders for a while but wouldn't idle. I wiped the throttle body with a dry cloth which improved the idling but after a few minutes the idly drops and it appeared to fire on one cylinder. I did a compressions test and these are the results. The spark plugs look ok. 

373473050_1043674900326607_2881542336365334724_n.jpg

375018307_1000863721222738_4730565088819699929_n.jpg

373458265_699660345539518_7262746463373585217_n.jpg

373472320_686574146856189_5806891089938412894_n.jpg

372153874_625944566356527_755180728475980750_n.jpg

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1 hour ago, jamesdonlan said:

I have the same problem after I removed the timing chain due to the engine not cranking. everything looked fine with the chain so I reinstalled it. The car fires on all cylinders for a while but wouldn't idle. I wiped the throttle body with a dry cloth which improved the idling but after a few minutes the idly drops and it appeared to fire on one cylinder. I did a compressions test and these are the results. The spark plugs look ok. 

373473050_1043674900326607_2881542336365334724_n.jpg

375018307_1000863721222738_4730565088819699929_n.jpg

373458265_699660345539518_7262746463373585217_n.jpg

373472320_686574146856189_5806891089938412894_n.jpg

372153874_625944566356527_755180728475980750_n.jpg

Cylinder 3 is at 175 psi and cylinder 4 at 140 psi 35 psi difference between cylinders service manual states that pressure difference should be no more than 15 psi between cylinders.there is a possibility that you have carbon buildup on intake valves causing them to have compression loss probably a good guess 

 

Standard Compression Pressure
1080 kPa (11.0 kgf/cm2, 157 psi)
Minimum Compression Pressure
880 kPa (9.0 kgf/cm2, 128 psi)
Pressure Difference between Each Cylinder
100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 15 psi) or less
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2 hours ago, jamesdonlan said:

I have the same problem after I removed the timing chain due to the engine not cranking. everything looked fine with the chain so I reinstalled it. The car fires on all cylinders for a while but wouldn't idle. I wiped the throttle body with a dry cloth which improved the idling but after a few minutes the idly drops and it appeared to fire on one cylinder. I did a compressions test and these are the results. The spark plugs look ok. 

373473050_1043674900326607_2881542336365334724_n.jpg

375018307_1000863721222738_4730565088819699929_n.jpg

373458265_699660345539518_7262746463373585217_n.jpg

373472320_686574146856189_5806891089938412894_n.jpg

372153874_625944566356527_755180728475980750_n.jpg

id recomend you to do a carbon clean on intake valves take pictures and post them here to see.... there was a tsb technical service bulletin for this engine 8nr fts 1.2 turbo EG-00094T-TME "8NR-FTS Cylinder Misfire DTC P030100, P030200, P030300, P030400, P030027, P030085" for carbon buildup on intake valves causing cylinder misfire code...even if you dont have a dtc fault code you might have carbon buildup causing these issues would be nice to do a carbon clean on intake valves and reply here 

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did as well a relative compression test using thechstream showing a small difference 

cylinder 1 289 rpm 

cylinder 2 291 rpm 

cylinder 3 291 rpm 

cylinder 4 290 rpm 

not really big for a relative compression test however showing small difference on cylinder 2 and 3 mainly probably carbon buildup causing that issue just not as heavy deposits to make it misfire yet. cylinder 2 and 3 have mainly the pcv valve wich makes the intake valves carbon faster than the other cylinders makes me think it should need a intake valve clean in 40 000 to 80 000 km from now 

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