Weird rattle in certain rpm

[CrayCZ]

One simple question - how to check oil pressure? Both cold and warm, idle and revved? 

I have OBD scanner but none of my apps read the value. 

[tavy]

13 hours ago, Catlover said:

Remembering 45 years ago is not too much a problem, it’s what went on 5 minutes ago……that is the problem.  🤪

Thanx to google maps I remember where I went 35 years ago...😀

[CrayCZ]

19 hours ago, CrayCZ said:

One simple question - how to check oil pressure? Both cold and warm, idle and revved? 

I have OBD scanner but none of my apps read the value. 

Apparently Toyota doesn't have such value, simplicity itself. 

From what I observed today the tick is there during drive on second gear. Third gear not so much and fourth fifth can't hear anything at those revs. It is somehow related to pedal=load=vibrations=oil pressure. 

[TonyHSD]

2 hours ago, CrayCZ said:

Apparently Toyota doesn't have such value, simplicity itself. 

From what I observed today the tick is there during drive on second gear. Third gear not so much and fourth fifth can't hear anything at those revs. It is somehow related to pedal=load=vibrations=oil pressure. 

What is the mileage of your car and have you try any additives in the fuel? That sound  is kind of familiar to me, my engine sometimes maybe sounds like that, not sure though, maybe some other cars engines. Why don’t you try some wynns injector cleaner or catalytic converter and lambda sensor cleaner, and take the car for a motorway drive. Very important: make sure you use exact mixture as described on the label. I had some issues with pulsating on hard acceleration and after using wynns in the fuel the engine is running fine again , no issues anymore. I will post this video for comparison of my engine after egr cleaned. 

[CrayCZ]

7 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

What is the mileage of your car and have you try any additives in the fuel? That sound  is kind of familiar to me, my engine sometimes maybe sounds like that, not sure though, maybe some other cars engines. Why don’t you try some wynns injector cleaner or catalytic converter and lambda sensor cleaner, and take the car for a motorway drive. Very important: make sure you use exact mixture as described on the label. I had some issues with pulsating on hard acceleration and after using wynns in the fuel the engine is running fine again , no issues anymore. I will post this video for comparison of my engine after egr cleaned. 

F96BFEB4-9C3F-418B-87CD-4D6E6F333405.MOV

 

The provided mov link is not working for me. I can say that vacuum pump sound in valvematic that can be found on YouTube is somewhat similar to what I hear. 

Car has 65000 kms as for now. Since I bought first few tanks were on 100 octane premium + fuel additive VIF. Last few months runs on premium 95(regular + station add) and VIF every second tank. 

The car gets to highways regularly few times a month plus I drive harder on B roads longer drives. I've done everything as I wrote since I don't know how the car was used before - probably short runs or city use mainly based on place I got it. But it is from Toyotas business operative plan so I can't exclude long business trips either. 

Based on my research and YouTube reviews I'm not willing to put "snake oils" into engine with this low mileage and rather give it few oil changes (which should get rid of any possible clogs) and quality fuel with additives to get rid of possible carbon deposits from city use

[CrayCZ]

@TonyHSD I tried capture it on video today, made two videos (cold and warm; 20kms between) in garage drivers window down.

@furtula Let me aks if I understand oil weights correctly, my 0w20 means that 0w has viscosity 3,8 mm2/s and 20 has 6,9 mm2/s both on 100 celsius. So after warming the car up the oil I use is not thick enough given that engine temp when cold could by somewhere around ambient temp and viscosity in hundreds mm2/s and not rattling (probably not lubricating enough too). So I should use heavier weight oil, altough difference between 0w20 and 5w30 is so small (3,8/6,9 vs 3,8/9,3)😟 What about using 5w40? Toyota manual mentions 0w20, 5w30, 10w30 and 15w40

 

Cold, no rattle:

https://youtu.be/-YlNU9vWd0c

 Warmed, rattling:

https://youtu.be/wnHp7Twrknk

[furtula]

Your engine was designed to use 0W20, however people tend to swittch to 5W30 when mileage hits 100k mark.

The reason for the graph showing multiple oils to be acceptable, is due to different climates. Ideally one should use different viscosity oils for winter/summer, if there are big temperature difference, for example -20C average in winter, and 30C in summer.

I personally would stick with 5W30.

I understand your reasoning, however the car lubrication would work better when oil is warmed up, and less viscous, than it would be when cold and with higher viscosity, being sticky, so to say. 

As the engine warms up, so do the parts, could be that when this happens, the lifter in question starts to get sticky due to diesel oil being used previously.

Was the issue present before you had the oil changed 1st time? Maybe search for some videos regarding sticky lifters, see if sound matches to what you have.

I personally would drive with it, maybe in time it would get better. 

 

[CrayCZ]

1 hour ago, furtula said:

Your engine was designed to use 0W20, however people tend to swittch to 5W30 when mileage hits 100k mark.

The reason for the graph showing multiple oils to be acceptable, is due to different climates. Ideally one should use different viscosity oils for winter/summer, if there are big temperature difference, for example -20C average in winter, and 30C in summer.

I personally would stick with 5W30.

I understand your reasoning, however the car lubrication would work better when oil is warmed up, and less viscous, than it would be when cold and with higher viscosity, being sticky, so to say. 

As the engine warms up, so do the parts, could be that when this happens, the lifter in question starts to get sticky due to diesel oil being used previously.

Was the issue present before you had the oil changed 1st time? Maybe search for some videos regarding sticky lifters, see if sound matches to what you have.

I personally would drive with it, maybe in time it would get better. 

 

The sound wasn't present before the garage changed to 5w30 ACEA C3 (diesel spec). Also could be masked by seller with thicker oil or some additives (service book says 0w20 since new). I will change to 5w30 liqui moly API SP as soon as I can and then will see.

 

Engine designed to 0w20 I personally think this is because of emission and efficiency restrictions of EU - this engine design is almost 20 years old... API SN oils are present from 2010. This is the reason whole valvematic exist - same power more efficient less emission = EURO 5. This corresponds to engine oils specs API and ILSAC. I doubt the C3 oil could do any mechanical damage in such low mileage on it - bigger chance it was masked by seller albeit being Toyota authorized dealer. 

[CrayCZ]

Hello there,

I have some news after a while. Two weeks ago I changed oil - I decided to go with Millers Oils 5w30 LSPI (API SN, ILSAC GF6...). I also bought their flush, but decided not to use it, I also didn't use any sort of teflon/snakeoil/metabond aditives.

Drove few hundred kilometers and voilá, the ticking is gone (so far as I cant hear it behind the wheel). I will confirm this from under the hood as soon as I get the chance and other person.

Anyway, the car runs smoother than before, from inside the engine can be barely heard when hot, from outside the car it is miles quieter than before. Cold starts are the same, MPG too.

🙂 Thanks to everyone who participated on this topic.

[Tomv]

Last time my dealer did 2nd maintenance on my Corolla I was told that they will put in 5w30 instead of 0w20 oil cause they were told by Toyota that this is now the preferred variant. When I asked for details  they told me that 0w20 is not bad for the engine and it's aimed at low emissions/ecology and that 5w30 is better for the engine.

My engine was not loud in any way but with 5w30 is definitely more quiet . Also noticed that when breaking with engine while going down the hill now it breaks noticeably more. Consumption is a bit higher though.

 

[TonyHSD]

58 minutes ago, CrayCZ said:

Hello there,

I have some news after a while. Two weeks ago I changed oil - I decided to go with Millers Oils 5w30 LSPI (API SN, ILSAC GF6...). I also bought their flush, but decided not to use it, I also didn't use any sort of teflon/snakeoil/metabond aditives.

Drove few hundred kilometers and voilá, the ticking is gone (so far as I cant hear it behind the wheel). I will confirm this from under the hood as soon as I get the chance and other person.

Anyway, the car runs smoother than before, from inside the engine can be barely heard when hot, from outside the car it is miles quieter than before. Cold starts are the same, MPG too.

🙂 Thanks to everyone who participated on this topic.

Good to hear positive outcome 👍 If you want to make your engine even quieter you can try some premium fuel like 99 octane or whatever you have in your country. I started recently using 99 E5 and discovered a huge difference in performance and noise reduction from the engine, now it’s my fuel of choice when available, my car is a hybrid if that make any difference at all👌  

[CrayCZ]

16 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

Good to hear positive outcome 👍 If you want to make your engine even quieter you can try some premium fuel like 99 octane or whatever you have in your country. I started recently using 99 E5 and discovered a huge difference in performance and noise reduction from the engine, now it’s my fuel of choice when available, my car is a hybrid if that make any difference at all👌  

I use 95octane E5 regularly and every second/third tank 100octane. I didnt notice any performance difference, but this could occur in long term use...

[furtula]

Cars tend to run smoother with introduction of new lubricant, but ticking might come back once oil is a bit used up.

Still, nice to know it's nothing serious.

I remember Fifth gear doing a test about normal petrol and the fancy, higher octane one. with additives, sold by gas stations, found no real difference that would support the additional cost. I think the engines are designed with E95 in mind.

[tavy]

9 hours ago, furtula said:

I think the engines are designed with E95 in mind.

Yes, you are right, in my owners manual writes that E95 should be preferred to 99 or 100 octane gasoline, power gain us unnoticeable, also the noise, and mpg is even worse, so my engine runs very nice and well with E95 gas and Toyota 5W30 oil.

 

[CrayCZ]

12 minutes ago, tavy said:

Yes, you are right, in my owners manual writes that E95 should be preferred to 99 or 100 octane gasoline, power gain us unnoticeable, also the noise, and mpg is even worse, so my engine runs very nice and well with E95 gas and Toyota 5W30 oil.

 

Main benefit of high octane gasolines is not the power or sound... It is lubrication a and protection against corrosion inside engine. Also in nowadays, when regular gasolines are pjmped with bio components, which lower the lubrication capabilities of engine