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Looking to buy IQ, just fell in love. Anything to look for when buying? Thanks


NenaHouston
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Hi,

I've recently fallen in love with the IQ and I've got a spreadsheet containing (so far) about 10 options. I've decided on a 1.0. Do you kind people have any suggestions on what I should look for when buying? I've been using the DVLA's MOT checker so I can find details of any past fails, advisories, recalls etc. I still need to work out what the IQ2 provides beyond the standard IQ but, that aside, are there any known IQ-specific faults to look for (I'm about to research that today but this seemed like one of the best places to ask)? I genuinely tend to not get excited about things but...it feels a little like Christmas! 

Thanks in advance,

Nena

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I understand it is difficult to get to the clutch if it needs replacing, so check it’s condition out.

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Buy an auto unless it is an MMT auto.

When I drove one it (not MMT) was superb.

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The ones finished in pearlescent white can have problems with paint peeling off.

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iQ2 gets climate control, slightly darker silver wheels, fog lights and some silver trim in the rear light clusters.

Check for judder at around 1500/2000 rpm in 1.0 manual engines (clutch springs will have failed and require some work to repair the clutch).

Hope you find a good one. They're a well-built car with, generally, bullet proof engines.

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On 8/28/2021 at 10:35 AM, Catlover said:

I understand it is difficult to get to the clutch if it needs replacing, so check it’s condition out.

Not an issue, only difference being the drive shafts are at the front instead of the rear the 1.33 engine bay can be a bit tight

On 8/28/2021 at 11:15 AM, john p williams said:

Buy an auto unless it is an MMT auto.

When I drove one it (not MMT) was superb.

IQ autos are all CVT and are reliable

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Hi All,

Thanks for the helpful replies. 

On 8/28/2021 at 11:15 AM, john p williams said:

Buy an auto unless it is an MMT auto.

When I drove one it (not MMT) was superb.

Why a CVT over a manual? Is this your personal preference? Not sure but I would have thought a CVT may not last as long as a manual (not that I have any data to point to).

Thanks again.

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1 hour ago, NenaHouston said:

Hi All,

Thanks for the helpful replies. 

Why a CVT over a manual? Is this your personal preference? Not sure but I would have thought a CVT may not last as long as a manual (not that I have any data to point to).

Thanks again.

Yes, my personal preference.

A Toyota CVT is extremely reliable and I have yet to hear/ read of one failing.

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CVT's get a bad name due to Nissan/Renault Jatco gearboxes that have a habit of grenading at around 60K miles or less

 

Toyota CVT's are built by Aisin (iirc the IQ uses the K41A)

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2 minutes ago, flash22 said:

CVT's get a bad name due to Nissan/Renault Jatco gearboxes that have a habit of grenading at around 60K miles or less

 

Toyota CVT's are built by Aisin (iirc the IQ uses the K41A)

Does anyone know a failed Toyota CVT Transmission ?

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yes, over the years I have read of a few on Avensis but they usually get to 150,000 miles when they tend to get replaced rather than fixed. Basically the transmission was designed to last the average life of the car with minimal intervention (just checks on fluid level).

 

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cvt's don't fair well with bigger engines/heavier cars saying that if you keep up with the fluid changes they will last (the fluid breaks down with the heat and pressure over time

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30 minutes ago, flash22 said:

cvt's don't fair well with bigger engines/heavier cars saying that if you keep up with the fluid changes they will last (the fluid breaks down with the heat and pressure over time

Fair enough Bob but if you insert the word "generally" after the word don`t I would be able to add "The Toyota 3.5 V6 found in the current Lexus GS and RX models is however an exceptional performer with outstanding reliability statistics".

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It depends on the application if the engineers specify something 9/10 times the paper pushers will save money so say a car requires 250 ft lb spec gearbox, and the engineers say it need to be 300-350 ft lb to have longevity, the accountant comes along, nope you can have this one as it's X amount cheaper and made of chinesium

 

 

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Hi all, just wanted to say thanks. I managed to find a great little IQ, 1 owner, and full Toyota service history. I drove it a few hundred miles from the garage only to find that the air con doesn't blow cold. I should have checked everything but, this is one thing I never thought of doing. The garage may repair or, pay the price of investigating and fixing local but, if it's something relatively simple, I'll do it myself. Were my mechanic dad still alive I expect I'd have this resolved. So, I'm about to start a thread...asking about where I can locate the 'magnetic clutch relay', which I believe helps spring the air compressor into life (it doesn't seem to want to wake up). Anyway, other than that, I'm actually really happy. Thanks for all your input!

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Good to hear your sorted Nena.  Could the air con problem be resolved with a recharge?

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If you ignore the title of the post, then a few entries lower within it is a link to a copy of the workshop manual.

That might help you after you tried all options to get this fixed with the supplying dealer.

Unfortunately, the image for the relay in the manual above is exactly the same as the one you've got in your other post.

 

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Hi, thanks both. Gerg, the manual is excellent, I found it earlier and, the picture helped me understand that the relay exists but, it's not clear where it is (it doesn't seem to be in the fuse/relay box suggested by the pic. 

About 10 mins ago I started a thread here:

 

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And, now I've read more, I think I'll just get it recharged/regassed. It seems that, when levels are low, the compressor may not turn on anyway. The more you learn! Thanks!

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