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EGR Valve issues On a RAV4 2006


Rav 4
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I have a 2006 RAV4 T180 diesel with the D 4 D engine, I was experiencing power loss and have already Cleaned the DPF filter  changed the DPF sensor ,cleaned the MAF sensor and used a Turbp spray to attempt to clean any build up in the Turbo. In addition i have cleaned the EGR valve and chamber. The end result is that there are no fault codes showing but yet i still gave a loss of power issue when accelerating in a high gear where the engine drops back to 1-1500 revs and will only accelerate after dropping down to a much lower gear. I have tried changing the EGR with an after market product and this made it worse throwing up  code 400 and the usual flashing lights on the dash . Does anybody know if there is any re programming  that needs to be done when fitting a new EGR aftermarket or Denso ? Any help in resolving this issue greatly appreciated.

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1 hour ago, Rav 4 said:

I have a 2006 RAV4 T180 diesel with the D 4 D engine, I was experiencing power loss and have already Cleaned the DPF filter  changed the DPF sensor ,cleaned the MAF sensor and used a Turbp spray to attempt to clean any build up in the Turbo. In addition i have cleaned the EGR valve and chamber. The end result is that there are no fault codes showing but yet i still gave a loss of power issue when accelerating in a high gear where the engine drops back to 1-1500 revs and will only accelerate after dropping down to a much lower gear. I have tried changing the EGR with an after market product and this made it worse throwing up  code 400 and the usual flashing lights on the dash . Does anybody know if there is any re programming  that needs to be done when fitting a new EGR aftermarket or Denso ? Any help in resolving this issue greatly appreciated.

Check your original EGR valve once cleaned by shining a torch through from one side of valve to the other if you can see light the valve is faulty as it should seal when closed. 

Aftermarket EGR suppliers seem to list all the AD engines as sharing the same valve, this is true for everything except Rav4 & IS220d which have unique valves and fitting the wrong one will just give fault codes.

Also consider the EGR circuit is much more than just one valve, the intake manifold & ports into the engine also need cleaning as well as follow the EGR circuit back ensuring no blockage/restriction, beware the EGR cooler is a massive 7-10 hour job in a workshop let alone on the kerb side.

image.thumb.png.7fa8e71508a19593101fe2ea15e8036a.png

 

Also even when new and in tip top condition the car only really started to pull from around 1800 rpm yet cruises in top lower than this so for any progress in 6th the car needs a shift down.

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, Many thanks for the information, the part number that a Toyota garage provided me with for the EGR valve is 2562026902 and when looking at aftermarket products part number 2562026110 is allegedly the same; however when looking at the valve chamber i noticed the valve stem is quite different in that it seem to be coiled whereas the original part is a straight needle like fitting. Where can you find the AD number for the engine ? Thanks for the diagram although it has come through quite blurred , would it be possible for you to email to me ? Also to the right of the diagram there seems to be a part 25630 (I think ) could you please advise what this is ? I take your point about 6th gear ,unfortunately the car seems to struggle to get to/above 3,000 rpm in higher gears and as soon as you hit a hill the power drops of until you get down to at least third or even first. Many thanks 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I’m having similar issues on my old T180 and even fitted a cheap £90 egr valve from eBay which was listed as being applicable to my car,but it didn’t work and actually made things worse. Luckily I was able to return and got a refund.

It sounds to me like your lack of power might be the car going into limp mode. ?.

Last week I had a diagnostic check done on mine by a Toyota dealer which showed 4 historical fault codes which they have deleted,and everything seems fine up to now.

I asked to see.the codes but was told the mechanic wasn’t in,but that if the warning lights returned they would rescan it FOC.

As Devon said you have to spend some time with  pipe cleaner type brushes and lots of carb cleaner,a 30 minute job.

I would try another clean before buying the genuine denso egr,which are around £300 if they are still available?

Apparently certain fault codes can be caused by more than one issue,and need a process of elimination to fix

You may already this but you can temporarily erase engine warning lights by disconnecting the negative Battery terminal for an hour or so,but the lights will reappear eventually.

I keep thinking of trading mine in,but I like it and would only get 1-2k.max. I would be prepared to spend up to £800 to fix mine,as after owning for 8years it doesn’t owe me anything.

Any Toyota dealer should tell you the part numbers you want a have your engine number and some service history.

I’ll keep you posted how things develop with mine.

 

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1 minute ago, voyager t180 said:

I’m having similar issues on my old T180 and even fitted a cheap £90 egr valve from eBay which was listed as being applicable to my car,but it didn’t work and actually made things worse. Luckily I was able to return and got a refund.

It sounds to me like your lack of power might be the car going into limp mode. ?.

Last week I had a diagnostic check done on mine by a Toyota dealer which showed 4 historical fault codes which they have deleted,and everything seems fine up to now.

I asked to see.the codes but was told the mechanic wasn’t in,but that if the warning lights returned they would rescan it FOC.

As Devon said you have to spend some time cleaning the egr with  pipe cleaner type brushes and lots of carb cleaner,a 30 minute job.

I would try another clean before buying the genuine denso egr,which are around £300 if they are still available?

Apparently certain fault codes can be caused by more than one issue,and need a process of elimination to fix

You may already this but you can temporarily erase engine warning lights by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for an hour or so,but the lights will reappear eventually.

I keep thinking of trading mine in,but I like it and would only get 1-2k.max. I would be prepared to spend up to £800 to fix mine,as after owning for 8years it doesn’t owe me anything.

Any Toyota dealer should tell you the part numbers you want a have your engine number and some service history.

I’ll keep you posted how things develop with mine.

 

 

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11 hours ago, voyager t180 said:

I’m having similar issues on my old T180 and even fitted a cheap £90 egr valve from eBay which was listed as being applicable to my car,but it didn’t work and actually made things worse. Luckily I was able to return and got a refund.

It sounds to me like your lack of power might be the car going into limp mode. ?.

Last week I had a diagnostic check done on mine by a Toyota dealer which showed 4 historical fault codes which they have deleted,and everything seems fine up to now.

I asked to see.the codes but was told the mechanic wasn’t in,but that if the warning lights returned they would rescan it FOC.

As Devon said you have to spend some time with  pipe cleaner type brushes and lots of carb cleaner,a 30 minute job.

I would try another clean before buying the genuine denso egr,which are around £300 if they are still available?

Apparently certain fault codes can be caused by more than one issue,and need a process of elimination to fix

You may already this but you can temporarily erase engine warning lights by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for an hour or so,but the lights will reappear eventually.

I keep thinking of trading mine in,but I like it and would only get 1-2k.max. I would be prepared to spend up to £800 to fix mine,as after owning for 8years it doesn’t owe me anything.

Any Toyota dealer should tell you the part numbers you want a have your engine number and some service history.

I’ll keep you posted how things develop with mine.

 

Thanks  for the information , for anyone else that is reading the posts I am battling Autodoc at the moment to get them to accept a return for aftermarket EGR which was supplied by them even though they emailed me prior to purchase saying the part is correct when it is not. Reason being I fitted the part and then discovered it would not work .

 

 

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I did the same and got a full refund,they even paid the return postage costs.

you should definitely get refunded..I can’t understand what their problem is with that.

if you paid by PayPal they will look into it for you.

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Yes , i shall keep banging away at them and hopefully it will all work out. Didn’t pay by PayPal but can always file a dispute with my credit card company as a last resort.

 

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Well I have exhausted all the methods including trying to fit a new aftermarket  EGR valve from Autodoc which didn’t make any difference in fact it made it worse and now because I mounted it Autodoc will not take  it back 😡😡. My last resort  is to take it to a top quality independent specialist . I wondered if any one knows of one near Axminster in Devon ? Thanks 

 

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