Yaris hybrid mk4 fuse details.

[Sanj_40]

Hi All, I am new to this fantastic Yaris forum so pls take it easy on me 😀. 
I bought the new Yaris excel hybrid mk4 2020 and managed to loose/misplace the fuse layout and details paper which is inside the passenger side fuse box. I have looked everywhere for it and can’t find it. Can anyone owning same model car as me take a picture and share it?  That would be most appreciated.  Thanks 

[FROSTYBALLS]

Is it not covered in your owners manual?

If you have the abbreviated manual, the full manual can be downloaded from - https://www.toyota.co.uk/tme#/my-toyota/eManual

[flash22]

Fuse locations are on the fuse box lid - stick your head in the passenger footwell, remove the cover (3 tabs) and look up (p.357)

https://d24bc9lyrt5en5.cloudfront.net/Customer-Portal-Admin/emanuals/TOYOTA/OMK0010E_v2.pdf

 

[Cyker]

He's saying he's lost it - If it was an ex-demo car he bought, he may be a victim of the whole removed Dashcam stupidness someone was complaining about in another thread, where they used a piggyback fuse to power the Dashcam, which prevents the lid going back on the fusebox, so they leave it off or cable-tie it to to something, but didn't bother putting it back when the Dashcam was removed prior to sale.

[Cjohnston1982]

[Cjohnston1982]

I have a dash cam piggybacked into ‘P/OUTLET NO.1 (15A)

[Sanj_40]

Hi All, thank you so much for all the replies.  I have already downloaded the manual and as rightly said it does not have low level details of each fuse and function. The back of the fuse lid has some details but they might as well be encrypted as without the paper which normally is inside the lid (which i have misplaced) has the real details i.e. usb ports,  lighter, internal lights etc.  And you are right the reason why i lost the fuse paper is because i too installed a dash cam and piggybacked into one of the 15A fuse and absolutely right i too can't put the lid back on 😞.  Now i am in pickle as i recently added few LEDs to the passenger, driver, middle console and front doors and some how managed to blow a fuse somewhere that's stopping them from coming on, everything else is fine.   Not sure if anyone has a copy of the paper that was inside the fuse lid that has the details of each fuse. (or i am going mad and dreamt up this paper with all the details) 🙂 

[Sanj_40]

Problem solved, managed to find an old multimeter and checked all the fuses (using resistance/continuity beep), they were all fine.

So, looks like something else is stopping the ambiance lights from working.  Will have strip it all the lights out incase there is bad connection.  

[David McShee]

Which fuse is for the washer please

[Bob Sutton]

Hello everyone,

Looking for some advice regarding how to hardwire a Nextbase dash cam, into my wife's newly acquired 2022 Yaris. Cjohnson has a great photo of the fuse box cover (in his post 8th October 2021), located beneath the passenger glove box, and has used the fuse "P/OUTLET NO 1 (15A). Is that amperage a little high and would it be safer to use either USB NO 1 (7.5A) or the even lower rated, DCM (5A). However, I don't know what DCM means and would hate to use it, only to find out that I have tapped into something really important.

I am going to use a Low Profile Mini Fuse Tap (piggy back fuse holder) to get power to the dash cam. Any advice would be much appreciated, particularly from flash 22 

 

Kind regards, Bob Sutton.

   

 

 

[Graham47]

You’re confusing the fuse rating that you’re piggybacking and the fuse rating for the Dashcam.

Just use a lower rated fuse (5A) in the piggyback connector and leave the 15A fuse in the original connector.

[flash22]

a fuse tap holds 2 fuses - 1 for the original circuit and the other for the "tap", don't over think it

[Bob Sutton]

Hello Graham47 and flash22,

 

Thanks very much for your reply and information. If I understand it correctly, in the annotated screenshot attached below, would be where each of the two fuses would go, if I used the 15amp P/OUTLET NO 1, as Cjohnson1982 did in his post dated 8th October 2021. Could you please confirm if that is correct and the right way round.

Thanks again and kind regards, Bob Sutton.

 

[Dick_Dastardly]

Yes that's correct.

The simplest way to remember is just to look at the tail coming out of the fuse holder. It leads directly into the top fuse position hence it's logical that this is where the fuse for the new accessory should go

[Bob Sutton]

On 2/1/2024 at 9:00 PM, Dick_Dastardly said:

Yes that's correct.

The simplest way to remember is just to look at the tail coming out of the fuse holder. It leads directly into the top fuse position hence it's logical that this is where the fuse for the new accessory should go

Hello Dick_Dastardly,

Thanks very much for your advice and input.

Does anyone have any idea what DMC stands for on the fuse box cover located beneath the passenger glove box.

King regards, Bob Sutton.

[flash22]

DCM - Data communications module - it's a glorified mobile phone that lets the car talk to the mothership (Toyota) and perform SOS calls in the event of an accident

[Bob Sutton]

23 hours ago, flash22 said:

DCM - Data communications module - it's a glorified mobile phone that lets the car talk to the mothership (Toyota) and perform SOS calls in the event of an accident

Hello Bob,

Thanks for that clarification.

 

Kind regards, Bob Sutton.

[Dick_Dastardly]

When using a piggy back fuse it's important to ensure you insert it into the fuse box the correct way round.

The side nearest the tail is the "load" and the side furthest from the tail is the "supply"

For any given fusebox pair of slots one of them will show 12v when connected to a multimeter, and the other will not show a reading as it takes the current away to earth.

The "supply" side of the fuse holder should be inserted into the socket showing 12v.

If you put them in the wrong way round then the accessory will still power on, and you'll be fooled into thinking everything is fine. However, if the fuse needs to blow to protect the accessory then the current may take a circuitous route through the other fuse or may not blow at all.

You could also find that the tail lead has power even if no fuse is present, which is a sure sign that something is wrong and the circuit will not protect you as you hoped

There's a video here explaining things

https://youtu.be/8b9CvUMcNQo?si=PfBGzOag9qA8gQ5H

[Bob Sutton]

Hello Graham, thanks for the 'heads up' on the possibility of getting the piggy back fuse holder the wrong way round, therefore, not protecting the dash cam, also the link to the YouTube footage. 

If I remember correctly, from my previous research on this issue, I think I've heard the "supply" side being called the "hot" or 'live" side. I do have a multimeter, so I will use it to check which side, is which.

I have attached a rough (very rough) hand drawn layout, I which hopefully, is the correct interpretation of what's required. Could you please let me know if this is correct.

Kind regards, Bob Sutton.

 

[Dick_Dastardly]

1 hour ago, Bob Sutton said:

Hello Graham, thanks for the 'heads up' on the possibility of getting the piggy back fuse holder the wrong way round, therefore, not protecting the dash cam, also the link to the YouTube footage. 

If I remember correctly, from my previous research on this issue, I think I've heard the "supply" side being called the "hot" or 'live" side. I do have a multimeter, so I will use it to check which side, is which.

I have attached a rough (very rough) hand drawn layout, I which hopefully, is the correct interpretation of what's required. Could you please let me know if this is correct.

Kind regards, Bob Sutton.

 

Diagram seems spot on.

Obviously the lowest fuse you can get away with is the one to go for. Whilst a 5amp will "work" in the sense that it will provide power to the dash cam it may not necessarily be the weakest link in the circuit so a 2 or 3 amp will provide better protection

My Dashcam draws less than 0.5 amp so next time I fit it I'm going to see if I can get away with a 1amp fuse. Might be a bit low so if it keeps blowing then I'll go up to 2 amp. 5amp will be way too high

[Bob Sutton]

1 hour ago, Dick_Dastardly said:

Diagram seems spot on.

Obviously the lowest fuse you can get away with is the one to go for. Whilst a 5amp will "work" in the sense that it will provide power to the dash cam it may not necessarily be the weakest link in the circuit so a 2 or 3 amp will provide better protection

My dashcam draws less than 0.5 amp so next time I fit it I'm going to see if I can get away with a 1amp fuse. Might be a bit low so if it keeps blowing then I'll go up to 2 amp. 5amp will be way too high

Hello Graham, thanks for your reply. I think 2amp is the lowest fuse I have. Thanks for all your input and advice.

Kind regards, Bob Sutton.

[Dick_Dastardly]

1 hour ago, Bob Sutton said:

Hello Graham, thanks for your reply. I think 2amp is the lowest fuse I have. Thanks for all your input and advice.

Kind regards, Bob Sutton.

Pleasure

[alsho]

Use as small a fuse rating as you can, but remember the fuse is there to protect the cable NOT the device. A lot of people don't understand this.