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2015 Auris hybrid ignition/12v battery issue?


raynuss
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Hi, new member here hoping for some advice from fellow Auris owners.

I encountered this fault a couple of weeks ago but it resolved itself almost immediately and has since been in to a Toyota garage for service and MOT which didn't flag any issues. Started the car and drove a short distance, cut the engine to get out and load something into the boot, car now won't start. Dash lights flash on and off rapidly before it cuts out and it won't lock with electronic key fob. Seems like it must be an electrical issue with 12v Battery but just wondered if anyone else has encountered this problem? The first time it happened I came back out to the car 20 minutes later and it started as normal and had been running quite happily on long and short journeys since then.  

Thanks in advance,

Ray

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Don't waste time with those one off things, they happen. Car can throw a code, then never to be seen again after deleting, or suddenly your tachometer shows lower value, or as in my case, it was showing 1k rpm's when it was doing 2k, or just sat on 0 when car was idling, one time, never again, been 1+ year now.

 

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I used a jump starter Battery, to keep the 12v system going, while I took the Battery out and recharged it over night.

in my case I had managed to not close the boot properly and the light  was on for about 3 days. Fortunately the Battery didn't suffer.

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37 minutes ago, Anthony Poli said:

I used a jump starter battery, to keep the 12v system going, while I took the battery out and recharged it over night.

in my case I had managed to not close the boot properly and the light  was on for about 3 days. Fortunately the battery didn't suffer.

Usually these cars has a function to switch off all interior lights including the boot after an hour of been turned on, this is what most likely prevent 12v Battery been drained, however if you keep leaving lights on all the time the Battery will eventually lower its soc and dies. 👍

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you have multimeter you can stick the meter from the fuse box. It should be above 12V without load.  Turn the headlight on, with ignition off, the voltage must me above 11.5 Volt at temp >0C.  If it is less, your Battery is weak, time for getting a new one. if the Battery is below 10V, it will trow a code.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you leave the car for long period of time, it is indeed better if you hook it up with the automatic trickled charger but many sold in Amazon cannot really do it. They often let the Battery run flat.  One of the best is NOCO Genius 5.  The cheapest Chinese unknown brands  below $30 are not good, very noisy, and pump current too large and can boil the Battery

Open circuit below 11.8 V causes permanent damage on the 12V Battery.  Full charge AGM is about 14.4-14.8 V open circuit (not connected to the car).   Mine is already 6 years old and anytime I test when the car is off with Voltmeter is always above 12.3 V even below freezing tempereature. 

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More then a few on here have the CTEX 5 charger. Slow charger, AGM and “standard”, desulphates, reconditions, car and motorcycle, made in Sweden, supplied with many expensive cars ie Ferrari.

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11 minutes ago, Catlover said:

More then a few on here have the CTEX 5 charger. Slow charger, AGM and “standard”, desulphates, reconditions, car and motorcycle, made in Sweden, supplied with many expensive cars ie Ferrari.

Yes I have one of those 

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CTEK 5 and NOCO 5 are very close. They both have regulator on the voltage and current. The only issues with CTEK5 is the heat generation. Makes sure give enough space or cooled properly. Heat reduces the lifespan on the electronics. 

I prefer charging it with 30 minutes running the car if i park the car for more than 1 month. Otherwise, I just unplug the D/C cut fuse for less than 1 month and more than 10 days. 

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