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wife aygo mk1 2011 model . refusing too start.


clactonowner
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it had a minor impact many weeks ago.  no chassis damage juts plastic parts .broken headlight and dented  off side wing.  been trying to get started having replaced broken headlight and plastic parts after insurance claim was sorted.  it cranks ( not that fast) and will give a spark all plugs. even when fuel is sprayed down inlet tract ..it  does nothing! Yet car started and was driven home after collision easily enough. cannot find any broken /chaffed/damaged wires etc and we have fuel being pumped up to fuel rail .  at a loss what to check now. will do a compression test later in week but think thats Ok and engine was NOT damaged at all.not even radiator leak!  used a diagnostic check in OBD11 port and 'no fault codes' . so given we have compression ( to be confirmed) a healthy spark. and fuel supply .. it ought to damn well start!  logic says either timing chain has broken and we have no compression ( would crank much much faster and be noisy or possible valve impact) though we know crank sensor must be working to give a spark ..I think there might be a cam sensor ? if that failed would it put timing of spark so far out ?that it cannot ignite fuel in cylinder.  any suggestion other than set fore to it are welcome.  wife is thinking of scrapping it if no solution food very soon.sham was decent car with NO body rot. new exhaust pipe and sensor fitted few months ago as was new front wheel bearings both sides and offside control arm and joint too.  so mechanical and bodywork wise far too good to scrap. help....!

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Can you hear the fuel pump prime ? Are they plugs wet after cranking ? Stick a new Battery on it, low voltage under crank will cause electrical issues

has the car been jump started ? If so, check the fusible link in the front of the fuse box

https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/200256-another-non-starter/?do=findComment&comment=1575987

https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/200248-2006-aygo-engine-conked-out-why/

When you say no  codes does it actually connect to the ECU and find the vin ?

 

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as far as aware it talks to car . come back and says no codes found.  checked all fuses =OK cranks slow even with new Battery and another connected .. suspect starter on way out.  cant hear pump prime but when cranking with pipe to fuel rail off..it puts out a lot of fuel!

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Slow cranking with a new Battery suggests either a problem with the starter motor or the connections between the Battery and the starter motor - have you checked these 3 connections that make up the circuit between the Battery and starter motor?

- battery to body

- battery to starter motor

- engine to body

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Anything else not working ? What side was the damage on ?

 

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2 hours ago, flash22 said:

Anything else not working ? What side was the damage on ?

 

front offside .minor impact only wing has dent rest is plastic damage eg washer bottle .headlight and front apron with inner splash guard. car started after impact easily drove home ( was not  aware might be illegal with damaged front apron and  headlight damaged! ) parked up and managed oars removed. replaced with used parts ( front bumper /apron not yet fitted)  impact mainly on wheel of both cars ( mini)  stood for weeks waiting  insurance being sorted . tried starting = no joy and slow cranking. jump start =same. checked OBD1 port fr fault codes= none. checked fuses =OK . checked due supply ( full tank) = fuel supply good when disconnected to fuel rail and cranking over . check all 3 spark plugs = Ok decent spark. tried fuel mist into intake when cranking with new Battery and another in situ ( sort of jump start) still cranks wee bit slower but carrie son cranking for quiet a while until batteries start draining down. so have fuel .have a spark. check leads .no damage noted and impact was nowhere near engine only damaging lead to washer bottle ( replaced with new lead /connections)  as have spark aware crank sensor is OK . assume there might be a cam sensor ? but cant check that with a  diagnostic code reader. going to do a compression test soon but suspect that will be normal. ( why would it not be) .at a loss at moment and wife has no car.. end rest might be to try and see it for spares or repair but it would need trailering /towing so probably only get back what I have spend on replacement parts 😞 hopefully a £10 over would b nice lol at least get a drink .shame as body work is perfect apart from the front offside wing and new front wheel bearings fitted .new exhaust down pipe and bracket/sensor HEGO .offside control arm and joint. Battery. and still has MOT !  annoying to not be able to get to reason it wont fire up! 

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23 hours ago, flash22 said:

Replace the crank sensor

if crank sensor was faulty we don't get a spark! checked connections =good.  and car was  working just switched off as normal but not restarted for weeks!  still have spark and fuel .. can only assume timing is wrong.. no idea if it has a cam sensor or other affecting timing. engine now cold ..was started when hot so maybe a combination of things. not worth towing into a dealer as hourly rate and parts would easily exceed any value in an old car such as this.  will advertise it in a couple of weeks  for spares or repair. would make a decent runabout for a student or trainee mechanic ? put shows damage before removing parts .bent wing. broken headlight. squashed washer bottle  and front fender/apron damaged ..not worth salvaging/repair. no damage to wiring looms with exception washer bottle where 1 lead was damaged ( fixed) 

189E4FB7-D2B0-49E7-AEFD-B41A39118C46.jpeg

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removed each plug and coil assy fo reach cylinder and cranked engine .all 3 gave a regular hot spark . removed fuel supply line to fuel rain and cranked , got lot of fuel supply. even sprayed fuel in to intake and left 1 plug out..cranked over .  got a bit of a hot blast when that empty cylinder blew fuel out and spark ignited it!  so can only think spark timing is for some reason way off .possibly sparking when exhaust valves are open?  cant get live data readings as its a generic diagnostic tool but did 'talk' to car with ignition ON and pulled ufo a no fault code page.

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So you've got fuel and spark but do you have compression?

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If it was running fine, I can only see it being electrical

does the throttle body open and close with the throttle pedal pushed ?

A stuck VVTi solenoid will screw with the valve timing

do the brake lights work ?

 

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i take it you have checked IG1 and IG2 fuses located behind the instrument cluster

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no workshop manual .so unaware where to find fuses mentioned ?  throttle body works with pedal presses. fuel is getting into cylinder chambers as after bit of cranking and remove a plug its 'wet' . will check compressions next and have rechecked OBD11 diagnostic sport .shows no faults but a 'pending fault' code I didnt write down.. but at time of checking says crank sensor 'out of range'. I assume possible malfunction? 

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9 hours ago, clactonowner said:

no workshop manual .so unaware where to find fuses mentioned ? 

Haynes do a workshop manual for the Mk1 petrol like yours.

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thanks but have decided it might just sell it for spares or repair and cut losses . as getting nowhere .

 

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9 hours ago, clactonowner said:

at time of checking says crank sensor 'out of range'. I assume possible malfunction? 

 

6 minutes ago, clactonowner said:

thanks but have decided it might just sell it for spares or repair and cut losses . as getting nowhere .

 

That's a shame as it sounds like you may have located the problem.

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trying to talk wife into letting me buy a crank sensor .at Monet she is adamant ive wasted enough time  and cash on a lost cause.😬

 

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As others have mentioned, are the basic 12v electrics OK delivering good power to the starter etc.?

The slow cranking bothers me - if the power to the starter is insufficient then it may well be the same for the ignition system. Remember that it's much easier to produce a good spark at atmosphere than it is under compression, so testing plugs outside of the cylinder is by no means conclusive. Any main earth connections disturbed as a result of the accident damage?

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16 hours ago, Red_Corolla said:

The slow cranking bothers me

Same here, for me this is the first thing to solve, and then a new crank sensor.

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update. had to disconnect Battery as horn kept sounding! reconnected .horn behaving?   tried swap crank sensor form same model car and year .both worked in other car but neither in mine. still have spark and lots of fuel ( wet plugs_)  compression a bit low and cranking is not really that fast.  is there an immobiliser I am missing ? was suggested other are ig 1 and 2 fuses under dashboard? not able to locate these. If they are fitted any way to see where to find ? all fuses under hood are good. engine earth is also ok.  getting silly here with car with compression .gas and spark just refusing to obey  physics and fire!  can only assume  spark is somehow very retarded  /advanced? as to not be able to initiate  any firing. 

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Fuses are located under the instrument cowl, the IG relay may have been knocked loose located on the drivers side up high in the dash

934832063_Aygomk1relaylocal.thumb.jpg.6c8d20d936a3406ef871581bc956efa9.jpg

 

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A jammed vvti solenoid can throw the timing - it's located to the rear left of the head as you look at the engine

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many thanks info and assist . thus far compression =ok spark=ok fuel =ok ALL fuses =ok cranks but no start 😞.  note on video link posted ( man thanks was very helpful) removing dash cover to get access to fuses. plus showed fuse cover removed under bonnet .I saw same as mine but a small red 'box' (fuse?) wa snot fitted on my car .I assume that powers something else!  as car has not had anything removed and was running before and after collision .just simply left a few weeks  an no refuses to start!  will see if I can locate  the  VVTI ? and assess what to do . wife not happy car sitting in drive and simply wants rid off but I\d really love to get it started even if we get rid off it later. again many thanks all offering advise.

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