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wife aygo mk1 2011 model . refusing too start.


clactonowner
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stick a new Battery on it, if it was low and the cold got it, it may not be holding a charge/current, the Battery may be new but it doesn't mean it's any good, take it back and get it tested

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c heckled VVTI and it works fine .cleaned it though didn't need it. wondering if theres  an immobiliser issue ? key isn't working since Battery was changed other week but won't sync. ( despite instructions on web ).  so min dealer job  or sell I guess, 😞

 

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If it was an immobilizer it will log a code or flash the red key light also it would cut the fuel pump and kill spark, can you hear/feel the fuel pump prime

if you are tech-savvy, get yourself a mini VCI with the techstream clone (there is plenty of info about on how to set it up) - (assuming you have a laptop)

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2 hours ago, clactonowner said:

wondering if theres  an immobiliser issue ? key isn't working since battery was changed other week but won't sync. ( despite instructions on web ).

The immobiliser prevents any fuelling (I know from experience of leaving the immobiliser chip out when I did a key case swap).

The Battery in the key is for remote locking only and won't have any effect on the immobiliser.

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Ok thanks.  so still a mystery why no starting. oh well back to drawing board . looked at mini VCI an apart from not wanting high tech additions that might only get used once ..( have a GENDAN diagnostic  tool I use already) though it would give far more info.  I think more suitable for technicians not man in street. thanks for suggestion though.

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A thought sprung in to my head, while looking at another car issue, no start, slow crank - a bad engine ground or Battery ground - simple test use a jumper cable between the negative on the Battery and the engine

a bad ground will cause all sorts of electrical issues

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update .car sold to a dealer very cheap plus replacement  colour matched bumper ( cost me £265 with postage) sold bumper for £120. and car not much more ! real deal for dealer .  he texted 2day saying what fault with car was as had it sorted . seems slow cranking and electrics ( non starting) playing up (horn going off randomly) was due to partially seized AC unit and faulty alternator.  so at least a resolution. 💥

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We all live and learn, anything to appease SWMBO - thanks for the update

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On 1/20/2022 at 4:31 PM, flash22 said:

A thought sprung in to my head, while looking at another car issue, no start, slow crank - a bad engine ground or battery ground - simple test use a jumper cable between the negative on the battery and the engine

a bad ground will cause all sorts of electrical issues

That's why I wanted the Battery voltage at crank. Too high =  poor circuit to the starter, Too low = weak Battery or excessive load. I generally consider between 9 and 11v to be in the right ball park. TBH I would have ended up pointing the finger at the Battery and getting it wrong!

Glad it's all taken care of for the OPs sake.

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